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TropicalPreist

Modular PSU

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I'm using a Seasonic X750 atm, and it's possibly the best psu I've used to date.

Only problem is it gets warm startup issues when I have it top mounted in a low pressure case. Moved it to a bottom mounted psu case and problems disappeared, changed to a high pressure Silverstone and problems disappeared as well.

The voltage control and power efficiency for my particular unit were above the rated specs, I was REALLY happy.

+/-3% was more like +/-1%, 80 plus gold was like 92% efficiency.

 

Forgot to add, it's FULLY modular. :)

Edited by ilya_hhjj

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How about someone agree to help me find the best psu......

Many of the best PSUs generally don't have fully modular cabling - the 24 pin ATX and 8/4 pin EPS12V lines are almost always non-modular. If you have to plug them in anyway what's the point in them being modular?

Edited by Waco

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I thank all of the SilverStone modular power supplies are fully modular.

 

Here are two from the OCC Recommended Power Supplies List. ST1500, Zeus ZM1200M

Edited by maenuwa

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I thank all of the SilverStone modular power supplies are fully modular.

 

Here are two from the OCC Recommended Power Supplies List. ST1500, Zeus ZM1200M

 

That silverstone and zues look great but im only going to be using max two gfx cards. Preferably the new nvidia cards. i won't need that much wattage do they have like an 850 watt version?

 

 

 

 

Also any verdicts on this psu?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16817151087

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I'm not sure what you absolutely need PURE modular for anyway. I understand the desire for only having to run the "needed" accessory wires. but the 20/24 pin cable and the 4/8 pin power cables are an absolute must for the power supplies and PC to run, so it shouldn't matter if they're modular or not. You're hugely narrowing your possibilities by "requiring" this...

 

 

As for an 850 Watt MODULAR Silverstone:

 

 

SILVERSTONE ST85F-P 850W $149.99

 

SILVERSTONE DECATHLON DA850 850W $229.99

 

 

 

If you can get over the absolute need for the 2 required cables not being modular, and the rest being modular, then I'd reccommend this:

 

7 Year Warranty on this one!

 

CORSAIR CMPSU-850HX 850W $189.99

Edited by Rokkaholik

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I know this is a little late But here i go Stating my Opinion and picking on Paul.

 

:withstupid:

 

Modular or captively cabled power supplies makes virtually no difference!

 

Do the plug/connectors fail all the time on captively wired power supplies? No, so why should they be regarded as an extra failure point on modular units?

 

Yes they do introduce extra line resistance but it really is very, very small and makes no difference to the DC rails.

 

My one and only gripe is the "fully" modular unit. Why make the 20/24 pin motherboard or the ATX12V/EPS12V cables modular there really is no reason?

 

Cheers

 

Paul

 

Well to be honest with you l Agree, but to support my appreciation for my Partially Modular Psu, one advantage to having the PSU modular would be if you have a failing unit... I'll line it up for all to see.

 

Not to rock the boat or step on one's toes... (trust me it Hurts) Im setting this up as an example for when you are a wire managment nut as I am and EVERY wire is Tied Down to something. The process for me Takes almost an hour to Commit to Just Because of How particular I am. Along with the Idea that we determined the power supply is a defective unit.. Lets go over the steps for removing and renewing a PSU in three forms.

 

Fully Modular

Remove Right Sidepanel From case, Remove all connectors plugged into Psu, Remove and renew Power supply, Plug connectors in, GO....

 

Partially Modular

Remove Both Sidepanels from case, Remove Atx connector from Modo (along with Possible extra's unremovable PCI, Molex and SATA) and remove from case Tie downs, unplug modular connectors, remove Power supply adn renew If neccesary. Re-route wires that Are not Modular and Tie them Down....

^ Likely took 30 minutes Depending on What case used and how its set-up After Proper Diag.

 

Standard PSU

Remove Both Sidepels, Remove all connectors from Case Components and Instruments, Disconnect harness from wiring looms, channels, tie downs, and crooks where it applies, Fight With Octopus for about 5 minutes straightening wires out, unscrew Psu, Line up wiringharness and remove harness from channel and PSU at once. (Turn to Friend with PSU Wires in hand Caiming you caught a Squid "inside JOKE") install new Power supply into case in reverse order Perform function test Before Channeling of Harness takes place.

^--- Its anyones guess how long this would take.... "depends on said user"

 

 

My two cents. My next purchase for a PSU will likely Be an Ultra 1000+ watt But who knows. may Be a better one out later on.

 

Enjoy.

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Valid point but...

 

When I fit an high end power supply I expect it to work and I certainly don't fit a fully modular unit because I expect it to fail. High end power supply failures are few and far between these days! ;)

 

Cheers

 

Paul

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Valid point but...

 

When I fit an high end power supply I expect it to work and I certainly don't fit a fully modular unit because I expect it to fail. High end power supply failures are few and far between these days! ;)

 

Cheers

 

Paul

 

Point taken paul.

 

;)

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