kiyka Posted October 31, 2008 Posted October 31, 2008 (edited) (Updated list) I'm new to water cooling. I've spent a few months reading here and there and I'm confident that I understand it, and know what I want. That being said I'm still worried before I start buying parts that I make sure everything is compatible and do what I need them to do. I'm going to be cooling Dual Core CPU at 3.6ghz (Oced from 2.4). Air is absolutely fine for this processor yes. But I want a good cooling system in place already for when I upgrade to a better CPU. (Looking at the upper mid ranged quad's waiting till 09 hits) ( I'm also thinking about adding in the chipset when I get my new Rampage board, but not the GPU. If I do the GPU I'm going to Crossfire them on a separate loop. Prolly on the bottom with some small modding) I was going back and fourth over external or internal for a while but decided internal. (Somewhat custom loop over the Reserator XT) Using the Cosmos S by Cooler Master I'm shooting for a triple radiator (I believe the one I chose fit's). The RAD will be hung on the inside top of the case with the fans mounted on the bottom sucking air down from outside of the case and through the RAD. (Do you think this is the best way to do it?) I was also thinking about putting some fans up above the RAD above the top under the mesh pushing down for a push-pull config. This is the list. Swiftech MCP655 Edited October 31, 2008 by kiyka Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Queenz Posted October 31, 2008 Posted October 31, 2008 WELL FIRST OFF WELCOME TO OCC!!!! :thumbs-up: You've come to the right place and I would be more than happy to assist you. This is probaly the best you could get at the moment CPU WATERBLOCK: D-TEK FuZion v2 Universal CPU Waterblock - 1/2" $65 RADIATOR: Swiftech MCR-320 "Quiet Power" Series Radiator - Black $52 PUMP: Laing D5 Basic/Swiftech MCP655-B Inline 12V DC Pump $75 TUBING: Tygon R3603 7/16in. ID 5/8in. OD Laboratory Tubing $20 ($2 a foot) FILLPORT RESEVOIR: Danger Den Acetal FillPort $12 T-FITTING: Black Nylon 1/2in. Barbed Equal Tee Fitting $1.35 BIOCIDE: Petra'sTech PT_Nuke Concentrated Biocide (10mL) $2.50 Coolant Additive: Pentosin G12 Coolant Additive - 4oz. $4.50 RADIATOR MOUNT: Swiftech MCB-120 "Radbox" Radiator/Fan Housing $18 I would choose a Dtek waterblock over the swiftech one anyday! All of that above and your pretty much good to go. The reason the tubing is $20 is cause you should atleast get 10 feet of tubing just to be safe incase you need extra and the tubing cost about $2 a foot making it $20 in total. As for the coolant mix the PT Nuke(Biocide) and the Pentosin with distilled water at a 1:9 ratio. Good luck man. Since the tubing is a little smaller than the fittings it should give you a pretty good tight fit thus not needing clamps. Sure this all costs alot but if you plan on cheaping out on a good quality watercooling setup you might as well stick with high end air. Oh and you will need three 120MM fans I do want to recommend the Scythe Kaze Jyuni Slipstreams. Possibly the 1200RPM or 1600RPM versions...... Oh yea BTW I would of recommended a resevoir cause it makes it easier to purge the loops of air bubbles compared to a fillport, but a fillport will make it alot easier on you when it comes time to drain the setup if you ever need to like if you ever wanted to add another waterblock to the loop. As for mounting the radiator, you could mount it externally to a 120MM blowhole on the back of the case using the Radbox I recommended you to buy. I did it this way on my case. I have exactly the same parts I recommended to you. For the coolant just go with what I wrote above. All those dye craps and uv coolant are for noobs . They will just either give you a crap load of sludge, or some other sort of mess in the end giving you a hard time to clean it out. Sure it looks cool but performance is more important than looks imo. Trust me you don't want to have to flush your loop with distilled water and 10% vinegar in the end to clean it out do you . A real watercooling setup would just be distilled water, and biocide, and only some type of anti-corrosive coolant if you have mixed metals in the loop such as copper or aluminum. Nothing transfers heat better than just plain ole' water Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiyka Posted October 31, 2008 Posted October 31, 2008 WELL FIRST OFF WELCOME TO OCC!!!! :thumbs-up: You've come to the right place and I would be more than happy to assist you. This is probaly the best you could get at the moment CPU WATERBLOCK: D-TEK FuZion v2 Universal CPU Waterblock - 1/2" $65 RADIATOR: Swiftech MCR-320 "Quiet Power" Series Radiator - Black $52 PUMP: Laing D5 Basic/Swiftech MCP655-B Inline 12V DC Pump $75 TUBING: Tygon R3603 7/16in. ID 5/8in. OD Laboratory Tubing $20 ($2 a foot) FILLPORT RESEVOIR: Danger Den Acetal FillPort $12 T-FITTING: Black Nylon 1/2in. Barbed Equal Tee Fitting $1.35 BIOCIDE: Petra'sTech PT_Nuke Concentrated Biocide (10mL) $2.50 Coolant Additive: Pentosin G12 Coolant Additive - 4oz. $4.50 RADIATOR MOUNT: Swiftech MCB-120 "Radbox" Radiator/Fan Housing $18 I would choose a Dtek waterblock over the swiftech one anyday! All of that above and your pretty much good to go. The reason the tubing is $20 is cause you should atleast get 10 feet of tubing just to be safe incase you need extra and the tubing cost about $2 a foot making it $20 in total. As for the coolant mix the PT Nuke(Biocide) and the Pentosin with distilled water at a 1:9 ratio. Good luck man. Since the tubing is a little smaller than the fittings it should give you a pretty good tight fit thus not needing clamps. Sure this all costs alot but if you plan on cheaping out on a good quality watercooling setup you might as well stick with high end air. Oh and you will need three 120MM fans I do want to recommend the Scythe Kaze Jyuni Slipstreams. Possibly the 1200RPM or 1600RPM versions...... Oh yea BTW I would of recommended a resevoir cause it makes it easier to purge the loops of air bubbles compared to a fillport, but a fillport will make it alot easier on you when it comes time to drain the setup if you ever need to like if you ever wanted to add another waterblock to the loop. As for mounting the radiator, you could mount it externally to a 120MM blowhole on the back of the case using the Radbox I recommended you to buy. I did it this way on my case. I have exactly the same parts I recommended to you. I'm trying to stay away from Swiftech radiator because If I rememebr correctly the screw holes do not fit the Cosmos S (I can't do RADBOX) not enough room behind the case >.>) O Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Queenz Posted October 31, 2008 Posted October 31, 2008 I'm trying to stay away from Swiftech radiator because If I rememebr correctly the screw holes do not fit the Cosmos S (I can't do RADBOX) not enough room behind the case >.>) O How do you not have enough room behind your case? You should have a big open space back there . Can you take a picture of the back? And why did you choose that tubing, it's like extremely thin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiyka Posted October 31, 2008 Posted October 31, 2008 How do you not have enough room behind your case? You should have a big open space back there . Can you take a picture of the back? Look the desk, there is room but not enough to get a proper mount on there with out pushing the case to far forward and falling off the top part of the desk. Plus it would be so close if I could manage to get it to work to the wall that moving the case would be dangerous and I might easily break the mounting screws out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Queenz Posted October 31, 2008 Posted October 31, 2008 Look the desk, there is room but not enough to get a proper mount on there with out pushing the case to far forward and falling off the top part of the desk. Plus it would be so close if I could manage to get it to work to the wall that moving the case would be dangerous and I might easily break the mounting screws out. Then just drill screw holes in the top and go about mounting it that way then....... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiyka Posted October 31, 2008 Posted October 31, 2008 Then just drill screw holes in the top and go about mounting it that way then....... Is it really THAT much better than Danger Den extreme? That one can fit native =] Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy8s846 Posted October 31, 2008 Posted October 31, 2008 I'm new to water cooling. I've spent a few months reading here and there and I'm confident that I understand it, and know what I want.That being said I'm still worried before I start buying parts that I make sure everything is compatible and do what I need them to do. I'm going to be cooling Dual Core CPU at 3.6ghz (Oced from 2.4). Air is absolutely fine for this processor yes. But I want a good cooling system in place already for when I upgrade to a better CPU. (Looking at the upper mid ranged quad's waiting till 09 hits) ( I'm also thinking about adding in the chipset when I get my new Rampage board, but not the GPU. If I do the GPU I'm going to Crossfire them on a separate loop. Prolly on the bottom with some small modding) I was going back and fourth over external or internal for a while but decided internal. (Somewhat custom loop over the Reserator XT) Using the Cosmos S by Cooler Master I'm shooting for a triple radiator (I believe the one I chose fit's) with the Apogee GTZ block. The RAD will be hung on the inside top of the case with the fans mounted on the bottom sucking air down from outside of the case and through the RAD. (Do you think this is the best way to do it?) I was also thinking about putting some fans up above the RAD above the top under the mesh pushing down for a push-pull config. I'm not really sure about what pump or res to use so I just picked two that I thought seemed decent. >.> This is the list. Swiftech Apogee Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy8s846 Posted October 31, 2008 Posted October 31, 2008 Is it really THAT much better than Danger Den extreme? That one can fit native =] They will prefrom with in 1c to 2c of each other so no if the danger den will bolt right up use it, but you will need higher cfm fans to get the same performance that you would get with the mcr320. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Queenz Posted October 31, 2008 Posted October 31, 2008 Id go with the feser premix, have not heard any thing bad about it, id stay away from dye it tends to gunk up you blocks and lines, Been there on that dude. The feser premix first off is never the color you want it to be and it stained my tygon tubing. Ended trashing it and spending more money on tubing. Then later found out I had gunk in my Dtek block from I opened it when I tried a quad nozzle kit on a Q6600 I use to have. Dude just stick to distilled water and Biocide. I'm pretty sure anyone else will agree with me that's the best way to go. Plus it will save you from foam forming in your loop during it's first run. When you got a heavy coolant in your loop and you got air bubbles it tends to make a ton of foam and it's kind of hard to kick in the azz and get rid of after alot of patience Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy8s846 Posted October 31, 2008 Posted October 31, 2008 Been there on that dude. The feser premix first off is never the color you want it to be and it stained my tygon tubing. Ended trashing it and spending more money on tubing. Then later found out I had gunk in my Dtek block from I opened it when I tried a quad nozzle kit on a Q6600 I use to have. Dude just stick to distilled water and Biocide I use the hydrix personally never had a problem, as far as stained tubing, i dont really care, im going to use hydrix green everytime i change my loop, and when i do change my loop i change the tubing, i never use the same tubing. The only thing id worry about staining is the res, and like i said i never change colors so it does not matter if my res is green. If you go to xtreme systems there are people that use the feser, and have never had a problem with it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Queenz Posted October 31, 2008 Posted October 31, 2008 I use the hydrix personally never had a problem, as far as stained tubing, i dont really care, im going to use hydrix green everytime i change my loop, and when i do change my loop i change the tubing, i never use the same tubing. The only thing id worry about staining is the res, and like i said i never change colors so it does not matter if my res is green. If you go to xtreme systems there are people that use the feser, and have never had a problem with it. I've been on xs there have been people complaining of staining. Either way I find no problem with the hydrix stuff. It's only the primochill and feser coolants. There is no need for coolant unless you have mixed metals in the loop, and you want some nice looks that's pretty much about it. If he has all copper in the loop distilled water and pt nuke only would be the way to go Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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