alexfort93 Posted September 29, 2007 Posted September 29, 2007 I have it running the way in the picture. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest erico Posted September 29, 2007 Posted September 29, 2007 I have it running the way in the picture. I would rather ask you than make an assumption. You are powering the fans via one of your MOBO's fan headers? If you are... then consider undoing the connector(as shown in the picture) and use an adapter to power the rear fan from someplace (preferably the PSU) else. I do realize that might be a bit of a hassle (given where in the case the connector is located) unless you can reach it from the right hand side of the case after removing the cover. The way the Gigabyte case fan power was setup is cool for aesthetics. It is terrible in terms of current draw from the motherboard. Higher current draw equates to more heat and higher temperatures. cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexfort93 Posted September 29, 2007 Posted September 29, 2007 yes it then connects to my mobo. Your saying undo these get an adapter and run them directly from the PSU? Won't it lose the temp control and always run at 100%? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest erico Posted September 29, 2007 Posted September 29, 2007 yes it then connects to my mobo. Your saying undo these get an adapter and run them directly from the PSU? Won't it lose the temp control and always run at 100%? I am using the Thermaltake Hardcano SE to control most of my fans. Most fan controllers have the auto/manual option. My CPU is water cooled. It all depends on what you objective is. Mine was to lower the MOBO temps. The only fan that really should be connected to a MOBO fan header(usually marked as CPU_Fan on most motherboards) is the CPU cooling solution of your own choice. Connecting case fans to the PSU is not a bad thing. Unless you use a fan controller or connect them to MOBO fan headers, the fans will run @100%. For an over clocked motherboard, it is a better solution IMO than connecting them to the MOBO fan header(s). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexfort93 Posted September 29, 2007 Posted September 29, 2007 Ok but could this really be the problem? I was thinking more of my Northbridge overheating cause the heatsink bolt broke. EDIT: Ok I took off the heatsinks, and I couldn't really tell on it but I did get a number, 46V64M8, and they are Micron Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest erico Posted September 30, 2007 Posted September 30, 2007 Ok but could this really be the problem? I was thinking more of my Northbridge overheating cause the heatsink bolt broke. EDIT: Ok I took off the heatsinks, and I couldn't really tell on it but I did get a number, 46V64M8, and they are Micron By heatsink bolt are you referring to the Northbridge passive heatsink plastic retaining clip? Yes it could very well be part of the problem. Yours is a µATX mobo and everything is very close together. Your video card, which is a heat producer is right next to your northbridge. By removing the fans from the MOBO fan header and replacing the northbridge retaining clip or replacing the Northbridge heatsink entirely with a new one, complete with retaining clips and using AS5 or another high performance TIM, you should find your temps dropping to a reasonable value. Go to the Arctic Silver website. They have a nice downloadable videos on applying Thermal interface material to CPUs and heatsinks. Without overclocking @idle you should expect MOBO temps in the 30's and CPU somewhere near that as well as long as you have applied the TIM correctly. My preference is Arctic Silver Ceramique as it has a quick curing time. I will see what info I can find on your memory sticks and get back to you on that. You said Buffalo, right? What size memsticks? 1 Gigabyte or 512 MB? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest erico Posted September 30, 2007 Posted September 30, 2007 Please use the SPD tool for information on the memsticks. The more accurate the info you give the easier it is to resolve an issue. With the tool you will see specific manufacturer information as well as programmed timings at various Memclock speeds. It is not dangerous to use the SPD tool if you just read the stick and not write to them... Was the number on the chips possibly micron 46V64M8-5B or just 46V64M8? From what I see so far it looks more like Supertalent, Transcend, Crucial and Corsair use those chips.. Are the sticks single-side or double-sided? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexfort93 Posted September 30, 2007 Posted September 30, 2007 Ok I have a little thing of AS5 but I don't want to take out my motherboard to apply it until I get a new heatsink for my northbridge. It had 46V64M8-5B D. 1GB sticks, double sided. Also I tried bringing my overclock back to 2.4GHz after it failed on 2.5GHz, I had it EXACTLY the same settings when it went for 16 hours. I stress test it overnight, everythings fine for 9 hours. The minute I go on and start typing on the internet it shuts off. I don't know what's going on but its getting annoying... What would you like me to find on SPD tool? It does say Buffalo (formerly Melco) for the manufacturer The timings are TCL- 4.0 TRCD- 3 TRP - 3 TRAS - 8 TRC - 11 TRFC - 14 TRRD - 2 TWR - 0 TWTR - 0 TRTP - 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest erico Posted September 30, 2007 Posted September 30, 2007 Do you have it disabled? Look at page 27 of your manual. Do you have the memsticks in DIMM1/DIMM2 or DIMM3/DIMM4? Either of those configurations will give best memory stability and performance. Have you run memtest from the BIOS? You really need to take care of your heat issue before you start overclocking. The longer you let this go on the worse it will get and eventually your system will not boot into windows at all. Otherwise you will kill your motherboard. Put your system back to stock clocks for now and in BIOS... auto just about everything. CPU temps above 50C or so will shorten the life of your CPU and that is not good. What temps are you seeing in BIOS before you boot windows and what temps are you seeing in Windows (CoreTemp ,Sisoft Sandra or Systool or something of that note) I would remove the BFG 8800GT and use the onboard video for now. That will remove one big heat source from your system. Are you familiar with taking screenshots? Have you looked at the Event log in Control Panel >Administrative tools to see if the reset is caused by an application or the OS itself ? Gotta walk before you can fly Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexfort93 Posted September 30, 2007 Posted September 30, 2007 I can take a screenshot of that if you'd like.. But isn't northbridge my onboard? So wouldn't that not matter since I'm not using it? I can export it and if you want you can take a look at it.. Which one? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest erico Posted September 30, 2007 Posted September 30, 2007 I can take a screenshot of that if you'd like.. But isn't northbridge my onboard? So wouldn't that not matter since I'm not using it? I can export it and if you want you can take a look at it.. Which one? The Northbridge/Onboard graphics chip is the big one that says ATI Radeon Xpress 200 RS482 below your CPU. Your Southbridge is the ATI IXP 450 chip near your four SATA ports. Disabling your onboard graphics through the BIOS does not disable the Northbridge. Enabling onboard graphics in your case and removing (temporarily until temperature problem resolved) BFG 8800GT will cool down your motherboard and lower case ambient temperature. You can verify this afterwards with a software tech tool which displays temperatures that the ITE IT8712F chip (see manual page 25 lower left corner) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexfort93 Posted September 30, 2007 Posted September 30, 2007 Ok so in order to fix the temperature problem, I should most likely get a new heatsink for it? I don't see another way.. BTW my cards a 7950GT Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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