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I don't think the eco is a particularly great Cooler but the 800 D is a great case so IMO the temps should be a bit better than that. The D14 should be a lot better cooler than the eco so I would switch back to that. Is ot possible the particular CPU is concave.

:withstupid: Definitely put the D14 back on there because from what I have seen it beats everything I have seen except custom water cooling and so on. My 930 D0 is OC'd to 4.01 with 1.21V and LLC on (meaning the voltage could jump even higher if needed) and it never reaches 75C. For stock speeds and great coolers that you are using you should see load temps nowhere near that (55-60 tops!).

 

Unfortunately I do not know much about lapping and how much that would help you. Definitely lap both the CPU and the heatsink you plan to put on it. If you do lap it, make sure you also apply TIM correctly as this could have a huge effect on your temps.

 

Another option would be to find someone who doesn't care about OCing or temps in general and sell it to them and get yourself a 930/950 :)

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well?

Seems well configured air flow wise, but in my recollection the alc is not the best cooler. try reseating it otherwise it may be a clog or something.

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OK, 1st of all people, the OP has already stated he saw the same results with the D14. So switching back to that will not solve anything. 2nd, to all of the people who are saying those temps are fine for that i7, I say HECK NO! I would be just as upset as the OP if my i7 920 running @ 2.8GHz with 1.176V ran @ 70C load and low 40'sC idle. Some1 had a good point with the temp monitoring software, I use Real Temp a temp monitoring software for Intel cpu's!

 

OP, the fan mounted on the back of the case connected to the ECO is blowing out correct? From there I would also install another 120mm fan on the other side of the radiator blowing out (across the rad) so you have a push/pull effect. But, if your cpu is still running over 40C @ stock with your volts that low, then it may just be rma time, or at least it would be for me! Cause, even when I had the stock Intel cooler in my i7 when I first got it, I don't think I saw idle temps that high!

 

Also that rad looks pretty dusty ;) I would clean it out as well.

Edited by SpeedwayNative

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Ok looking at the airflow you have to much air pushing in and not enough exhaust making for stagnant airflow in the chassis. Change the three top fans to push air out of the chassis, the back is exhaust and use the fan as a pusher not to pull air through the rad. You have a ton of heat coming off that 295 that just floats right up to the airflow going out the radiator. By using the top fans to pull hot air up and away(Hot air rises) you cool the airstream available to the radiator. That alone should help you out.

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+1

 

when i saw the pic, first thing i thought was.. fans on the wrong side, GPU is a HOT fkr and how does the air get out?? hrmmm...

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also.. i noticed the water setup doesnt ahve wires...

 

no pump??? i guess it works on just hot water moving around, if thats the case, uve got the lines the wrong way.. if u have them at the top, hot water will to into the rad and back out again.. water is like air.. hot to the top, cold to the bottom, rotate the rad so lines are at the bottom.. so hot goes into it and cold comes outta it

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The pump is on the CPU and is powered by the CPU fan header. One other thing I forgot was that you need to set the CPU fan speed to 100% in the BIOS

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It could be that your sensors are just off. If you have a friend with an 1366 proc see if they will let you take it for a spin and compare the temps.

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Ok fellas here we go!!! I switched the 3 top fans to blow all air out the case. I also switched the radiator fan to pull outside air into the case. The two bottom fans are pulling are into the case as well.

 

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