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GTX 295... WHAT TO DO!


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i was wondering recently with all the stuff around about Nvidia's GTX 295, what with the whole dual PCB now and Single latter and cooling problems and ARGGG there is a fair bit and there are a few things i need some help with to clarify personally and for anyone else wondering.

 

as some may know i am building a high(arguable i guess) end rigg soon(if the cash from the government ever gets through) and for it i have chosen the Inno3d GTX 295 Overclocked Edition. HOWEVER there is a fair bit have found going on about the temperatures being almost killer. these slightly worry me as for awhile i found most people going on about the 295 hitting 80C i knew this was hot but did not make me think too much about extra cooling as an immediate consideration, however i have very recently seen a few people commenting on GTX 295 temperatures of around 100C this worried me much more then the previous 80C so i looked around and found this rather nice Koolance water block for the GTX 295.

 

i was pretty happy that some time after building the PC (or around the time i get it at the rate its taking) i would buy this water block for the 295 to slot in and cool the dual PCBs easy done.

HOWEVER again there is now this single PCB version of the 295 which makes me think again if the original 295 is the one i want to get or if i should wait then i think again, the dual PCB 295 is really hot as i said people reporting up to 100C how could this get any better on a single PCB board, and how is that an improvement on the old dual PCB design at all, will there be any other performance upgrades or is it just the movement of the parts. either way i would like to know if anyone has any heat readings on these new GTX 295s are they worth it much more then the original or what. also with the one i'm looking at being an overclocked edition how much extra heat will that produce?

 

ok last thing, it was also mentioned somewhere that one of the main heating problems of the dual PCB 295s was the fact that the hot air could not really escape the casing, well could it not be taken off leaving just the fans, would that be much more help? dose this work or are the internal cooling stuffs attached to the casing, though to me that would seem rather silly.

 

preemptive thanks everyone.

Edited by Nekroze

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i was wondering recently with all the stuff around about Nvidia's GTX 295, what with the whole dual PCB now and Single latter and cooling problems and ARGGG there is a fair bit and there are a few things i need some help with to clarify personally and for anyone else wondering.

 

as some may know i am building a high(arguable i guess) end rigg soon(if the cash from the government ever gets through) and for it i have chosen the Inno3d GTX 295 Overclocked Edition. HOWEVER there is a fair bit have found going on about the temperatures being almost killer. these slightly worry me as for awhile i found most people going on about the 295 hitting 80C i knew this was hot but did not make me think too much about extra cooling as an immediate consideration, however i have very recently seen a few people commenting on GTX 295 temperatures of around 100C this worried me much more then the previous 80C so i looked around and found this rather nice Koolance water block for the GTX 295.

 

i was pretty happy that some time after building the PC (or around the time i get it at the rate its taking) i would buy this water block for the 295 to slot in and cool the dual PCBs easy done.

HOWEVER again there is now this single PCB version of the 295 which makes me think again if the original 295 is the one i want to get or if i should wait then i think again, the dual PCB 295 is really hot as i said people reporting up to 100C how could this get any better on a single PCB board, and how is that an improvement on the old dual PCB design at all, will there be any other performance upgrades or is it just the movement of the parts. either way i would like to know if anyone has any heat readings on these new GTX 295s are they worth it much more then the original or what. also with the one i'm looking at being an overclocked edition how much extra heat will that produce?

 

ok last thing, it was also mentioned somewhere that one of the main heating problems of the dual PCB 295s was the fact that the hot air could not really escape the casing, well could it not be taken off leaving just the fans, would that be much more help? dose this work or are the internal cooling stuffs attached to the casing, though to me that would seem rather silly.

 

preemptive thanks everyone.

 

100c is when you are REALLY pushing the card, aka the occt gpu test or some form of that, mine while playing games etc everything full blast is around 75c, it idles around 55-65 depending on ambient temp. The factory cooling on the 295 is fine, it pushes out alot of air through the top and back of the card removing the shrouds will do almost nothing tbh.With the water cooling kit your getting now, you will need another radiator in the loop as it will exceed the one from that kit, also you cannot get that waterblock in Oz yet take a look at Link these guys are the only ones that have 295 blocks in Oz.

 

Comes down to your case as well, having lots of air blowing onto the whole card itself should make a fair bit of difference.

 

p.s why get the OC one? takes no more then 5min to OC a regular 295 to those speeds, you could save yourself 60 bucks by going the Gainward.

Edited by Copie

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i am not at all familiar in the ways that graphics cards can OC, i would not know what to do about (for now anyway).

if i knew what to do then yeah i guess i would get the standard one however i would still be VERY weary of the temperature and either may bug out or kill the card with my luck (yeh everyone says about there luck but i have killed things that require much more effort to do so in the past)

 

oh and that particular water block i did kinda want so i was thinking to ship it from US, i know the prices but still *teenage tanty* i want it. :lol:

lmao i should have checked weather i would need an extra rad as well, that adds to it a bit. will have to be a slightly further in the future thing but still wanna WC it, i wanna end up having the EVERYTHING water cooled in a year or so.

 

thanks, but in an attempt also to learn a tad more on Graphics OCs what kinda temp is the roof of safety if this things runs around 75C on average game then that already hits all the cautions for CPU overclocking so obviously this thing can be much hotter.

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i am not at all familiar in the ways that graphics cards can OC, i would not know what to do about (for now anyway).

if i knew what to do then yeah i guess i would get the standard one however i would still be VERY weary of the temperature and either may bug out or kill the card with my luck (yeh everyone says about there luck but i have killed things that require much more effort to do so in the past)

 

oh and that particular water block i did kinda want so i was thinking to ship it from US, i know the prices but still *teenage tanty* i want it. :lol:

lmao i should have checked weather i would need an extra rad as well, that adds to it a bit. will have to be a slightly further in the future thing but still wanna WC it, i wanna end up having the EVERYTHING water cooled in a year or so.

 

thanks, but in an attempt also to learn a tad more on Graphics OCs what kinda temp is the roof of safety if this things runs around 75C on average game then that already hits all the cautions for CPU overclocking so obviously this thing can be much hotter.

 

 

OC'ing the card is easy Riva tuner does 99.9% of the work, as for that block, the EK blocks ship with plexi inner and blue led's which is im assuming why your after that particular block.

 

But yeah each to their own, but it is extremely easy to OC the 295, i had zero previous experience doing it and have it stable at 650mhz 1100mhz and 1400mhz at 100% stability, just from riva tuner.

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I think the main benefit of the single PCB 295 goes to Nvidia in the form of reduced cost to produce the card hence more profit. There is no difference in cost or clocks for the consumer therefore performance remains unchanged. In other word we are talking all the same parts on a single PCB but......

 

That said, I believe there are some benefits beyond that here. Because of the design of the dual PCB, (stock air) a lot of the air from the heat sinks is forced into your case instead of out the back of your case like most cards. So heat dump becomes an issue for the entire system. With my GX2 (same dual PCB design) my case side panel fan is set to exhaust instead of the norm, intake. This helps to remove the heat coming from the card but conflicts with standard case performance . The new design will get most the heat out the back of the case like it should allowing you to force air into the case again from the side panel to help in the cooling. IMHO, Right now, a dual PCB waterblock is cost prohibitive to manufactures and consumers alike, which is why you see limited options and availability. This should change now as I believe you will see more water blocks available for this new design, more than we have seen with the old setup, in the not to distant future of course. So the new design will make it more practical for manufacturers and consumers alike. In essence the new design is now more compatible with the way 90% of the cases out there are designed to cool, so even stock cooling will see an improvement. I also believe there are other technical issue that have been resolved with the new design as well that only Nvidia can divulge ie: the way the two GPU communicate, interface with memory and the PCIe bus itself. Again IMHO this is evidenced by the change in memory chips, orientation of the NF200 chip and PCIe 2.0 config. Overall I believe we will see fewer issues all around with the new design at least that's my hope.

 

You have to ask yourself, Why else would Nvidia go to all the trouble to redesign the same platform?

 

It's a no brainier if you don't already have a 295 but are considering this platform the single PCB is the way to go.

 

Either way she's still the performance Queen.

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This guide here will give you a pretty good understanding of the process of overclocking your gpu.. I am not saying this is the best guide but it worked well for me ,,, you may want to do some other research on tools that will work best with your 295 but this will educate you and get you pointed in the right direction

 

http://www.pcstats.com/articleview.cfm?articleID=1803

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I think the main benefit of the single PCB 295 goes to Nvidia in the form of reduced cost to produce the card hence more profit. There is no difference in cost or clocks for the consumer therefore performance remains unchanged. In other word we are talking all the same parts on a single PCB but......

 

Thats correct, Nvidia is aiming to reduce the costs involved in making what is an expansive card to manufacture. Although i have read that the memory will recieve a 100mhz boost in clock speed other than that i think its the same.

 

Bonus for Nvidia:

 

- 1 PCB

- 1 SLI cable

- Some copper

- Machine time

 

Bonus for the end user

 

+ 100mhz in memory clock speed

+ Maybe better cooling

+ Maybe its a bit cheaper, but i doubt that =D

 

ok last thing, it was also mentioned somewhere that one of the main heating problems of the dual PCB 295s was the fact that the hot air could not really escape the casing, well could it not be taken off leaving just the fans, would that be much more help? dose this work or are the internal cooling stuffs attached to the casing, though to me that would seem rather silly.

 

The idea of the casing is to blow air across the two cores and the copper heatsink, if you removed the casing and still managed to keep the fan in place it would be blowing air but there would no longer be a tunnell for it to travel through. This would mean the fan would have to spin faster to be able to push the same amount of air through the heatsink.

 

Thats my theory as i've never seen an open GTX 295 in real life, and im not game enough to void the warranty on mine :)

Edited by jackbrennan2008

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koolies, thanks so the new single PCB design is actually cooler, not in the manor of generated heat but in the way that the heat is removed and such. sweet

now all i have to do is wait and see if pccasegear.com comes out with the single PCB sometime this year... they are a tad behind in SOME aspects of their hardware, but unfortunately i think thats more of an issue of Australia rather then that particular supplier.... we kinda sucks i cant believe the deference in our internet speeds either its insane.

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koolies, thanks so the new single PCB design is actually cooler, not in the manor of generated heat but in the way that the heat is removed and such. sweet

now all i have to do is wait and see if pccasegear.com comes out with the single PCB sometime this year... they are a tad behind in SOME aspects of their hardware, but unfortunately i think thats more of an issue of Australia rather then that particular supplier.... we kinda sucks i cant believe the deference in our internet speeds either its insane.

 

You can get decent net speed in Aus, just need to know the right people.

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You can get decent net speed in Aus, just need to know the right people.

 

what ya mean by that, what kinda speeds. i was talking about our major ISPs like bigpond and such. why what are you getting and how for what price. I'm interested now but i bet its damn pricey.

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koolies, thanks so the new single PCB design is actually cooler, not in the manor of generated heat but in the way that the heat is removed and such. sweet

now all i have to do is wait and see if pccasegear.com comes out with the single PCB sometime this year... they are a tad behind in SOME aspects of their hardware, but unfortunately i think thats more of an issue of Australia rather then that particular supplier.... we kinda sucks i cant believe the deference in our internet speeds either its insane.

 

I agree, and I'm stuck in Hobart,Tasmania... which is worse than mainland. Btw, you could try www.staticice.com.au

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