soundx98 Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 "I like to watch" Just some awesome pics in this thread. Very very impressive work and attention to detail. (I loved the shot of MNPCTech "U"-Channel vs Frozen CPU "C"-Channel molding.) Painting and cutting looked flawless. Need more pics. Have someone take a pic of yer badself with you next to the case. We bow to your uber nerdiness. Excellent Mod Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuppA-SnipA Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 The P35-T2R runs my hardware perfectly. OCing it is a snap; CPU and Memory.... its comes with a lot of tweaking options. A good PSU is a must! It has turned into my main rig, replacing my old dfi nf4 expert. Very pleased with it just like any dfi mobo psu wise Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nez Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 deleted Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nez Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 Flat black means the paint is not shiney (not glossy). The more sanding and the more coats you do, the smoother the finish should be. I would venture to say you should do at least five coats on each part, but you are going to have to see what works best for your situation. I think for a mi-tower case you should probably use most of two cans of quality spray paint. Thanks. Am looking for Matt but smooth to touch look. Don't like the glossy look. Thanks for the advice. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nez Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 mknwatt, Thank you very much for taking the time to advice me. Much appreciated. Now i have a better understanding. I will check out the website for more understanding Thanks Bro. btw, for a first timer, you did one hell of a job. Thanks nez. I’m very new to painting cases, this being my first. I read a few guides and posts on users experiences in various forums. themodnation-forums.com is full of info (t ski linked to it also). The paint used on this case was Rustoleum Painter’s Touch (gray primer and flat black). There's better paint, I just found this paint easy to use.....it worked just fine Before painting, I sanded the case with fine steel wool, getting the shine off but leaving the powder coat. Steel wool allowed me to reach the tight corners but left me with a big pile of dust. Wet sanding will eliminate the dust, but is done with special wet sanding paper. I blew the case off with compress air, washed with a little soap and water, and let it dry or compressed air dried. I applied the first coat of Rustoleum gray primer. Let it dry for 40 minutes and recoated…..touching up the light spots. I let it dry for 24 hours and repeated the sanding and cleaning process as stated above ^^^^. I recoated with gray primer, sanded, and cleaned. Then I started with the flat black paint…..repeating the same steps of sanding, cleaning, painting, drying......doing two full coats with 40 min touch-ups in between coats. I used 7 cans of spray paint (4 gray primer and 3 flat black) Spray paint will create a paint-dust that settles when drying (over spray?) I don’t know the correct term. I also had this; you called it a rough charcoal look. Sanding and cleaning was the right move and is very importance to achieve a smooth constant texture. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mknwatt Posted January 8, 2008 Posted January 8, 2008 More Progress: I cut a new acrylic piece with a simple design cut out. The mesh needs a fresh coat of flat black. The mesh painted with the acrylic behind it. (front and back) Installed cover inside case. UV lights ON Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundx98 Posted January 8, 2008 Posted January 8, 2008 That's very very nice work bro! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest r3d c0m3t Posted January 8, 2008 Posted January 8, 2008 I think an organized abduction, er, public viewing is in order. :shake: Nice work! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mknwatt Posted January 10, 2008 Posted January 10, 2008 More Progress: I put together a Y-floppy cable. 2 uv green floppy connector housings, female floppy power pins, and 22AWG wire (red, black, and green) Used a needle nose to crimp the wire, then soldered the connections. There must be a better crimping tool, making a more secure connection (I choose to solder). The picture only shows one part crimped with no solder (I would crimp the back before I would solder). Here's one end complete and another end; ready to be put together. Getting ready to make the male molex pin connections. I put the 1/8" (3 mm) sleeving and 3/8" (9 mm) heat shrink on before tying the wires Floppy power ends tied together and soldered to a molex pin. Finish cable and installled UV lights ON Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundx98 Posted January 10, 2008 Posted January 10, 2008 ooowww, very nice indeed. Great Pics man. Keep it coming. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReelFiles Posted January 10, 2008 Posted January 10, 2008 Good job man, that looks really good, only suggestion I would make is to zip tie the sleeve then put the shrink over the zip tie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HITandRUN Posted January 10, 2008 Posted January 10, 2008 Good job man, that looks really good, only suggestion I would make is to zip tie the sleeve then put the shrink over the zip tie Bingo! Looks like out Reels a little anal about stuff just like me! He He! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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