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Water Cool Loop.


kiyka

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I've been on xs there have been people complaining of staining. Either way I find no problem with the hydrix stuff. It's only the primochill and feser coolants. There is no need for coolant unless you have mixed metals in the loop, and you want some nice looks that's pretty much about it. If he has all copper in the loop distilled water and pt nuke only would be the way to go

I agree with you, i just like the uv green for looks, he sounds like hes wanting a red loop, and id just go with the feser if hes going to go with a color like that, thats all i was saying, and if he gets the

GTZ he will need a anti corrosive fluid. I do agree with you about the distilled and pt nuke being the least maintence way to go, and yea hes going to have staining, thats the price hell pay for bling.

Edited by crazy8s846

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http://www.petrastechshop.com/loliredcoad.html

 

What about this?

 

Can I use this over PT Nuke or are their cons?

 

 

Actually what you pointed out above is OEM Toyota Antifreeze :P. The reason I know this is cause I talked to the guy at petrastechshop about that lol. It has to be diluted with water. 10% of that coolant and 90% distilled water. Coolant doesn't always prevent algae growth, thats where the pt nuke biocide comes in handy. You can mixed the coolant additive above with pt nuke biocide and distilled water, so that would be okay. Remember pt nuke it not coolant. It's just an additive that prevents algae and other micro sized bacteria from forming in the loop.

 

 

Oh yeah by the way the coolant isn't too red. Once you start mixing it in the distilled water it starts to become a orange color cause it has to be diluted.

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Oh yeah BTW, I may not agree on the radiator you choose, but you will need to get different size fittings for it. What you want to get is is 1/2'' outer diameter fittings for the rad, with 7/16in. ID 5/8in. type of tubing. This will give you a tighter fit around the fittings, thus not needing clamps.

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I took some of your advice and updated the list.

If you get a chance look over it and tell me what you think.

Looks good, id go with the swiftech 355 pump, it has a smaller foot print and is better than the 655, other than that it looks good, dont get me wrong the 655 will be ok. Id still get some clamps, even if it is just some small wire ties. http://www.petrastechshop.com/ladd1mcin12p.html this pump with this top http://www.petrastechshop.com/ladd1mcin12p.html

Edited by crazy8s846

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Looks good, id go with the swiftech 355 pump, it has a smaller foot print and is better than the 655, other than that it looks good, dont get me wrong the 655 will be ok. Id still get some clamps, even if it is just some small wire ties. http://www.petrastechshop.com/ladd1mcin12p.html this pump with this top http://www.petrastechshop.com/ladd1mcin12p.html

 

 

that pump only pump 120GPH, compared to the 655 that pumps 317GPH. Faster pump faster heat transfer

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that pump only pump 120GPH, compared to the 655 that pumps 317GPH. Faster pump faster heat transfer

No the 655 does not out prefrom the 355 DDC-2/MCP355 DDC-1/MCP350- An incredibly popular pump all over the world for its small size and excellent performance, the DDC-2 provides performance exceeding the AQX50Z and MCP655, while having a smaller footprint and consuming the same power as the MCP655 (the AQX50Z consumes less than half). The 655 dumps 2 times the heat into the water, that a 355 does

A faster pump does not transfer heat faster, when the loop gets stable as long as the water is moving it will transfer the heat.

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