My_Inner_Fred Posted July 10, 2011 Posted July 10, 2011 I'll be keeping a close eye on this project Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IVIYTH0S Posted July 10, 2011 Posted July 10, 2011 I have never even heard of RAM on water, this is going to be an awesome build! Good luck! They better goto like 3ghz with that! I like the southbridge cooler on the motherboard, nice unique touch Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SXRguyinMA Posted July 10, 2011 Posted July 10, 2011 Congratz on the great sponsors. Looking forward to this build. Thanks Would the radiator not fit on the outside back of the case? It KINDA fits on the back. The only trouble is tat because of it's size and the fact that the Level 10 GT has it's PCI thumbscrews on the OUTSIDE of the case rather than the inside, I'd need to mount it with extenders, and I think it'd end up looking like a second thought. I can always notch the case on the inside and make it fit, but then it's so thick by itself at 45mm (and even thicker with a fan on it) it will hide half the motherboard. I want to swap it out for a thinner (25mm) and smaller (120mm vs 140) rad and maybe a 12mm fan instead to keep the size down, but we'll see. Sounds like this will be sick when it's done! I can't wait to see more. Thanks man I have never even heard of RAM on water, this is going to be an awesome build! Good luck! Thanks! Looking forward to this. @shurman Water cooling Ram is not new. I have two sets sitting on the shelf Including the kit he is using! Yea it's been around for quite some time, both water-cooling capable from the factory and various aftermarket RAM waterblocks. The nice thing about this set is that they're perfectly capable of running on air, so you don't NEED to run WC to use them. Looks exciting. Hopefully everything goes smooth. Me too I'll be keeping a close eye on this project They better goto like 3ghz with that! :woot:I like the southbridge cooler on the motherboard, nice unique touch Well the RAM has 2 XMP's (Xtreme Memory Profiles) that allow you to set it to a maximum of 2000MHz easily. There are some reviews out there that say the WC added drops temps significantly and can allow higher OC'ing. I'll see what these things can do when the build is done I also have a minor update. I got the case pretty much all disassembled. There was a ton of little screws and clips everywhere, and it was neat to see how they held everything together. Next will be finding placement for some of the components. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluePanda Posted July 10, 2011 Posted July 10, 2011 This is pretty neat -- little bit jealous if I do say so myself. I just love putting them together! Look forward to see it all together! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
momosmokey Posted July 11, 2011 Posted July 11, 2011 I Agree with Panda, I'm so jealous. I love tinkering around with hardware. Make us proud dude. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shurman292 Posted July 11, 2011 Posted July 11, 2011 @shurman Water cooling Ram is not new. I have two sets sitting on the shelf Including the kit he is using! I didn't think it was, that's why I was surprised I've never seen it before. Unless you are overclocking like crazy, I can't imagine the need for it other than awesome aesthetics lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SXRguyinMA Posted July 11, 2011 Posted July 11, 2011 More pics The RFID reader from Trossen Robotics The 2 bottles of paint from Auto Air Colors. I also figured out a mounting for the 140mm rad. It was too big for the inside of the case and I thought putting it on the outside wouldn't look good. However after some trial and error I found that I can use the outer shell from an old 140mm fan as a spacer. The only other issue is that the barbs don't line up with the holes in the case, but that's a small hurdle. So the fan will be on the inside of the case with the rad and spacer on the outside. Alternatively I could just mount the fan to the rad and have them both on the outside of the case. Thoughts? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhenKittensATK Posted July 11, 2011 Posted July 11, 2011 (edited) The benefit of mounting the radiator and fan on the outside is that you won't have to route tubing around a case fan from the inside of the case. A Spacer + Fan just seems like extra bulk, unless you're going to use non-standard black case fans, and want to show them off inside the case (like a colored/uv/led type fan). Then spacer+fan setup will work for that. ===== My Rosewill Challenger case's external radiator ports don't match up either. For my case they don't spread out the cutouts they sit very close to each other and not even centered over the 120mm outtake. Edited July 11, 2011 by Krazyxazn Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SXRguyinMA Posted July 11, 2011 Posted July 11, 2011 I may do like you said and just put the fan and rad outside. If I do that I will most likely cut out all of the honeycomb fan venting as well. The 140mm fan that comes with the Level 10 GT is a neat turbine-like design, so I want to show it off a bit as well. I did shoot a message to Bill from MNPCtech about his 120mm Overkill Turbine fan grill. I asked if he'd make me one in a 140mm size. If he can, I'll put the fan and rad outside and that sick looking grill inside. There will be a lot of "rusty" look throughout from that rust brown Auto Air Colors sent me. The case will be painted a shade of silver and all the blocks, fittings, etc will have rust applied Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boinker Posted July 12, 2011 Posted July 12, 2011 Looking good there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black64 Posted July 12, 2011 Posted July 12, 2011 (edited) Can't wait to see this when your done! Edited July 25, 2011 by Black6464 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SXRguyinMA Posted July 16, 2011 Posted July 16, 2011 Looking good there. Thanks Can't wait to this when your done! Me either lol Update time I got 2 of the 3 windows done. I started with the top mesh part on the side panel (where the headphones hang, above the hotswap bays) I started by removing the steel mesh, then cutting out the plastic honeycomb mesh underneath with my scroll saw. Then I cut out a piece from the AC Ryan panel I got. It took a lot of sanding and filing to get the window and the cutout nice and smooth. MMMM nice fit And a shot of where it goes on the case. I'm going to have a few components and some lighting behind this window, but I'm keeping the details a secret for now Then I started on the top panel. I removed the steel mesh like on the side panel... Then cut out the plastic honeycomb with the scroll saw. I had to do a lot more sanding and filing here than on the side panel. The reason for this is due to how Tt made the plastic parts. On the side I was able to install the window from underneath, so it didn't have to be 100%. Here I need to install the window on the top, and it will rest against a few small parts sticking out, so it needed to be perfect. I used the steel mesh to trace out a rough line for the window panel. And the window cut roughly. And a nice fit This took a LOT of time as the window had to be a lot closer to perfect than the side one did. This window will also have components underneath, and both windows may have some etchings...we'll see on that later on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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