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Queenz

Could I have a faulty temp sensor?

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I'm on watercooling and for some reason I'm getting some really high temps at idle. Here are the specs:

 

Intel Core i5 2500K

Gigabyte G1 Sniper2 Motherboard

Corsair Vengeance RAM

ASUS GTX570

 

Cooling:

 

Heatkiller waterblock

MCP655 D5 pump with bitspower dress kit

EK Multioption res

1/2" 3/4" ID Tygon tubing

Aquacomputer airplex radiator

artic silver 5 thermal grease

Scythe slipstream fans for radiator

 

Ok here is the issue on idle I'm at about 52c and load is about 70c. I'm overclocked to 4.4ghz with 1.35 vcore. For some reason in windows using coretemp or realtemp I'm getting these high readings. But in the BIOS it says my CPU temp is between 27c-33c idle. That's about an 10c difference in temps compared to what software is showing me. Could I have a faulty temp sensor? This is my first Gigabyte board so I'm not sure how reliable these are :dunno: . I just built this system and these temps don't sound right. I've used a similar watercooling setup before on a different motherboard and didn't have this problem. I've taken off the waterblock and reapplied thermal grease so many times and made sure the block is having good contact. I even switched the flow around.

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I don't think so - your overclock is actually pretty high, which would make 70C a pretty normal temperature under synthetic (I'm assuming that it's synthetic and not just while running WinRAR or something) load. Also keep in mind that idling in bios is nowhere near the same thing as idling on your desktop - there are tiny little things your CPU has to work on in an idle desktop environment, and that's enough to get your temps up a little.

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I'd try reseating your waterblock and reapplying thermal paste. Also, that voltage is a little high for 4.4 GHz, so you could try dropping that a little bit. In any case, that's a little warm for that kind of OC, so I'd check for any human error before blaming sensors.

 

Edit: Totally didn't read the last bit about you reseating the block :lol:

Edited by iskout

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I have done this twice so Ill ask if you did this. Did you remove the "remove this before installing" cover on the water block before installing it??

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I respectfully disagree with Tkrow.

 

1.35 volts for a 4.4ghz OC is not a lot, and while TKrow was right about the difference in idle between the OS and the BIOS, I would expect an idle temp of no more than 36 C and a load temp of about 60C. So there is DEFINITELY something funky with your temps. Don't make fun of this suggestion because I already know it is a stupid one, but it did help me for some reason.......have you tried uninstalling and reinstalling core temp? On my system, it lowered my temps by about 5C. I think my situation was just a fluke, but we could hope your situation is a fluke too.

 

Other than that, it is possible you could have jacked up temp gauges. It really has nothing to do with the Gigabyte company or the particular model of board that you have though. It sounds more like you have been a victim of Murphy's Law rather than suffering from poor quality control.

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One thing you can do is touch the water block to see if its hot. Touch it at idle. If its hot, then its actually 50 C. If not, faulty or reseat the waterblock.

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Ok I reseated the block like a million times and that helped nothing. So I mounted the radiator outside of the case instead of inside like it was before and the temps dropped about 5-6 degrees on idle and load. But for some odd reason something doesn't seem or feel right still. On my old i7 860 setup I was getting 29 idle and like 45 load. Here is my setup on load and temps. I'm at 4.5ghz @ 1.320 on vdroop:

 

97288014.png

 

I have a question. I'm using a nickle/chrome plated version of the heatkiller block. Could the reason my temps would be so poor is because the block base is not copper and that its nickel/chrome plated?

Edited by Queenz

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I have a question. I'm using a nickle/chrome plated version of the heatkiller block. Could the reason my temps would be so poor is because the block base is not copper and that its nickel/chrome plated?

 

geez queenz, i'm with tkrow21,... bro 4.5 aint no joke, is a real decent oc, and is bound to generate around 50c in 24/7 operation,...have ya tried angling a pusher fan at the boards socket and vrm's banks area just so there's some good circulation around the serious business of your mobo...??,....you have the heater on in the house ..?? what's ambient like ...?

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Nope no heat on in the house and if it was on I keep it low. I understand 4.5ghz is a high OC but on my old watercooling setup on my i7 I was getting 29 idle and 45 something load. I actually thought my temps on this would be better because my old setup was 45nm and my new cpu is 32nm. Wouldn't a smaller die = less heat generated even when OCed? It's actually runing hotter

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The difference in temps from bios to software, or from the i7 to 2500 sys is driver related. From what I understand the mobo has a monitor chip which bios access for sys info and to access bios through the os needs a driver that uses microsoft wmi tech so when the driver doesn't use the tech the reporting is off. It is a software issue. Try the mobo manufacturer software perhaps this software will be coded for the particular board. This is also the reason I trust the bios over the software (monitoring or oc'ing).

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The HeatKiller blocks have a plate inside with little slits in it. I know the only time I ever had a temp problem with mine is when these slits became obstructed.

Once I took apart the block and cleaned it, been good to go ever since. Right now it's folding at 100% (i7 2600K @ 4.6) and maxes at 57c. You may want to take your block apart and check.

post-65878-0-91257300-1327245934_thumb.jpg

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