DD Set-Up and help with H2O

[Anonymous1]

I've done some research and have spoken with a few people and have decided to go with watercooling for my final(god I hope so) cooling solution.

 

From looking around and reading reviews, it would seem that Danger Den is probably the best choice, albeit one of the the most expensive.

 

ATM, I'm only looking to cool my CPU. If all goes well there, I may expand the system later on to include the chipset and possibly my two GPUs. As I've mentioned though, the CPU is the only thing I'm concerned about as the Vigor Monsoon has become nothing but a $150 disappointment.

 

Right now, the parts I'm looking at buying are:

Waterblock: MAZE4 S939

Radiator: Black Ice Pro III

Pump: DD 12V-D5 Variable Speed

Coolant: MCT-40 Non-Conductive

 

These items set up with a brass T line for filling/bleeding and all of the assorted 1/2 ID hoses and clamps. In addition I'll be using AS5 and probably 3 Vantec 120mm fans rated at 94CFM. Their may be a reservoir and fan controller in the mix, but I haven't decided on that yet. I used to have a Vantec Tornado(92mm @ 70+dcb) so noise isn't really an issue, yet.

 

I'm looking to keep the pump, radiator and fans outside of the case. Although I have a full-tower (Enermax Uber Chakra) I get really OCD-like when it comes to case clutter. HITandRUN showed me a picture of his set-up and I'm a big fan of the way it looks and I'll probably be modeling my set-up after his...in a home-made wooden box with cut outs that the case will sit on top of.

 

My main concern is price vs performance. I really hope that after all of this ($220+S&H), my load temps will actually be less than what they are with the Vigor "Crap" Monsoon, and what they were with the Si-128. Both of which with the vcore at 1.55v were hitting 53C+ in the heart of the Summer season at load. The Si-128 hit 59C at max and that sparked some serious concern which lead me to purchase the Vigor TEC hybrid.

 

Thoughts and pointers?

[radodrill]

The best waterblocks out there are DangerDen, Swiftech, and EK-waterblocks; best pumps are Swiftech and LIANG; and the best radiators are Swiftech and Hardware Labs.

 

You might get a better price shopping at www.petrastechshop.com

 

You may want to consider a CPU waterblock with a universal top; more likely that you'll be able to re-use it if you change motherboards.

 

H2O cooling is certainly the way to go; I've had a 3.2GHz prescott running at 3.92GHz and load temps were at 40C

[danzgpgt97]

I would get this block its supposed to be the best. http://www.petrastechshop.com/dfuuncpubl1.html

[Angry_Games]

try to avoid a reservoir. Too much leaking and not as good water pressure as a good T-line + fillport. I'll certainly never go back to reservoir ever again.

 

outside the case sorta makes it a big tougher, but if you got a big case, you can go something like this:

 

http://www.angrygames.com/pics/cases/stacker_xfire-1b.jpg

http://www.angrygames.com/pics/cases/stacker_xfire-2b.jpg

 

or

 

http://www.angrygames.com/pics/cases/kameron/kameron-1.jpg

http://www.angrygames.com/pics/cases/kameron/kameron-2.jpg

http://www.angrygames.com/pics/cases/kameron/kameron-4.jpg

 

more pics of variousness here:

http://www.angrygames.com/pics/cases/

 

definitely shop around for better prices than the mfg site, like the one rado listed above, jab-tech.com, svc.com (we get credit for SVC purchases if you click one of our svc things in our sigs!), newegg.com (same! but newegg usually too expensive for air/watercooling for the good stuff), etc. Pricegrabber.com is a good place to start, but it won't compare prices at some of the other lesser-known stores, so google is your friend also.

 

and don't sweat watercooling being good. It's quiet if you do it right, and is worth every penny for performance as well.

 

I always prefer the TDX blocks over the Maze, though there's really no difference in any cpu waterblock honestly (unless you got the e-penis thing going and got to have every last degree centigrade of cooling).

 

Possibly check into a gpu block too or if you don't want that complexity, get a nice Silencer or Accelero etc for it, as your watercooling will defintely be quiet enough you will hear every fan in your rig lol.

[Anonymous1]

I shopped around, and I didn't find any of the items at any noticeably lower prices...maybe a dollar here or there, but they were either the same as the mfg or they were a bit more expensive.

 

Anyways, I went with a 360 rad in the event I like how this turns out, I'll do the whole computer and would like to not have to purchase a larger rad. Being a 360, I might have a hard time finding a spot for it in the case, unless I use the side grate as a mounting point. I'd have to remove the 250mm fan, but it isn't doing much anyways so no loss there.

 

Enermax Uber Chakra

[Anonymous1]

What is the green/black psu trick? I tried reading it where it was linked in the h2o guide, but the site won't let me view it even after logging in.

http://www.bleedinedge.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5577#5

 

Can anyone explain this to me?

[Angry_Games]

take a very short piece of wire, make the ends bare, then put one end into the 20/24 pin block of the psu (the one that connects to the mobo) on a BLACK wire, and put the other bare end (bend it around) into the GREEN wire on the pin block. This will 'jump-start' your psu.

 

This is extremely useful for starting ONLY the pump so you can get the lines filled completely with fluid (I use the on/off switch on the back of the psu to turn it on/off once the wire is inserted)

 

gah i bought this $.50 part from SVC or somewhere that plugs right on to the end of the 24-pin ATX block of a psu and is pre-wired to black+green so you don't have to go inserting a wire in it etc...anyway, it's really easy.

 

just make SURE you only do green + any black

[Anonymous1]

How tight do the inlet and outlet barbs need to be on the rad and such.

[radodrill]

How tight do the inlet and outlet barbs need to be on the rad and such.

 

Depends on the barb style/size; but generally not too tight. Should only be ever so slightly compressing the tube.

[Anonymous1]

No I mean the actual inlet/outlet ports that you screw into the radiator. How tight do they need to be screwed on?

[radodrill]

No I mean the actual inlet/outlet ports that you screw into the radiator. How tight do they need to be screwed on?

 

Maybe 1/2 to 1 turn past hand tight should be enough.

[wevsspot]

try to avoid a reservoir. Too much leaking and not as good water pressure as a good T-line + fillport. I'll certainly never go back to reservoir ever again.

 

AG, did you notice an improvement in your water cooler's performance when you ditched the reservoir? Or did you have a leaking problem that scared the crap knickers out of you?