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Inanimate

I still dont get overclocking

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Thank you for those words.

 

Concerning my clocking, Im able to get my opty up to 2500mhz with stock vcore voltage, which is quite good I guess. Used 2xPrime95 on the cores for 6.5 hours without an error.

My friend was chocked that I could reach 2500 on stock, so Im happy with that, but I guess that it's no use staying on stock vcore if I go higher, I mean, life ain't THAT good =)

 

Which leads me to my next question about upping the voltage.

 

My stock vcore is 1.31 according to AMD smartguardian and cpu-z, so I entered BIOS and changed CPU VID Control to 1.325 or 1.350, I booted up, but still, both programs showed that my vcore was still 1.31 for some reason?

 

This made me look into the CPU VID Special Control and I read about it, which made me understand that you use the formula:

 

CPU VID Control = 1.50

CPU VID Special = 110%

1.5 x 1.1 = 1.65 as an example.

 

.. this to actually.. change it? So now I decided to go with 1.35 x 1.04 to get to 1.404V.

When I boot it up again, both programs are showing 1.360 instead... why?

Some guy on another forum said it depends on if you are in LOAD or IDLE, so I fired up OCCTs 30min-program, but it doesnt change the voltage.

 

What am I going to trust, my calculations or the bios showing the vcore-voltage/both programs?

 

This leads me to the question of why going above 104%, when you can just alter the CPU VID Control to a higher setting and still get to higher voltages using 104%?

 

I dont know if Im right, but the less increase from 100%, like 104% feels more "safe" to me... that sound stupid at all? =)

 

Regards

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Btw wevsspot: the settings you posted didn't work for me, so I increased the timings to 4-5-5-5 to try, then it actually passed the POST-screen and booted windows, but then crashed once I got to the login-screen =)

I upped the vcore abit more, but this time the screen refused to show, and the mobo started beeping again, so I had to take out the battery.

 

The most relaxed timings I would use on your particular memory would be 3-3-8-3.

 

Did you try the 183 memory divider when you had your FSB at 260? If not, you should have.

 

Since Gogar's site is down, send me a PM and I'll email you a nifty application for calculating your actual memory speed based on your FSB and CPU multiplier. It is invaluable.

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Guest erico

Inanimate,

Are you still using the original BIOS or have you updated it? Two good candidates for your MOBO DDRAM combo are the TMOD and OCZTony's 704-2BTA or 623-2BTA.

 

If and when you do flash your BIO...do yourself a favor... only use TMOD's Disk and not Winflash!! Winflash is inherently risky if you have no experience flashing a BIOS chip.

 

Those BIOSes have worked well for many of us with the DFI UT Lanparty Nf4 motherboards.

I am able to push my Opteron 144 up to 3.15 Ghz without any problems. I am using OCZ DDRAM PC3200/4000 sticks.

 

I see you are moving right along in your understanding of overclocking. Keep it up. :)

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Good suggestion on the BIOS revision. I'm still using the 0704-2bta today. Tried every BIOS ever released for the DFI NF4 boards (sans the Expert), and the 0704-2bta always played the nicest with the widest range of cpu's and memory I've swapped on and off that board over the last two years.

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According to CPU-Z, my biosversion is N4D623-3

 

As it is now, temperaturewise etc, the PWMIC goes up to 80c when I use 2550mhz @ 1.4v.

Im using settings according to the maximum RPM I can stand on the fans, and this setting seems to be worthless.

Funny thing is that I can reach 2500mhz stable for 6.5h, but 2550mhz @ 1.325x110% = 1.4v doesn't work. One core is failing after 2-30 minutes.

 

Im going to get some dessert, then Im going for another BIOS as you said =)

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Ok update. I now have the BIOS version (704-22V6) BIGTOE TWEAKED 704-2a

which I updated via the Tmod CD version 10.2 I downloaded.

 

It changes a few things within the BIOS obviously, some abbrevations mainly and nothing that seemed odd to me at least.

 

Im clocking right now @ 2550Mhz which I haven't found to be stable yet using any voltage between 1.3-1.48v yet, but this time I didn't change the CPU VID Special Control. It's still on auto, but I upped it to 1.4 in the bios, and CPU-Z and DFI Smartguardian says my voltage is 1.37V and 1.36V. Dunno which one to trust really, but I mean. People are using their 90nm CPU's @ 1.65 and I've been a girl not daring to go above 1.45 so, I figure I can just as well up it for the sake of the weekend :P

 

I hope that the extremely good feedback I've been given so far, won't end now, since I've learned sooo much from you guys, every single one of you. And I bet some other new-to-clocking-people have as well.

/dance

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couple of questions for you. what cooling are you using? what is your cpu temp currently? are you running your memory at 1:1? what are you using to test stability?

 

below are the volts i had to give my opty 165 to get it to be stable at 2700Mhz

 

http://img233.imageshack.us/my.php?image=s...test2700ro6.png

 

after that orthos run i decided to retire my freezer pro and get better cooling.

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BigBloke: I'm using the Zalman 9700 for CPU cooling, I also exchanged the mobo-fan to the one Angry_Games and DFI recommended since my stockfan broke after about 1 year.

My CPU temp, probably because it's almost winter now, is @ 55c in full LOAD on both cores, although, I removed to door on the chassis. The PWMIC is @ 64c which is bothering me, but my friend which is very educated within clocking, said that you can let the PWMIC reach 85-90c and it still wouldn't be a big problem.

Chipset @ 44c.

 

Since Im testing the CPU max capacity at the moment, Im using 01/02 100mhz memory divider.

 

I am currently testing how far I can go during the cold period between november-april/may, with closed door on chassis. If the CPU-temps reach 58 degrees @ 2000RPM, it's not optimal, but Im not going to be bothered by it.

 

Thank you for the pics. I just tried 2700mhz @ 1.4V and it failed in Prime after 5 min, so Im upping it to 1.45 to test again.

 

For anyone reading this, this thread will be kinda like a blog. To keep notes for myself, as well as consulting wise people about how to do etc. Don't be confused. Learn from my newbie-ness =)

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Guest erico
BigBloke: I'm using the Zalman 9700 for CPU cooling, I also exchanged the mobo-fan to the one Angry_Games and DFI recommended since my stockfan broke after about 1 year.

My CPU temp, probably because it's almost winter now, is @ 55c in full LOAD on both cores, although, I removed to door on the chassis. The PWMIC is @ 64c which is bothering me, but my friend which is very educated within clocking, said that you can let the PWMIC reach 85-90c and it still wouldn't be a big problem.

Chipset @ 44c.

 

Since Im testing the CPU max capacity at the moment, Im using 01/02 100mhz memory divider.

 

I am currently testing how far I can go during the cold period between november-april/may, with closed door on chassis. If the CPU-temps reach 58 degrees @ 2000RPM, it's not optimal, but Im not going to be bothered by it.

 

Thank you for the pics. I just tried 2700mhz @ 1.4V and it failed in Prime after 5 min, so Im upping it to 1.45 to test again.

 

For anyone reading this, this thread will be kinda like a blog. To keep notes for myself, as well as consulting wise people about how to do etc. Don't be confused. Learn from my newbie-ness =)

Which specific DDRAM sticks do you have installed?

I mean the actual part number on the stick.

 

If the timings you list in your sig (Memory: 2x1024 PC3200 OCZ 2.5-3-2-5-7

) are what you are using then loosening them up and running them at 2T CPC should give you a great deal more stability.

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You could always heat sink the PWMIC. I did mine and it helped, especially with the 120mm fan strapped to my hard drive cage right beside it. I didn't even have to buy the heatsink. I just cut an old one I had laying around to the same size as the PWMIC and installed it with thermal tape.

 

I'll digg up the white paper on the PWMIC's that DFI used on that board. I've got it around here somewhere.

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Guest erico
You could always heat sink the PWMIC. I did mine and it helped, especially with the 120mm fan strapped to my hard drive cage right beside it. I didn't even have to buy the heatsink. I just cut an old one I had laying around to the same size as the PWMIC and installed it with thermal tape.

 

I'll digg up the white paper on the PWMIC's that DFI used on that board. I've got it around here somewhere.

 

Wevspot,

Can you post a picture of it?

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Wevspot,

Can you post a picture of it?

 

Yes, I'll snap a photo and post it tonight once I get back home. I just had that rig tore apart for routine cleaning last week! Wish I would have done it then :(

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