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Ok here are the two side stackers.


The one with the cutout bottom is the RIGHT where the tfc feser xchanger 360 will go. Originally the hole was cut out for the 420 monsta radiator but i scraped rev 3 of the case.


here we go :)




theres the cutout, kinda sloppy, i will clean it up one day, ive gone too far to mess with it now, i will once i either powder coat or paint the inside :)




right 832 stacker from the back




here is the LEFT 832 stacker, its all stock, all my peripherals will be in here, DVD, bluray, HD's, i can even put a low powered system in here :) and maybe have it control the main rig via wireless device (using android, win 7, win ce 6) thats for later so :)




There are the two together :)


up next :) the custom middle part :) youre going to like this :)

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this part was cut using a water jet. The guys at FCF Customs in Windsor, Ontario did the cutting for me on their water jet machine.


Youll be suprised, its pretty cheap to get things cut. http://www.fcfcustom.com contact Mike Heidt, 519-737-7347, great guy. Fred is the owner, mike is the water jet/cad guy :) make sure you ask for Mike Heidt as there are two Mikes there.


Material used is 1/8" aluminum sheeting which i purchased at METALSUPERMARKET. You can call DAN hes a really awesome guy and they have awesome prices for metal.

Phone is 519-945-1995


ok now for the pics




AS you can see the window up front, 4 holes- 2 for each reservoir, and a bunch of different cutouts up top for wiring and such.




another shot of the middle top piece from the underside of it. window for the monsta rad is on the left




Here is the front of the MIDDLE TOP piece. Its about 593mm wide (23" and some inches dont remember) and 18.5" high.




Here is the top of the same piece (MIDDLE TOP). As you can see i have all the standoffs screwed in :), you can also see the holes for the wires. The holes for the wires have to be individually drilled which i havent done yet. There are 104 holes in total so i can run each single braded wire from my PSU up to the board and Graphics cards.




I have a little more than half the holes drilled here using a #36 bit so i can tap 6-32 threads in there for the standoffs.




Theres my rotary tool with the dremel plunge router attachment :) that thing works great, and got it for 25 bucks :) brand new, I LOVE SALES :P

I spent an hour at Canadian Tire looking at diff tools and stuff :) candy shop




The big oval hole is for the sata cables, and the other 48 holes are for the graphics card wires :)

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a closer look at the rotary tool. On a side note, you do have to cut the drill bit down so that it doesnt hit the base of the attachment and I did sand it a little so that it would fit a little better into the Collet of the rotary tool / dremel.





drilling away :)






The big holes were already cut out by the water jet.




There are the holes for the 2 - 8PIN EPS cables that will feed the CPU. (16 in total)

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OK here are some pics of the MIDDLE BOTTOM.


This is where the pumps and 420 monsta radiator will be :)






Heres a tease pic


You can see in this picture that the cut out is on the left side, it will change in a couple of pictures :) as i changed my mind and put it on the right :)




heres the middle bottom piece. the braces i made are OK, but im going to redo them. I will be welding 1x1x1/16 aluminum square tubes accross from one end to the other, that will insure the the structure is more rigid, and that the top does not sag at all and possibly bend the board. You will see what i mean later, but total sag is about 1/16" with the cards put on but without the rear panel put on which will add support :) still I will make it better with the square tubing.


That is a shot of the side, You can see the 3 holes where it will be bolted to each stacker 832. the 1/8 x 1/2" wide strip you there is to make sure the carriage bolts do not bend the side piece of the stacker 832. just look to the left, you will see the long oval holes, thats where the carriage bolts will be, 1/4" carriage bolts fit perfect :) you will see in later pics.




Middle bottom piece almost ready to be mounted to the cases.




Heres a look at the top of hte middle :) I will be taping 8-32 threads into the braces, 1 on each side of each brace, so 6 taps total.




heres a cutout thats the same as the side of the stacker 832. See how the olds like up, the carriage bolt will go into there and be held, and the strip will prevent the piece from bending outwards to the right and causing the bolt to strip and being unable to tighten.

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Time to assemble




heres a cutout of the side of the front of the 832 stacker, you can see the carriage bolt fits in there nicely.




heres another angle, u can see the square part fits in snug




the bolt hooked up to the left 832 stacker :) ready to be bolted to the MIDDLE BOTTOM piece. But first i have to bolt the 90° angle iron on so that i can secure the MIDDLE TOP piece with 8-32 bolts, using snap covers to give it a nice clean look and cover the screws/bolts on the front and top of the case.


6 bolts on the front, 6 bolts on top (3 on each side; LEFT FRONT, RIGHT FRONT, LEFT TOP, RIGHT TOP) 12 total.









you can see i put it together here :) u can see right through all 3 parts of the case (right stacker, middle, left stacker), haha my school books from previous semesters and some paper along the wall :)




here are the holes on the middle bottom part of the case. these will bolt together with the carriage bolts. The 90° angle iron will bolt to that as well using the same carriage bolt.




as you can see the angle iron, im using all nylon lock nuts on the carriage bolts so this thing dont come loose.




just a random top view

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another random




Ok so i moved all that paper and books off the wall and used it as weight to weigh down the middle top, so that way i can drill the holes so i can tap into the braces. Look at the bottom right of the MIDDLE of the case, you will see a hole just under the tape. I drew a crosshair to mark the spot to drill into the TOP MIDDLE through the braces.




theres the hold i drilled, and markings for the brace




another shot, kinda crappy




theres the dremel with the plunge router attachment drill the holes using a #29 bit, and than i will be taping the braces with an 8-32 tap.




you can see the tap on the bottom right

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Close up of taping, the file is used to file the hole from the top because it was all bulged out from drilling, so i filed down so its flat.






you can see the taped hole, and the nuts down below, i have to tighten the last one :)




NOw i attached the MIDDLE TOP and screwed it in, you can see the screws on the left side of hte middle part of the case. You can also see the window for the monsta 420 radiator.




now some shots with the frame of the case assembled and ready to go. Check out the screws up top. I used snap caps, what they are are plastic washer like pieces that you put the bolt threw and screw through the case, than this black cap goes on top to cover the screw for a nice clean look :) they can be removed in the future for disassembly.










OK up next is all the stacker parts that make it look like a stacker :), TOP, SIDE DOORS, FRONT DOORS, MESH SLOTS, REAR DOOR.


BUT first i have to change the GREEN MESH on my Nvidia Stacker 830 to a black one which is from the use STACKER i bought. I did not use the top of the used stacker as it has a huge scratch, so im simple swapping the green mesh for the black mesh, so both sides match.

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OK here comes final assembly, well just about :)


Swapping GREEN for BLACK mesh for the TOP 832 stacker piece.




6 rivets hold that mesh to the black top piece. simple drill them out and it comes off. the mesh can also be taken out from the silverish holder as well by bending the mesh flaps and taking it out.




heres the black top off the USED stacker 832. Check out the HUGE scratch on the top left. Thats why im swapping them out.




and the swap is complete, its a little dusty and has a lot of finger prints on it. Ill clean it up later :)




there are the 6 rivets that hold the mesh assembly together.




heres the front power unit, it has 4 usb slots (2 on top, 2 in front) and power and reset, as well as power led, and HD light. Simple stuff.




bottom shot of it.




another shot, i took all the wires out, I will be putting them back in later. The unit on the other stacker has all the wires attached and I will be using that for power and reset of the main system :) as it will be on the left side which is closest to the hookups on the motherboard.



NEXT UP, FINAL PARTS TO BE PUT ON :) than youll really see how this thing will start looking

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no reservoir on this one yet....




top view, the setup of the boards watercooling isnt final, i just that for testing :) the RAM block is missing :) water cooling RAM gotta love it :)




looks dirty, need to clean it down with a damp cloth.




the window :) there will be lights lighting up the monsta design (thats real carbon fiber) and an acrylic window :)


Speaking of carbon fiber, i have a surprise :) but ill let you know later :)

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I think im going to attach the castors to each stacker 832 so i can roll it around, its not that hard to move around at the moment but might be 30 lbs heavier :) its prob about 75 lbs atm.








dirty floor :) need to clean those metal shavings off there.






The reservoir is too big, that was for REV 3 of the case. Thats a 200mm TUBE, Ill be getting 120mm tubes from Koolance soon, which will put the reservoir height 0.75-1 inch bellow the top of the middle case :) Ill be putting a RED LED Plug on the top of each reservoir to light up the fluid RED.


Ill be using Double distilled feser one fluid, OR just distilled water with algae protection added (probably petra's). Ill change the fluid every month :) keep it clean and uncontaminated so it doesnt become conductive due to contaminants.




CHECK OUT THE BLACK CAPS on the LEFT SIDE OF THE MIDDLE PART. Its a cap over the screw :)







close up of the reservoir. Its being held by Femal to femal fittings that are screwed into a bitspower passthrough. Simple and sturdy. I might add reservoir mount to each reservoir at the top of each.

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Ok, so im going to show you some cool things ill be doing to my G15 keyboard.


This is the V2 keyboard with the orange backlighting.


Ill be changing the LEDs to RED, and Ive already painted the Main body red, and I will be putting a carbon fiber vinyl on the middle part of the keyboard thats around the keys, and on the palm rest too :) its going to look sharp, here are some pics for now, not done it yet, waiting on LEDs (going to be a pain soldering them on to the little boards they 3 x 2mm in dimensions)

basically 1/8 x 1/16 lol



it looks kinda orange, BUT ITS REDDDDDDD, a nice darkesh red, a little lighter than blood red,. :) maybe inferno red.


or poppy red.




finger prints.




you can start to see the red here.


I basically cleaned it with rubbing alcohol, than primed it, than painted on 2 coats, 1 light, 1 medium. than put on 4 coats of clear :) yummy


more to come :)

Edited by KAMASTER

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almost forgot, lol THE REAR of the case :)




I totally forgot to post pics of the pumps, Ill do that tomorrow, im tired right now :)




the right door isnt going to be looking like that, i did custom make that door as i tried to cut the stacker trays and messed it all up :) so i had the piece water jetted and i put it together :)


each side will have 2 - 120mm fans with modright filters






Thats all for now folks :)


More updates coming :) Please leave any comments and make any suggestions.

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