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DrDigitized2

Its finally done! Pics and Benchmarks soon to come.

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You can set up the ssd and hdd in BIOS.

I am thinking about getting one ssd to try that in my new set up

As far as I know the z68 chipset on 1155 boards has srt feature.

8 gb ram is plenty but if you want more it isn't going to hurt

Edited by Kingfisher

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there's a few questions I had. Why do you guys only recommend 8 gigs instead of 16. Is it the cost difference or do you just not need that much right now? The Mobo that Tjj226_Angel Recommends (I like it as well) only has 4 slots. So wouldn't be a waist to use up the space with 2x4gig. Then I could only max out my ram at 24gigs instead of the 32 the board can handle. Also, when choosing memory do these numbers really matter that much? 2133(OC) / 1866(OC) / 1600 / 1333 / 1066? The cost difference is huge.

 

The SSD and the HDD, Do you have to do anything special to make them work together with the SSD being the cache? Or does it already do it on its own. Also does that take away from you storing software on the SSD? Hope that was easy enough to understand.

 

For gaming you only really need 8 gigs at max. You could probably get away with 4 and still be very happy. You can put 8 more gb in there if that is your choice, but you would see more benefit in spending the money on higher quality/faster RAM than you would on more of it. The people who need 16gb of the stuff are primarily video editors.

 

Your board, and 99% of 1155 socket boards have 4 slots. Just ignore the other two slots and save yourself some money.

 

When you buy ram, 2 things. 1: buy from Mushkin or Corsiar. I know there are several other companies that are "fine", but I only trust Corsair and Mushkin for my ram and for plenty good reasons ;) Number 2: it isn't just the speeds you should be looking at. If you go take a look at the product specs of RAM it will say that it runs at 1866, but below that it will tell you the timings of the RAM. It will look like 8-8-8-24. Lower timings equals better performance, and so does a higher memory speed. So you want to find a balance. The average spec of any memory meant for system building is 1600mhz with 9-9-9-24 timings. To simplify things for you (because trust me RAM does start to get complicated) I really recomend you stick with the ram I picked out for you. The fact that it is 1600mz with 8-8-8-24 timings and there are claims that people have overclocked it to 1866mhz with 8-8-8-24 timings makes it a real gem for gaming. You can not go wrong with that RAM at all.

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Thanks for the info. I will stick to your recommendation. I checked out BattleField 3 and they only needed 4 gigs max. So as far as I can tell. 8 will suffice.

 

Also. I checked out other Cases and found one that I liked and wanted your guys opinions.Its the Thermaltake Level 10 GT LCS. It would take care of 2 things on my list. Getting a good solid case that I can carry, lockup, clean easy, and has lots of nice features. The second thing it would take care of is water cooling.

 

Let me know what you guys think.

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Thanks for the info. I will stick to your recommendation. I checked out BattleField 3 and they only needed 4 gigs max. So as far as I can tell. 8 will suffice.

 

Also. I checked out other Cases and found one that I liked and wanted your guys opinions.Its the Thermaltake Level 10 GT LCS. It would take care of 2 things on my list. Getting a good solid case that I can carry, lockup, clean easy, and has lots of nice features. The second thing it would take care of is water cooling.

 

Let me know what you guys think.

 

Well, I really don't know about that one. I have always thought of systems like that to be a bit fishy if you know what I mean. I would rather get the case on its own, and buy the kit and install it myself just so I can know that everything is done correctly with the right parts. The main reason I say that is because of the price. It seems way to low to be a full water loop.

 

Honestly though, I guarantee you that you could build the water cooling loop on your own. Just get a 150 USD case and a 150 or so USD water cooling kit and build it yourself. 300 dollars verses a 450 dollar assembled water cooled case? The labor is not worth 150 extra bucks. Otherwise I would be a rich man :biggrin:

 

If you are really uncomfortable with putting it together yourself then try these cases and see what you like.

 

 

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14189/cst-1229/Custom_Cooler_Master_HAF-X_Full_Tower_Liquid_Cooled_Case_-_Push_Pull_Edition_XSPC_Rasa_RS360_Installed.html?tl=g1c2#blank

 

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11648/cst-1056/Custom_Cooler_Master_COSMOS_S_Aluminum_Alloy_Full_Tower_Chassis_RC-1100-KKN1-GP_-_Chassis_Powder_Coating.html?tl=g1c2

 

And if you really want to drop some money

 

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14345/cst-1239/Custom_Silverstone_RAVEN_RV02_Full_Tower_Case_w_Window_-_Liquid_Cooled_Helix_Edition.html?id=FUa6SBYt#blank

 

 

Here is the thing you should know. You can use a case again and again and again. So even if in 3 years you need a whole new system, you can still use the same case. I HIGHLY recommend you find a case you just absolutley love, and figure out the water cooling later. The water cooling is also going to be another thing that you will keep along with your case, so make sure you don't skimp on water cooling whenever possible.

 

Find a way to accomplish both of those things and you will have a pc housing system that will last you forever.

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Wife's build, today, reference parts and pricing, newegg, USA, New Years clearance sale

power supplies : Corsair CX 430 $40 before $10 rebate

OCZ ZS 550 $65 before $25 rebate

Antec NEO ECO 620C $60 before $10 rebate

Antec Earthwatts EA 500D $$58 before $8 rebate

CPU : intel I3 2120 $120 for gaming this 3.3 processor, dual core hyper threading, is near as good as the I5 4 core unless doing a lot of multitasking.

Possible case Lian LI Lancool First Knight PC-K9WX Black $100.

 

After Christmas sale, newegg : motherboard Asus P8Z68-M Pro $120 ($5 discount and free shipping) full upgrade path quality motherboard

Video card HIS HD 6870 DDR5 1GB HDCP $150 before $20 MIR

Heatsink Cooler Master Hyper 212 + $20 with discount code EMCJHHA55 (from $30)

PSU Corsair CX600 V2 $60 (from $70) with discount code EMCJHHA58

DVD Burner Samsung SH-222 BB/BEBE OEM $16

 

Lian Li 20% off sale ends 1/4/12, newegg Lian Li Lancool PC-K58W Black /with Window $80 - 20% = $64

 

Every day NZXT Source 210 Elite computer case white/black or black, 2 fans, 1 front USB 3.0 is $50

Corsair Vengeance 2x 4GB 1600 CAS9 1.5V is $49

 

If you do not like the I3 2120 at $120, I5 2500K, the unlocked overclockable 4 core is discounted from $220 to $205, locked I5s are about $180

 

Flooding in Thailand has driven Hard Drive prices way up, they may come down by March, they may not.

 

So without operating system, office, build cost is about $480 shipped without Hard Drive before rebates using $50 case and I3 2120 and possibly more video card than necessary.

Figure $120 for a HDD (till prices come down, 1 gb 7200 Hitachi most likely) and $120 for Windows 7 Proffessional OEM = $720

 

Build is easily upgradable $90-100 more buys an I5 2500K. Save a 100 if you have operating system. Only weakness is one PCIE X 16 slot, which is fine. You can add case fans if needed. Blu Ray Burners are about $50-$100 more OEM and require sortware for playback.

 

Upgrade the motherboard to the ASUS Maximus P8Z68 Gene-Z (Gen 3) $190 +/- and the I5 2500K and you have your build. Add the I7 2600 or 2700 if you like.

 

SSDs are not my strong point and they are in flux. Intell, Crucial, and Samsung with a couple others are argueably best and safest to use and own.

 

Faster memory ADD ABOUT $50, for minimal gain.

 

With Sandy Bridge I do not see the need of extreme cooling unless extreme overclocking is intended. air coolers $50-100, ANTEC 620 water cooler, should be fine.

 

YOU might want the new HD 7970 Video Card though it is reputed to be loud. The GeForce GTX 560 TI 448 is reputed to be close to the 570 for around $400-450.

 

Rosewill Capstone power supplies are well regarded on jonnyguru if you want more power.

Edited by ohldboy

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^^^^..........You do realize that the OP said he wouldn't be doing this until after the holidays right? Even still the right I put together for his wife is better. A 4 core APU with hybrid crossfire with a 6850 will give the wife a better gaming experience for less. Plus she is only playing WoW. It isn't like that it CPU intensive or anything.

 

You are also breaking a cardinal rule. NEVER EVER EVER EVER skimp on the power supply. I think she will need 650 W in case she needs an upgrade or two. I skimped on my wattage and now for me to go 2 way SLI GTX 560 Ti I would need to get another video card and an 850W PSU :cry: Realistically, she would only ever need 600W, but I like to give any extra wattage to overclocking stuff :cool2:

 

The CM 212 I like a lot though. Good find. Hopefully a nice little sale on some noctua fans and that little thing will be a monster ;)

 

Why don't people understand they can get linux or windows 7 for free? Linux being the legal of the two :ph34r:

 

Hitatchi drives suck. They have one of the highest failure rates in the hard drive industry. The seagate ones I suggested are about the same price and are much better for read and write times. :thumbsup:

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My Intent is to illustrate the minimum cost before extras.

My experience is price what you have to have, then you know your budget for luxuries.

I have no problem with $400-800 cases except I cannot afford them.

Hitachi I believe manufactures their Hard Drives in China, and appear least price affected by the Thailand flooding. Therefore most likely to find in stock at an only outrageous price.

Everyone has favorite Hard Drives and Disappoint stories. Generally I find Samsung the most consistently highly regarded and price/performance reccommendation.

Seagate is discontinuing to produce "GREEN" HDDs, WD "Greens" have a bad reputation. Good article on why "GREEN" is more hype than substance.

I have used WD Blacks and Blues, Seagate, Samsung, and Hitachi. No complaints. Maybe lucky.

 

Most people overestimate power needed. Without a firm choice of Video Card(s) it is difficult to guess exactly. For the wifes build, WOW being less than demanding, a single card motherboard is possible and the power supplies appropriate.

 

I would like to see them both on Asus Maximus IV Gene-Z /GEN3 at $200 each as these are a "best" price performance point. There are other boards -$80 to +$100 but this one includes all likely must have features and performance.

Just as I5 2500 CPUs are all thats necessary.

 

I realize this is OverclockersCLUB. but I do not see the OP ready to risk his CPU and more overclocking. Which puts us in Antec 620 (Amazon $70 at the moment) or say a Silver Arrow or even Thermalright Macho ($50 about- air). The CM Hyper 212+ is good for 4.2-4.4 overclock for most people (depending on chip, case, fans, etc).

 

I am not here to denigate a top line Overclockers rig. I just feel options at the other extreme should be mentioned.

Water cooling loops involve time effort money and upkeep. They can be satisfying in an "this is the best way", just lets not go too far on $1500 builds.

 

The Wife's, for me, would be a trial build since it is to a purpose and known performance desire. With that operational the second build should be much better "grounded" in funds available and performance.

 

I hope this makes sense, not trying to trample dreams here, just covering alternatives. $400-500 for a 256 gb SSD. Possibly an IPS monitor.

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Hitatchi drives suck. They have one of the highest failure rates in the hard drive industry. The seagate ones I suggested are about the same price and are much better for read and write times. :thumbsup:

 

I've had several hitachi sata drives and I can honestly tell you I've dropped kicked butchered and battered them over the past 5 yrs and they still work great.

Edited by Kingfisher

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I realize that there is a BIG difference. But I just cant justify the extra $500.00. $500 can get you so much more if you put it into something that makes it run faster, cooler, and more storage.

Not to mention things like a $500 display, New gaming keyboard, or a new gaming mouse.

 

Just my opinion but would you spend that kind of cash on a case?

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I realize that there is a BIG difference. But I just cant justify the extra $500.00. $500 can get you so much more if you put it into something that makes it run faster, cooler, and more storage.

Not to mention things like a $500 display, New gaming keyboard, or a new gaming mouse.

 

Just my opinion but would you spend that kind of cash on a case?

 

What are you talking about? When I said it was too cheap, I was referring to the case AND water cooling that it came with. I think it is too cheap because for it to be a water cooled case, it would at least cost the price of the case itself so 300 bucks ish. Plus a water cooling loop for about 430. Plus labor brings it up to about 600. 600 is what the cost should be of the level 10 case when water cooled. Instead it costs something like 350. THAT price difference is fishy. I was never referring to the full case.

 

Also, if you like the case, then get it. The case is a great case. It is just that water cooled case seems like it wouldn't come with a proper water cooling loop, so I would recommend you do that yourself.

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