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red930

Ah crap, the Danner is doing something [lots of pics]

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Once you change your "My Documents" Folder, it should link to "My Music" and "My Pictures" inside the new "My Documents" folder (on the other drive/partition). Do you mean you keep them in a folder outside of "My Documents"?

 

Well, yeah. I already have separate movies, music, and pictures folders on my storage drive. What I want to do is be able to click on "My Music" and just have it go to my existing music folder.

 

You know, despite that AS5 tasting alright I'm wondering if it was bad. I don't think the Ceramique had temps this high. They were close, but who knows. I've cycled power a couple of times trying to get the stuff to set. I'll give it another day I guess.

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The easiest would be to to recreate the original hierarchy, ie if your storage drive is "Storage {D:}" it would be D:My DocumentsMy Music. Once you link your My Documents folder to D:My Documents, when you click on My Music on your Start Menu it should open up D:My DocumentsMy Music. That's how I got mine setup.

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The easiest would be to to recreate the original hierarchy, ie if your storage drive is "Storage {D:}" it would be D:My DocumentsMy Music. Once you link your My Documents folder to D:My Documents, when you click on My Music on your Start Menu it should open up D:My DocumentsMy Music. That's how I got mine setup.

 

Hmm...spose I could just do that. Wouldn't be a big deal since I haven't scanned any music into a media player yet so there would be no headaches about broken links and ..

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Can I cut a hole in acrylic using a hole saw? It'd be for a 120mm fan.

 

I've used a dremel circle cutter for fan holes; haven't tried a hole saw on acrylic, but it should work as well (don't have a 110mm hole saw).

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You can also right-click the My Documents and select properties; then click the move button an select where you want them to be stored, this will update all the links and move the files and sub-directories currently in the My Documents.

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I've used a dremel circle cutter for fan holes; haven't tried a hole saw on acrylic, but it should work as well (don't have a 110mm hole saw).

 

You can also right-click the My Documents and select properties; then click the move button an select where you want them to be stored, this will update all the links and move the files and sub-directories currently in the My Documents.

 

Alright, thanks. I don't have a dremel but I may give it a shot with the bit. I imagine it should go through fine as long as I have a piece of plywood underneath it and hold it down well. We'll see, I'll hold off until I figure out my final overclock.

 

I'll also play around with My Documents then too. :)

 

Edit: Hell, maybe I'll sandwich it between two pieces of ply. Might keep the bit steadier to get it started. Not sure How I'd hold it together though...

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Don't forget to mask both sides of the acrylic before cutting ;)

 

I've heard that running the hole saw backwards helps to avoid chipping the acrylic.

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Nice looking case! :nod:

 

I've never done much more than slipstream drivers onto it before now, but I decided it was time to remove some bloat. So first I slipstreamed all hotfixes I could find (since I will not ever update again - this does not include SP3 but does include .NET framework) and all the drivers for the board. This ended up making a disc roughly 664.81MB in size. I installed that first to ensure all the hotfixes seem to work okay, and they did.

 

After that, I went insane in nlite shutting off all kinds of stuff and deleting others. Anyways, the CD is now only 230.67MB in size. Pretty fair reduction, though there were many more things I could shut off/delete.

 

This is something I should to learn how to do! I setup a slipstream with SP2 long time ago that I still use but haven't had much luck doing anything else.

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Nice looking case! :nod:

 

 

 

This is something I should to learn how to do! I setup a slipstream with SP2 long time ago that I still use but haven't had much luck doing anything else.

 

I might record what exactly I did, I tried searching for a decent guide showing what can be shut off or removed without any consequences but all I could find was one for the EEE PC. Which of course shut off pretty much everything and might not have included everything I'd need.

 

Once I get the overclock sorted I might mess around with it and see what all I can do. Installation on this thing is awfully quick so I can try a few out with no real issues. Just gotta dig out an RW disc.

 

All I know is there are a lot of things on there that are completely unnecessary. Like, a LOT of things.

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Dan....

 

I cut acrylic all the time with a hole-saw....

 

best bet is tape BOTH sides with BLUE painters tape...this is for quick release as well as ease of cutting....

 

A drill press is the best way but if you must use a hand drill clamp the peice down some how and cut on a low speed...always put wood under the acrylic for backer support....

 

for splinter-less/chip-less drilling put NO pressure on the drill...it will take longer to cut but will cut a finer line...

 

I will use moderate pressure in my drill press but I also dont clamp it...;)

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Don't forget to mask both sides of the acrylic before cutting ;)

 

I've heard that running the hole saw backwards helps to avoid chipping the acrylic.

 

Backwards huh? Just for when the blade first hits to 'score' the acrylic a bit before cutting into it?

 

Dan....

 

I cut acrylic all the time with a hole-saw....

 

best bet is tape BOTH sides with BLUE painters tape...this is for quick release as well as ease of cutting....

 

A drill press is the best way but if you must use a hand drill clamp the peice down some how and cut on a low speed...always put wood under the acrylic for backer support....

 

for splinter-less/chip-less drilling put NO pressure on the drill...it will take longer to cut but will cut a finer line...

 

I will use moderate pressure in my drill press but I also dont clamp it...;)

 

Thanks fro the advice. Why the emphasis on blue? Thicker stuff or something? I've always just used cheap masking tape for other projects (non acrylic related of course) without issues.

 

Update on overclocking. 340x8 was easy as hell - half hour OCCT stable no issues whatsoever. 342x8 though...geez. I've gone through about half the drive strength combinations and have found one that allows SuperPi to complete - finally. Of course it failed OCCT as soon as a load was put on it. Not sure if this is a limitation of the chipset or what, the CPU should be more than solid enough, the memory as well. Haven't maxed out the chipset voltage (got about 0.15v leeway yet) but I'm getting close to the point that I have to up it in an attempt to pull more out of it. I'm gonna stick with the drive strengths for the time being and see if any other combo gets me closer to where I need to be.

 

Oh, and I sped up my boot time. There are two different HTT settings of sorts, one speed is essentially the FSB, the other affects the speed between the northbridge and southbridge (I think). Making this the same value as the other one (342) doesn't let my load bar even get halfway across. in fact I just see the bar, then it's done loading. FYI, I have tried this at various values, doesn't affect the stability one way or the other. I guess I could try increasing it more while leaving the FSB alone...

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I just prefer the blue for ease of use on acrylic... I am sure the plain will work but when the saw hits it...it tends to smear the gluing and leave a mess you have to clean up later...I prefer to avoid the mess and extra work....

 

I have probably cut 50 fan holes in acrylic to I played with it till I got the best working solution....

 

Handrill is more prone to chipping if you try to drill to fast or too much pressure...lol

 

all of the cases I did in the case pic thread were all the acrylic holes I cut...

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