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Nissan 240SX Project

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quick question WhY a KA??? ive built a few sr20's for less than your putting into this with 400rwhp much more relaibly with less work. Plus then your set to later on Build a 8-900hp monster if wanted compared to the KA which the block can only handle so much. I have a friend with a 650hp ka But that requires moly sleves and more work than u could imagine stock KA block much over 400 will blow a huge hole in the side just like most mitsubishi guys have found on theyre eclipses.

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what do you mean by this?

 

 

if you cut ignition and fuel (i.e. taking the key out), the engine will shut off...

 

 

Simple...

 

In a naturally aspirated stock motor is fuel and timing arent right they just dont run as they should...

 

in a forced induction motor more timing and less fuel does just the opposite it would in a natural aspirated motor....

 

A naturally aspirated motor will tell you (listening wise) when it doesnt have enough fuel or too much timing...forced induction motors really dont

 

leaner equals more power and so does more timing....the same in a natural motor equals less power...

 

in a forced motor it will continue to run until cyclinder pressure exceeds the fuel and it will start self destructing...by the time you feel it stop pulling or rattle it's too late the damage is already done...this is something one should already know when messing with forced induction....

 

I have played with many motor ones way more powerful than that 4 banger....I have done ford 4 bangers that easily ran 10 seconds in the 1/4 on natural aspiration and 9's forced...

 

of coarse with way more compression than you'll run (16:1) and with a way more agressive cam shaft that you can run with your fuel injection system ECU....

 

Model of motors or types mean nothing when it comes to making power if it has a piston and make compression they are all teh same and work the same way...what works on one works on them all...

 

you just need to figure out how to control the *rate* and not exceed the fuel...that all...and doing everything you can to ward off detonation...

 

when you say 20HP on the head work I am assuming you are talking stock cam right....I wasnt I was talking more agressive with an advance gear and it timed according to the cam I am using ....no biggy here....I dont use stock cams when I use forced induction....the overlap is wrong and cylinder pressure can be to peaky for what I do...I prefer less = more approach...;)

 

the work log look great and I think your doing good with what you have...should be a hoot...

 

Just curious what did you set the ring end gaps to...?

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Just curious what did you set the ring end gaps to...?

 

about .017" for the top and .019" for the 2nd, according to the FSM.

 

motoray: simple.

 

i'm not going to turn this into an argument of any sorts, but here are only a few of the reasons i'm going KA:

 

first off, if i wanted the "jDM tYTe yO!" factor, i'd get an sr20 and miss out of the satisfaction of building my own engine.

second, any monkey with a ratchet set and an engine hoist can put an sr20 in their cars. where's the fun in that?

the iron block is MUCH more rigid than the aluminum block of the sr20. the sr would need to be sleeved before the ka. i know monster kas (600+hp) without it. in fact, i've never seen a ka that's been sleeved. beit heavier, it WILL handle more power.

on the stock ka block, the hp official record is roughly about 530hp before blowing a piston. that's pretty impressive on a stock bottom end.

the longer stroke of the ka gives more torque in the bottom end, which is nice while you're waiting for the turbo to spool - i.e. autocross.

the sr is notorious for busting their rocker arm setup, as compared to the rigid bucket setup of the ka's head.

i wouldn't like the feeling of spending ~2 grand and still having a stock setup.

 

don't get me wrong, the sr is a good motor. if the ka and the sr could have a baby, it would be unstoppable.

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a fellow dsm'er :) i have a 97 gst...with a cough crankwalked 7 bolt cough doing a 6 bolt...i havent worked on it in over a year so i am going to start getting it together again...pm some time if you have anything for sale. sorry for the offtopic i got excited lol :)

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haha nope i don't have any more DSM parts, those went when i sold it.

have a listen at it though:

 

 

i listen to that vid every now and then. it made me happy.

 

oh, and my final reason why i'm going KA:

 

and here is his setup: http://ka-t.org/ivan_p.php Edited by airman

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about .017" for the top and .019" for the 2nd, according to the FSM.

 

motoray: simple.

 

i'm not going to turn this into an argument of any sorts, but here are only a few of the reasons i'm going KA:

 

first off, if i wanted the "jDM tYTe yO!" factor, i'd get an sr20 and miss out of the satisfaction of building my own engine.

second, any monkey with a ratchet set and an engine hoist can put an sr20 in their cars. where's the fun in that?

the iron block is MUCH more rigid than the aluminum block of the sr20. the sr would need to be sleeved before the ka. i know monster kas (600+hp) without it. in fact, i've never seen a ka that's been sleeved. beit heavier, it WILL handle more power.

on the stock ka block, the hp official record is roughly about 530hp before blowing a piston. that's pretty impressive on a stock bottom end.

the longer stroke of the ka gives more torque in the bottom end, which is nice while you're waiting for the turbo to spool - i.e. autocross.

the sr is notorious for busting their rocker arm setup, as compared to the rigid bucket setup of the ka's head.

i wouldn't like the feeling of spending ~2 grand and still having a stock setup.

 

don't get me wrong, the sr is a good motor. if the ka and the sr could have a baby, it would be unstoppable.

 

 

Sounds good....

 

It seems like you really weighed you options and this is one place I would have to agree with you....not so put on your particular choice but on the execution....how you picked what you did...the pre-planning is a good idea and this is something i would have done...

 

When I was in school many years ago in engine class we all had to build our own engines (or the school supplied engine) and we all had this little thing going on who had the best/baddest engine....

 

I remember one kid always saying he had the badess because he was building a 350 corvette motor but my thought was does it really matter what it came out of...? no it doesnt....

 

I ended up building a 283 cu in engine as my 1st and I remeber being teased about it...because it was old and small...but I never said a word...we all worked together building them and listed parts used...

 

the engines werent suposed to be anything real radical and no exotic parts...so I kept it simple...I did buy smart and used decent stuff...the instructors job was to help fire the engine to make sure break-in went smooth...I saved my engine for almost last making sure the vette kid went 1st...they lit his engine and it fired off and they tuned it up and it didnt run half bad...well not for all stock...he put his in a 71 chevelle

 

A couple days later and a few engines later they got to mine....it didnt fire on teh first try but that was fine with me....

 

but as soon as it lit off and rattled to life the instructer looked at me and just said...."thats not a stock cam in there" no it wasnt....no one knew nor did anyone notice the pistons werent stock either...I used 11:1 pistons and a .500in lift cam...that thing really had a rough idle...but man it sounded good...

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Looks like a fun project airman, I am planning a turbo project myself...but on the crotch rocket, not the drag car :ph34r: . 180 flywheel horsepower on a 350lb bike should be fun :lol: . Waiting for the extended warranty to expire first - in the mean time I'll be the weirdo whose crotch rocket is their slower daily driver, not their car.

 

I remember one kid always saying he had the badess because he was building a 350 corvette motor but my thought was does it really matter what it came out of...? no it doesnt....

In chevy's case the vette gets the factory 4-bolt mains while the z28s and formulas get the 2-bolts, but besides that shortblock wise they are nearly identical :). Also, the impalas/caprices/roadmasters etc get heatsoak prone iron heads instead of aluminum. At least from the L98 ->LTX days, not sure about before that :).

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ended up snapping a timing belt 6 weeks later (freaking DSMs) and ended up here:

 

My friend was going to get his timing belt changed on his Eagle Talon Turbo within a week.... and it snapped lol He wasn't kidding about watching that belt (he was telling me before hand how he was a little nervous)... gotta love interference motors.

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@sagittaria - no kidding. i should have forgotten about the 4g63 project all together, the whole experience was a nightmare and a money-pit.

 

@kenny - yeah, it was the stock t25.

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My friend was going to get his timing belt changed on his Eagle Talon Turbo within a week.... and it snapped lol He wasn't kidding about watching that belt (he was telling me before hand how he was a little nervous)... gotta love interference motors.

 

 

Of coarse....what 90% of all turbo people dont understand is that when you add turbo PSI you also add load to the timing belt....the increase in cylinder pressure makes it harder to open the valves and this inturn put a higher load on teh camshaft making it harder to turn...the belt, especially a stock belt, isnt made to handle these loads and becomes the weakest link...

 

Esecially if the engine starts to detonate...cylinder pressure skyrockets and that usually leads to a snapped belt... had it happen a few times

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Of coarse....what 90% of all turbo people dont understand is that when you add turbo PSI you also add load to the timing belt....the increase in cylinder pressure makes it harder to open the valves and this inturn put a higher load on teh camshaft making it harder to turn...the belt, especially a stock belt, isnt made to handle these loads and becomes the weakest link...

 

Esecially if the engine starts to detonate...cylinder pressure skyrockets and that usually leads to a snapped belt... had it happen a few times

 

yep, i didn't know *enough* to think about that when i bought it. i did throw a gatorback timing belt on there because i knew they snapped but it wasn't enough.

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