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akis_56

2 gtx 580 gainward 3gb and 1 palit 3gb wont work in 3 way sli

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That is good to hear. Hope it doesn't end up costing you too much.

It sounds like you have some pretty old wiring in your house.

 

 

10 years ago are the cables .

but i think some device in one of this three rooms is grounding ( thats the way we say it ?)

to put a circuit only for my room :P

i will ask him to put a circuit only for my room :P

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10 years ago are the cables .

but i think some device in one of this three rooms is grounding ( thats the way we say it ?)

to put a circuit only for my room :P

i will ask him to put a circuit only for my room :P

That is a good idea fresh cables individual circuit. So if things go wrong you knows it's components ups psu ect.

 

Yes grounding would be right to say and that would cause The breaker to trip. If it is the case it would be good to try and work out what is showering out.

 

Again good luck with it and hopefully you can use your rig to the max soon.

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Why are you sing a UPS in the first place. just judging by the sise of the ups i would guess there is something like two motorcycle (12V) batteries in it which gets you to 24V total. If you are pulling anywhere near 1.4KW (about the max AC power draw on you psu) that will get you somewhere around 1400/24=60A from each battery. Not even high performance car batteries can supply such a high current for more than a few minutes without seriously overheating, so the small batteries within your UPS can not handle such a load for long (if at all), this will get the power circuitry overloaded inside the UPS. If the power circut is overloaded it will not supply clean power to the computer (a lot of voltage spikes), and probably blow your powersupply.

 

On top of all this you have cheap wiring in your house, which probably is already close to overloading. and on top of that you add the efficiency losses of the ups (80-95% effective) and the powersupply (85-90% effective) and the power draw of a seriously overclocked processor and three very high performance GPUs you are probably looking at a total load of your wall socket to be close to 1400W plus all the screens (at least 30W each) and other perhepials (sound system, tv (~200W), all the other stuff in the other rooms), so its no wonder that the fuse/switch gets tripped, and each time that happens the UPS gets overloaded and it is possible that it and the PSU take serious damage, and if they do they will probably do it at the same time. If you have a 10A fuse/switch (very common) that can handle a peak power consumption of about 2500W and your computer is using about 1500W continously, that is not a very big buffer.

 

Your UPS is rated at 2000VA, to get the wattage rating you have to consider the powerfactor aswell, which for the ups and psu will land on around 0.8 to 0.9 which would yeild maximum PEAK wattage at around 1600-1800W, remember peak, NOT continous. Your computer will draw at least 1200W continously while gaming from the UPS/wall.

 

The power will go out exactly at the time when the UPS is the most vulerable (at peak power consumtion). The UPS is overloaded (or close to) each time the power goes out, this leads to bad quality power for the PSU in the computer. The power goes out because your computer overloads the capacity of your fuse/switch when gaming if something else is powered on in any of the rooms (it might be ok if every thing else is turned completely off, but i'm not sure about this)

 

If the power would go out without the UPS the computer would abruptly shut down, but there would be no power spikes or any other electrical damage to the computer.

 

What i would do is keep at most 2 of the cards, and get rid of the ups (since both the ups and psu will take damage if it is overloaded, and when the psu fails the whole computer might fail including everything inside it)

 

Yes i probably exaggurated in some places, but your computer is not just a computer, it actually pulls compareable amounts of power as you airconditioner (A/C) or kitchen stove. That is a LOT of power and not something you put on a ups or play with lightly.

 

Sorry for a long post, but i felt i had to say something...

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I don't think wiring that is 10 years old is considered old or cheap. I also thought he said he was using 240v circuits which would also allow for more wattage..wouldn't it?

Edited by Fight Game

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I don't think wiring that is 10 years old is considered old or cheap. I also thought he said he was using 240v circuits which would also allow for more wattage..wouldn't it?

depends on the fuse don't it? if the fuse is 2A he can still only pull 480W peak from it... (probably is 10A though)

what i'm used to (sweden) we have at least a fuse per room, he has one for 3 rooms that is cheap in my experience?

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depends on the fuse don't it? if the fuse is 2A he can still only pull 480W peak from it... (probably is 10A though)

what i'm used to (sweden) we have at least a fuse per room, he has one for 3 rooms that is cheap in my experience?

100% agreement with this :withstupid:

 

Think about the way technology has progressed even in 10 years the power demands have increased in some areas and decreased in others. Go find yourself an old pentium 2 and tell me how much power it need and bear in mind that it used to be considered at the top now your have tri sli 580 set ups that draw power that it in excess of 4x as much as what your pc was likely drawing 10 years ago.

 

Add to that more tvs radios and computers per household in developed countries and it is rather amazing how your power requirements have soared. So 10 years ago there would have been nothing wrong with one power circuit, one lighting circuit and possibly a separate one or two for electric hot water and fridge. It is basic it works and was good for a small three room house. But would not fly today, thus old and now considered done on the cheap.

 

At my place we have the main switchboard and a sub board in the garage (240v the lot of it)

Multiple power circuits individual circuits for lighting, water and fridge. In the garage (now gamesroom convert) thereare two power (10 or 15 amp circuits can't remember) and one lighting circuit.

 

Might add, these are benefits of having an electrician as an uncle and godfather.

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guys you have been comfuse me before Mr Waco told me that my ups should keep it on for 5-6 min

 

now Mr Medbor told that big explanation , ( i understand the most of them )

 

so now , i am really confused .

 

 

if i am right the fuse is 16A

 

i will check it tomorrow .

 

so i remove the ups and use my pc .

 

i will talk tomorrow also with my electrician , and i will update you with more details .

 

 

I forget , that thing switching on and off my psu and powers cutt. How we explain that. The computer is off , so i don't think so that it drains watts that time? Or i am wrong?

 

 

thank you all for the help , here in greece the time is 2:16 pm so is night . So good night ( from Here) :P

Edited by akis_56

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Guys i was thinking ,

Why to buy a ups 1200w for example if it can't power a 1200w psu load . I don't say that Mr medbor is wrong, but i just wondering

Whats the reason of buying a ups if it is worthless ?

Would't it be stupid? :O

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Guys i was thinking ,

Why to buy a ups 1200w for example if it can't power a 1200w psu load . I don't say that Mr medbor is wrong, but i just wondering

Whats the reason of buying a ups if it is worthless ?

Would't it be stupid? :O

It's not worthless it is intended to protect your equipment from unexpected power outages. So hardware isn't damaged and also so that any work can be saved before it is powered down safely.

 

I would recommend a ups if you experience regular power outages and poor power supply (provided this is your utility companies fault and not house wiring).

 

I ain't going to agree with medbor until I know what you are drawing but if you are maxing your psu out at 1200watts rms, I will outline sone things. So 2000va (2000x0.8(assuming worst with ups power factor)= 1600watts) and 1200watts system load (would be assuming .9 power factor more likely PSUs are more efficient the UPSs at this current time (this is in general tho, you get what you pay for)) so 1200 would become 1333 watts, however these efficiencies usually follow a curve so we will hedge bets and say .8 which means 1500watts. Only a 100watt theoretical buffer on a one hour supply of 1600watts so you could look at slightly more than an hour of power supply.

 

But this is not that simple. Now a ups is also built with sensors to detect an overload and they won't work like a normal battery and will or rather shouldn't work with loads higher than that they are rated for.

 

Theoretically your ups can supply 1600watts brand new but it's designed only for 1200watts its internal circuits won't allow it higher. And at 100% (according to medbor, I want a kill-o-watt meter in to determine an exact figure) you will need 1500watts on the ups side of the psu. Meaning the sensing circuits set 300watts lower will shut off the ups.

 

So the ups isn't useless but rather maybe not properly matched for your requirements.

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It's not worthless it is intended to protect your equipment from unexpected power outages. So hardware isn't damaged and also so that any work can be saved before it is powered down safely.

 

I would recommend a ups if you experience regular power outages and poor power supply (provided this is your utility companies fault and not house wiring).

 

I ain't going to agree with medbor until I know what you are drawing but if you are maxing your psu out at 1200watts rms, I will outline sone things. So 2000va (2000x0.8(assuming worst with ups power factor)= 1600watts) and 1200watts system load (would be assuming .9 power factor more likely PSUs are more efficient the UPSs at this current time (this is in general tho, you get what you pay for)) so 1200 would become 1333 watts, however these efficiencies usually follow a curve so we will hedge bets and say .8 which means 1500watts. Only a 100watt theoretical buffer on a one hour supply of 1600watts so you could look at slightly more than an hour of power supply.

 

But this is not that simple. Now a ups is also built with sensors to detect an overload and they won't work like a normal battery and will or rather shouldn't work with loads higher than that they are rated for.

 

Theoretically your ups can supply 1600watts brand new but it's designed only for 1200watts its internal circuits won't allow it higher. And at 100% (according to medbor, I want a kill-o-watt meter in to determine an exact figure) you will need 1500watts on the ups side of the psu. Meaning the sensing circuits set 300watts lower will shut off the ups.

 

So the ups isn't useless but rather maybe not properly matched for your requirements.

 

Cause i don't fully understand ,

You mean that i need a ups 1500w+

 

What in your opinion Ups i need to be safe and to be able to handle even in full load of my psu?

 

This will do the job?

http://computers.xpatit.gr/9-ΠΕΡΙΦΕΡΕΙΑΚΑ/242-UPS-INFORM-C-3000.html

 

Or this?

http://www.nvtech.gr/online-store.html?page=shop.product_details&flypage=tpflypage.tpl&product_id=1129&category_id=27&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart

Edited by akis_56

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