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GabrielT

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i'd rather stick with the proper speaker connections, OP i guess you might be thinking to "bi-amp,bi-wire" your speakers?

nobody does it with head units alone, single/multiple power amps setups will do it but with a different approach/connections.

you are pushing your system into trouble, yes heat is normal but how hot it is to the touch? your head unit's amp is at struggle there for sure.

 

let's wait for Stonerboy's comment on this.

:lol:

 

Someone remembers what my job used to be.

 

Listen to Waco and don't do that with a headunit, It may run fine for a while but you will kill it.

 

Also do what I have done in the past cheap 300watt rms 4ch amp powered by an equally cheap cm 500watt PSU, No idea why you used the Head unit the cheap amp and psu combo would have been better and you could just use 3.5mm to rca jacks and set up proper 2.1 with a powered car sub. Estimated Cost for decent parts ~$300 for 150watt rms sub and 75watt rms to left and right speakers. Pure power and when shopping right very nice sound.

 

I have wired up a headunit and if you wan't can provide you with a wiring diagram that will allow it to keep it's memory even when off provided your psu is just plugged into the wall. Mind you you will void your PSU warranty if you follow my modding instructions for it :lol:

 

Gab you have a peak to peak of 310watts, such wonderful advertising by JVC :pfp:

 

Well this doesn't seem to be occurring with my setup but I noticed the head unit is getting rather hot to the touch at the back. It always used to get hot in my car hooked up to 4 speakers but I could never actually touch the back part until now.

That is natural the back of a headunit is just a massive aluminium lump that is a passive cooler for the entire thing, as mentioned zero airflow back there in a car so worry not about the temp.

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At that price grab another pair and run them on the rear channels :) then twice the noise :thumbsup:

 

Well I would but it's plenty loud for a small room but with speaker boxes it will be around $60 dollars.

 

:lol:

 

Someone remembers what my job used to be.

 

Listen to Waco and don't do that with a headunit, It may run fine for a while but you will kill it.

 

Also do what I have done in the past cheap 300watt rms 4ch amp powered by an equally cheap cm 500watt PSU, No idea why you used the Head unit the cheap amp and psu combo would have been better and you could just use 3.5mm to rca jacks and set up proper 2.1 with a powered car sub. Estimated Cost for decent parts ~$300 for 150watt rms sub and 75watt rms to left and right speakers. Pure power and when shopping right very nice sound.

 

I have wired up a headunit and if you wan't can provide you with a wiring diagram that will allow it to keep it's memory even when off provided your psu is just plugged into the wall. Mind you you will void your PSU warranty if you follow my modding instructions for it :lol:

 

Gab you have a peak to peak of 310watts, such wonderful advertising by JVC :pfp:

 

 

That is natural the back of a headunit is just a massive aluminium lump that is a passive cooler for the entire thing, as mentioned zero airflow back there in a car so worry not about the temp.

 

 

 

I got it wired up properly now, no worries on buring it out. I have no desire to void my warenty so I can set up presets and what have you. I adjust my sound card to do what I wanted on the stock settings. I de-stupided the wires lol, now its not hot at all.

 

About what JCV does with their 310 max power what have you. I know that its not 310watts all the time, 310 watts at a specific frequency for very short time. Almost all speakers are rated like this, some more fantastically than others. Kenwood, JL Audio, Alpine and other high end speakers do it too. If anything Kenwood are the real exaggerators with one set of 6x9's claiming 1000 watts peak power with 240watts rms. http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-Kfc-6993ps-Combined-Powerful-Five-way/dp/B003MPC76K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1322635268&sr=8-3

 

Atleast there isn't a huge PMPO rating of 2000watts or some crap on them like Frisby Computer speakers have.

 

It's not like I really want to spend a tone of money on this. I have a small powered sub I want to hook up tomorrow ounce I find the proper cables to run it of the head unit.

 

Keep in mind I live in a quiet apartment and I actually like my older neighbors I live near so these put out plenty of power for now.

Edited by GabrielTessin

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Actually it's never at 310watts thats the value of the peak to peak of the sin wave if it's really hitting that my 750watt silverstone psu can hit 2100watts from the wall at times. Not happening :lol: however this marketing is rampant in the car audio industry at least for the lower to mid end gear.

 

Actually I can revamp things but it requires cutting up the 24pin atx power cable so it will become useless unless you can manage to get a female socket for it?

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Actually it's never at 310watts thats the value of the peak to peak of the sin wave if it's really hitting that my 750watt silverstone psu can hit 2100watts from the wall at times. Not happening :lol: however this marketing is rampant in the car audio industry at least for the lower to mid end gear.

 

Actually I can revamp things but it requires cutting up the 24pin atx power cable so it will become useless unless you can manage to get a female socket for it?

 

Every speaker company at some point claims an un-reachable peak. These are JVC's highest end consumer coaxial speakers at the moment, low end by other manufacturers standards but they really do sound great. I could have had kenwoods but I would have needed an amp to make them shine. These would probably be better with an amp but I am going to stick with what I have at the moment.

 

Here's the thing. I am running this of of my main rigs power supply. No cutting of the wires thank you.

Edited by GabrielTessin

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As for building a powered sub I already gave that some thought, kenwood 10", MTX Amp, ported box, cheap psu. $230 it would be way over kill and I am not a fan of over kill bass. I would prefer a small pre built powered sub for $100 less. not in the budget right now. I'm poor.

 

Besides I already have a little powered sub to mess around with. I really never get a chance to crank my music anyways.

Edited by GabrielTessin

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Every speaker company at some point claims an un-reachable peak. These are JVC's highest end consumer coaxial speakers at the moment, low end by other manufacturers standards but they really do sound great. I could have had kenwoods but I would have needed an amp to make them shine. These would probably be better with an amp but I am going to stick with what I have at the moment.

 

Here's the thing. I am running this of of my main rigs power supply. No cutting of the wires thank you.

Okay fair enough and no running an amp you will likely overdraw the PSU. No dead in the water old PSU with an unwanted PSU. I know you won't but if you feel like a splurg, or if someone else does then this Cm PSU for $30 and this Orion 4ch for $110($140 off).

 

JVC high end hasn't got anything on what I wish to buy shortly (hertz splits and an audioson sound processor), unfortunately even with direct contact with a vip buyer that can hand me the gear at cost price the splits I am looking at will set me back $150 a pair. Also those aren't their "highest" end co-ax speakers, they have some 4 way 6x9s (not really anything much to talk of and would sound the same as what you got. Personally no JVC for me ever not even their "arsenal" stuff. They overpriced at their high end (for the performance it offers) but their low end is decent very cheap upgrades on stock gear.

 

 

A little unrelated but I want to ramble on about a few small points.

 

Co-axial is nowhere near high end. Even low range splits are better than the best coax products from the same manufacture. However as you pointed out it is easy to work with.

6x9s are just a gimmick for customers that want a decent punch for not much money, the companies couldn't care less about them. Just keep making them because they sell well to the masses and installers like me hate them for it because we need to keep telling people that come in with their cheap 6x9s they bought that "no we can't install that directly into your parcel shelf or we will make your car un-roadworthy. You need to put them in these boxes, if you bought 6" speakers we could and in your doors your joking right? your doors only take 4" speakers. yes you have a small car couldn't you see that? Come with me into the shop and I will help you find some decent replacement speakers. try and sell those ones you already have." Yes we have on many occasions said this to customers :pfp:

You want biggest punch 6-8" dedicated woofers with possibly a 4" mid ad tweet or just tweeter. Although that is extreme however some semi decent splits massive improvement on similarly price co-ax (doesn't matter if its 2, 3 or even 4 way co-ax it still sounds bad to me).

 

/ramble

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My car actually does take 6x9 component speakers rather than Coaxial from the factory oddly enough. It has the mids up front and I just realized the other day that there are ear level tweeters mounted in the dash O.O

 

I have been in many cars with very nice/ghetto, terrible, and down right insane speaker setups and I have learned one thing. Everyone like different things. I like clean sound and this setup really does deliver.

Edited by GabrielTessin

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My car actually does take 6x9 component speakers rather than Coaxial from the factory oddly enough. It has the mids up front and I just realized the other day that there are ear level tweeters mounted in the dash O.O

 

I have been in many cars with very nice/ghetto, terrible, and down right insane speaker setups and I have learned one thing. Everyone like different things. I like clean sound and this setup really does deliver.

You drive a ford right? Are you sure it's not their stupid stock 6x8s. Either way you can just manage to get a 6x9 in those doors with some creativity.

 

Yes your right about that, personal preference makes a huge difference.

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You drive a ford right? Are you sure it's not their stupid stock 6x8s. Either way you can just manage to get a 6x9 in those doors with some creativity.

 

Yes your right about that, personal preference makes a huge difference.

 

Nope 2002 Buick at the moment.

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