Jump to content

Room heats up..


Darkorb

Recommended Posts

most of the time i do have my door open to let the warm air out, but at night i keep my door closed so the air goes on. when im up at school im going to put my computer right under the window again so once it gets cold out i can just open the window.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you only have a 300mhz OC going try using Cool & Quiet. leave VID on auto and use the VID special for your extra voltage, also make sure you leave the multiplier on auto and then enable CNQ. That way when the rig is seeing light use it will back off the voltage and clock speed, when it needs the power it is instantaneous.

 

With my rigs, clocking with C1E or cool & quiet enabled has been my only option. My computer room is on an outside wall, it's just plain hot in here in the summer and not much helps. If it wasn't for C1E I doubt I would still have a quad core powered rig.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You will have to do a little testing just to be sure. I may have made it sound a little easier than it actually is, but yes it does work. You will need the AMD Cool & Quiet driver, then under power options in Windows Control Panel, set it to minimal power management. RAM voltage can be set manually as well as all other voltages except CPU VID.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Leave the door and window open in your room from some circulation. If there is even a light breeze then the air will vacuum through the window and then out the door. Make sure you use something to hold the door open though because sometimes it can slam shut and scare the hell out of you. This happened one time in the middle of the night while playing Doom 3 and I jumped about 5 feet out of my chair. It woke the rest of the house up as well because they didn't know what the hell was going on. All they heard was a loud bang at 3AM.

 

Thankfully the Yukon only gets maybe a week or two total of 30C+ weather. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well originally I was going to return it before even installing it. I had an Arctic Cooling Freeze 7 Pro which was letting my chip reach 50C at 3.2 full load. This temperature is totally acceptable but I thought what the hell lets use the 120 Extreme and see how it does. I knew it was future proof with all sockets so thats why I decided ultimately to keep it. At 3.2ghz (CPU max) and 1.425V I get load temps no higher than 36C. The CPU is not lapped and neither is the heatsink. This is with summer ambients of 23-25C in my room. Winter soon and ambients usually go 20-22C and I expect my CPU temps to follow suit. I have 2 92mm SilenX 32CFM fans intake, 120mm Scythe SFLEX-F fan exhaust and another SFLEX-F on the heatsink. Very good heatsink and I can't wait to get a chip that will push a bit further because obviously I have headroom. I think I'll be waiting for the new Phenom chips until I upgrade if AMD can pull it off. If not then I'll be going with Intel's new 45nm chips which will have even less heat and more overclocking potential.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

man AC , back over here in the darkage , i mean England, u just dont get AC in homes.

 

i get the same temp problems in my room 30c odd. the best thing i do is create a air stream through my room.

 

i in my house i just shut all the windows ,on the side of the house my rooms on, then just open my window so the air can only come in or go out my window.

 

even if there is'nt bugger all wind i can still get sum sort airflow through, its just getting the right windows open or shut.

 

actually its better to open a window in your room then one other so it can...i forget the word for it but w/e its better gets more air flowing

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...