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eh...lets get your parts before we pick a cam....we need something to make the heads work and we'll need to know headers.

 

I'll also need to know more about the car/truck before we chose a cam. I need to know more where to set it and what size to make sure its not a turd out of the hole...bigger isnt always better and if you want more low end torque then smaller is better. with the cam you picked it will be a stump puller and a strong light to light truck but fall flat around 6,000rpm but thats ok for street. thats exactly what you want. any bigger cam or higher rpm and you just draw attention to yourself ;)

 

PM coming

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becuase i really really like fast's ez efi, it was a dream to work with, and its full on ready to plug and play duel throttle bodies, on there site they say one of there throttle bodies are good for under 500hp, two are for over 500, this system is so easy to run duel tb's i think its worth it, 3k for your whole fuel system, pump included, dual throttle bodies, pcm, and a programmer, every thing i need, but as been with my theme through out this thread, everything depends on my job situation, if i am tight in cash, i will probably go with a holley carb

 

 

oh and i missed the thing you said about the high volume oil pump, i should be fine with it as long as i get a high capacity oil pan, and i have an oil accumulator around here somewhere, that should help

 

A single 92mm throttle body will easily support 600hp, and you can run it to a Supervic w/ a sheetmetal elbow for a fraction of the price of the dual intake. You can still run the FAST EZ system, you just don't need their intake setup. The FAST setups are great and easy to use. You'll also need at least a 250int lobe cam to feed a 408 above 6k rpms. The cam you listed would peak under 6000 depending on your heads - crappy heads will make it peak earlier.

 

Everything has to match - you need the shortblock info to pick the proper heads, you need the heads info and goal of the car to pick the proper cam, and you need the cam info to pick the intake.

 

Remember that cams are cheap and can be changed easily, but cylinder heads are the most important part of your build. Get the best heads you can afford, and everything will fall together from there. I am partial to AFRs, but they are a bit expensive. Their 225s flow over 300cfms @ .600" and would be killer on a 408...but they are $2,000 a pair, assembled. My AFR 220s flowed 330cfms as early as .6" after Craig from GTP ported them (they ended up at 227ccs after porting).

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eh...lets get your parts before we pick a cam....we need something to make the heads work and we'll need to know headers.

 

I'll also need to know more about the car/truck before we chose a cam. I need to know more where to set it and what size to make sure its not a turd out of the hole...bigger isnt always better and if you want more low end torque then smaller is better. with the cam you picked it will be a stump puller and a strong light to light truck but fall flat around 6,000rpm but thats ok for street. thats exactly what you want. any bigger cam or higher rpm and you just draw attention to yourself wink.gif

 

PM coming

 

 

well its a 1985 ford f250, hd, 3 speed granny low, 4x4, dana 55 up front, and i dunno whats out back, i want it to be fast in the quarter mile, but i want it to look at home off road if that makes any sense, it want it to be a camaro killer which is not going to be easy. i need to do some gear changes before that will ever happen, my truck right now tops at about 65-70, but it will take anything with it. my reason for this is, trucks are alowed be loud and at the same time not be fast, so in my mind a 4x4 could be a great sleeper.

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well let me tell you about my 78 GM 4x4 I used to have....

 

It was a real monster for me. The truck had a 9in lift on it and had 38x15.5 Mickey Thompsons and it had 4.56:1 lockers in each axle...transmission was a 350 Turbo with a shift kit. it would bark the tires in all shifts. The engine was a 400 small block punched .030 over and assembled with hyperutectics. the heads were mostly stock with mild porting and street flow valves. the cam was a real conservative 218 dur @ .050 and set at 8 degrees advanced (+3 for core shift so +5 actual). HEI ignition and Medium tube full length Headman hedders with 2.5in duals and 3 chamber flowmaster with tails and 4 in cans...

 

truck wasnt loud at all. but I can tell you from a dead stop in 4High it would roast all four tires without trying and was fun to drive on wet days....I did very well at the hill climbs a few times and the river runs and mud pits...

 

It was a fun to drive but at that point in time I sold it to finance a couple more kids :)

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well let me tell you about my 78 GM 4x4 I used to have....

 

It was a real monster for me. The truck had a 9in lift on it and had 38x15.5 Mickey Thompsons and it had 4.56:1 lockers in each axle...transmission was a 350 Turbo with a shift kit. it would bark the tires in all shifts. The engine was a 400 small block punched .030 over and assembled with hyperutectics. the heads were mostly stock with mild porting and street flow valves. the cam was a real conservative 218 dur @ .050 and set at 8 degrees advanced (+3 for core shift so +5 actual). HEI ignition and Medium tube full length Headman hedders with 2.5in duals and 3 chamber flowmaster with tails and 4 in cans...

 

truck wasnt loud at all. but I can tell you from a dead stop in 4High it would roast all four tires without trying and was fun to drive on wet days....I did very well at the hill climbs a few times and the river runs and mud pits...

 

It was a fun to drive but at that point in time I sold it to finance a couple more kids smile.gif

 

my truck wont roast any tires, even in the rain, lol, i think thats why i am so willing to build a ford motor, my truck has just been sitting, waiting to do something, i dont have anything to hual so it stays put, i used to hual scrap metal but my small town is all dried up, no more metal around. but i will have to say my truck is brilliant off road, it has power king super traction tires on it i think they are 31s or 33s, they look like scaled down tractor tires, i dont know if it is lifted or not, it doesnt have blocks but that doesnt mean any body put some bigger springs on it, it sits up a nice bit, my mother cant get in it.

 

post-72816-13057606568548_thumb.jpg

 

 

it doesnt seem that tall in the photo, the bed is level with my chin, the picture was taken at a high angle, i think i was sitting on my buddy's tailgate, (6 inches on a 02 z72

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look on the rear differential and find the tag on the bolt on the upper right corner...from the bolt out read the numbers....if there is an L in it that means Limited Slip...

 

should be numbers like

 

247

273

308

355

373

 

or with limited slip

 

2L47

2L73

3L08

 

you get the idea

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look on the rear differential and find the tag on the bolt on the upper right corner...from the bolt out read the numbers....if there is an L in it that means Limited Slip...

 

should be numbers like

 

247

273

308

355

373

 

or with limited slip

 

2L47

2L73

3L08

 

you get the idea

i didnt find the tag, i have never really looked at it before and its def not 9 inch ford

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correct its an 8.8....but there should be a tag on the rear differential cover on the top...its a thing strip about 1/2in wide fastened to the bolt...

 

 

did i mention i bought this truck from a junkyard for 500 bucks, lol, i looked again, i couldnt find it, i suppose someone could have serviced this axle and not put it back on

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