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Inanimate

I still dont get overclocking

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What am I going to trust, my calculations or the bios showing the vcore-voltage/both programs?

 

Windows based programs can give you an "idea" of what your voltages are running, but in no way are they 100% accurate.

 

Sometimes your BIOS readings will get you closer to the "real" thing, but still that's not 100% accurate either.

 

The only 100% sure way to know is to check the voltage with a multimeter. There is a photo guide around here somewhere showing where all of the voltage measurement points are at on the board. Let me see if I can find it.

 

Keep in mind, that you probably have some voltage droop going on also, which is affecting your BIOS set value in comparison to the actual voltage going to your cpu.

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Thanks for the pic, I now know where the pwmic is. very useful information. Im going to buy a few of these to use in the chassis instead of the stock tri-cool of whatever they are called:

Noctua NF-S12-1200 120mm

 

• Airflow 81 m³/h

• lAirflow with U.L.N.A. 41 m³/h

• iAcoustical Noise 17j dB(A)

• Acousticali Noise with U.L.N.A. < 6• dB(A)

 

 

I've discovered that my CPU maxes out @ 2630mhz @ 1.375v. I don't want the temps to go any higher now since they are about 52-55c in load with both doors on the chassis opened.

Im currently testing my OCZ-ram which as of now is on 250mhz with no voltincrease, and still using standard timings @ 2.5-3-2-5 1T. Will continue to push it as far as I can go.

If I hit a bump and need to alter my timings, would it be ok to try 2.5-3-3-7?

 

Regarding the exact number on my ram-sticks, I dont know what numbers you mean, and if I can even see them, they have heatspreaders all over it.

There was a sticker on top of it that said:

 

OCZ 1024 Platinum Edition EL Dual CH 2-3-2-5 (strange because CPU-Z says 2.5-3-2-5 and its on auto in bios)

and a serialnumer: OCZ4002048ELDCPE-K. They came as a KIT and im using them in slot 2 and 4.

 

http://64.233.183.104/search?q=cache:NUJxq...clnk&cd=1&gl=se

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Here is the picture of the sinked PWMIC that I promised earlier. Sorry it's taken me a bit to get them up.

 

dscf1112gm2.jpg

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I thought I was stable @ 250mhz 2.5-3-2-5 but obviously the memtest I did in dos was lying. Now I tried 255mhz with the same timings, and it didnt work, so I tried upping the vdimm to 2.8 instead of 2.6... didn't help much really.

 

I backed down to 250mhz again and Im going to try to make it work.

Changing CPC from 1T to 2T will be the last resort since it's obviously slowing everything down quite much :/

 

Im a real newb when it comes to timings, and no matter how much I've read about it here and other places, I cant figure it out really.

I've been adding higher values at random but it doesnt seem to work lol.

I tried 2.5-4-4-8 as well as 3-4-4-5 but it just crashes.

 

According to other people these RAMS should be easy to get to at LEAST 250mhz.. so either Im doing it very wrong, or I've already reached it's maximum.

 

Also, Im using the rams in slot 2 and 4 on the mobo for some reason, don't remember why. Does it make a diff if I put them in 1 and 3?

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Inanimate,

 

Remember, your memory is PC3200. With all of the quirks on the NF4 chipset AND having the memory controller on the cpu . . . You may not be able to run your memory and cpu at the max settings you found while underclocking one or the other.

 

Go back to some of my other replies in this thread and understand that you MAY need to consider using a memory divider to get the most out of BOTH your cpu and your memory.

 

Try using a slack divider (i'd start at the 183 divider) keep some nice tight memory timings and then pushing your cpu as far as it and the other components will go.

 

Do Not, and I repeat Do Not be afraid to use a memory divider to get your rig stable.

 

Also, have a look in the Socket939 OCDB and try to find someone running cpu/motherboard/memory similar to yours and "borrow" their settings as a starting point.

 

With your memory the orange slots should provide the best performance/stability. However, nothing wrong with trying the yellow slots, although the yellow slots seemed to be tweaked for those running BH-5 based memory with the DRAM voltage increase enabled via the jumper on the m/b.

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Yeah I've accepted the fact that I will not be able to get the CPU as close to the RAM-mhz as I wanted in the beginning.

 

My CPU is going to be 2590mhz and my goal was to get the rams to be 259mhz since I use a x10 multiplier while using 1:1 divider. The mats is so easy with that one :P

 

But I guess I will have to settle with 9/10.. 183 divider, multi @ 10 and HTT @ 259 which leaves me with 236mhz RAM.

 

I shouldn't be disappointed since I didn't know squat about overclocking more than 3 days ago or so =)

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Guest erico
Here is the picture of the sinked PWMIC that I promised earlier. Sorry it's taken me a bit to get them up.

I will definitely do this to my SLI-D MOBO.

 

:)

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In addition to sinking my pwmic chip, I also strapped a 120mm fan to the hard drive cage right beside it. These two little cooling mods really helped with the pwmic temperature, especially after I went to an X2.

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That is a good idea. I have some old ramsinks from when I had watercooling on my 9800xt.

Dunno if I have any thermal tape, but I could stick to glue lol ;)

 

by the way. Im done with my clocking now and I reached a 260fsb x 10 multi with a 183 divider. I dont know if something happened with my gamefiles during the days when i was clocking, but after the 600mhz increase, I had 33 fps in Crysis on Very High-settings, compared to 19 that I had before lol!

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My pwmic heatsink is permanent. I applied AS5, then put just a small dab of JB Weld on two edges of the heatsink. Kept the board laying flat and fired it up and ran 8 hours of prime95 overnight.

 

That heatsink isn't ever going anywhere unless the pwmic goes with it :)

 

Thermal tape is a much better (and safer) solution though. So if you can find some locally that's the route I'd go.

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