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no_nonsense4857

DFI NF4 UltraD + Opteron 180 + Mushkin Redline DDR500

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Hi diyers,

 

Its been nearly a year and a half since buying my NF4 UltraD mobo. Its a shame that AMD has left me no choice but do my LAST upgrade for the system.

 

So, i went ahead and bought a Opteron 180 and the Mushkin Redline DDR500 2GB Kit. Both the components are the "best of the ones left" in newegg. Hence no research, just a knee jerk reaction to the forced obsolecence.

 

So, i started to search everywhere to find a similar config - both in the overclocking database and elsewhere. I could'nt find one, hence thought of creating a new thread to ask for help and document the same once my 'modding' and 'overclocking' project becomes successful.

 

In addition to the processor and RAM, i also ordered the evercool vc-re and the NV Silencer for my 7800GT. Time to enjoy some modding too :)

 

I had some basic questions before getting on with the overclocking project.

 

a) The product code for the Opteron 180 is OSA180CDBOX

I googled and the only informative link was http://www.amdcompare.com/us-en/opteron/de...opn=OSA180CDBOX

 

I tried to make sense of the naming convention, but bore no fruit. The only thing I got to know was its a E6 stepping.

 

I found a huge load of resources talking about the 'older' opterons with detailed break down of the naming convention, the stepping details and their effect on the 'overclockablity' of processor. Each stepping was uniquie in one way or the other.

 

So, could anybody throw some light on the E6 stepping and its overclockablity?

 

B) I observed that most of the entries in the overclocking database supply the processor a voltage which is much above the printed limits, so does that void the warranty on the processor?

 

c) The mushkin redline's product code is 991493. And what I checked out from google is that its a Infineon Chip. Now, given the importance of the choice of bios depending upon the chip being a TCCD or a BH-5 etc. Could you suggest me the right version, so that I flash the same from TMOD's bios factory. I know that overclocking is all about patience like angry has said in the sticky threads, but the right bios would help me to get down to only overclocking, rather than hit a block and then get to know that the 'other' bios was the right choice.

 

I had asked for the naming convention some time back. My bios reads "06/23/2005 NF CK804 6A61FD49C 00" on the bottom left hand corner of the screen while booting. Somebody helped me out by telling that its a 623 bios (FYI).

 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Thank you.

 

* The options in the 'prefix' dropdown while creating the thread did not have DFI. That hurt a bit :( There must be a reason for that, but I request the mods not to disown us DFI owners :)

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Guest drteming

The stepping for the processor should be on the processor itself. It should be the 3rd line down from the top with a 5 character alphanumeric code separated by a space and then a 8 character code with the first 4 being numbers and the last 4 being letters.

 

939 overclocking is no longer the "in" thing as Intel has taken over, so you are not going to find any info on the newer steppings.

 

If you are going to overvolt, then technically you are voiding the warranty, but it is not uncommon for an opteron to hit 2.8 GHz+ on stock voltage--so use your discretion as to how much you want to push it.

 

My OCZ modules on the Ultra-D rig use Infineon CE-6's, which I think are the same ones in your Muskin Redline. I have no trouble with the latest bios from the DFI site--04/06/2006. You do have the 623 bios, BTW.

 

Everything you want to know is here, just don't be afraid to use the search tool.

 

Good luck and good hunting.

 

Tommy

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Guest drteming

Stock vCores for the 939 opterons should run 1.35v. These new stepping opterons with the B9 and the BQ memory controllers seem to be pretty good. My 165 in my expert rig is poised for another 3G run as soon as I get off my fat butt and order a better heatsink. Right now I am running orthos at 2.6 GHz at 1.254v. This will likely become my everyday setting.

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Upgrading my system was a adventure.....

 

Got a vaccum cleaner to 'cleanse' the comp.

 

It had been nearly a year since i really took out the cover to do something inside . So, i was surprised that i had put so many connectors to power the DFI. 4 to be precise. Wrote them down on paper so that i check them off before powering on the revised system.

 

Got the old 3700+ and the OCZ sticks out and plugged the new opteron and muskins.... Now, my first road block!!

 

The height of the mushkins, did'nt do well with the BiG Typhoon :( And the worst part is that, i get to know this when i've seated it on the processor! So, i took the risk of tightening it though it touched the RAM Sinks.

 

Every thing back........ powered on the system. And in 5 minutes, the system restarts :mad:

 

I was paranoid at that point. Believe me, getting this stuff from US to India was a movie in its own. And after all that, i get to this point where another good component had to be junked for now.

 

Took out the Big Typhoon and replaced it with the stock AMD cooler. Every thing went fine. But after the luxury of the typhoon, the stock cooler was CRAP.

 

The Opteron 180 was hitting 49 - 54 in idle :eek2:

The astonishing part is that there was a 6 degree swing in 'IDLE'. I was very careful to seat the processor..... exactly two ricegrains of AS5 etc..... The system was stable though.

 

I called it a day and this morning, couldnt stop thinking about the temps....

 

I had to get the big typhoon back on the comp and 'bending' the copper tubing (so that it does not touch the RAM ) was out of question. Now, the only option was to strip the Mushkins off their heatsinks and voiding warranties......

 

I did take that risk and stripped them off. And i was surprised to look at the sub-standard ..... 'sticker' used to secure the heatsink on the RAM..... i've seen the OCZ ads, the corsair ads.... talking about 'RAM Sink Technology'..... its all marketing BS and an excuse to just cover up the model number of the chips being used.... of course you get a good looking RAM Module, which is choking, unable to breathe properly....

 

void_1.jpg

 

I just scratched the sticker to check what its made of.... well i see the RAM trying hard to breathe through three layers of 'plastiky material'.

void_2.jpg

 

The system is up and happy now. The RAM is the riskiest component cos they have no warranty now. This is India and US is far far away. So, it matters a lot to me..

 

Idle temp of 37 - 38 C

Load temp (two instances of prime 95) of 42 - 43 C

 

I'll just use this system for the week end and think about overclocking it the next...

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DFI users, i need some help here.

 

Can i just go ahead and pop in two more sticks of the same Mushkin Redline (model # 991493) without . off my mobo?

 

My finances allows me to do only this one upgrade and may be one with the graphic card some where next year. I still believe the Opteron + 4 GB + say a Radeon 5xxx series would keep it working smoothly with games in say medium candy for the entire 2010.

 

Planning for a upgrade to Windows 7. Hence this thought of going up on the RAM.

 

Please advise.

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DFI users, i need some help here.

 

Can i just go ahead and pop in two more sticks of the same Mushkin Redline (model # 991493) without . off my mobo?

 

My finances allows me to do only this one upgrade and may be one with the graphic card some where next year. I still believe the Opteron + 4 GB + say a Radeon 5xxx series would keep it working smoothly with games in say medium candy for the entire 2010.

 

Planning for a upgrade to Windows 7. Hence this thought of going up on the RAM.

 

Please advise.

 

I'm running windows 7 on 2x1GB (both with a dual core, and a single core + lanparties). It runs fine. 4x1GB is a little work to get running. My opty 144 would do it without batting an eye (even heavily overclocked), however, it was a bit more work to get it running on my 180, before one of the sets of memory started having problems.

 

If you're going to try, the same modules will be easier.

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I'm running windows 7 on 2x1GB (both with a dual core, and a single core + lanparties). It runs fine. 4x1GB is a little work to get running. My opty 144 would do it without batting an eye (even heavily overclocked), however, it was a bit more work to get it running on my 180, before one of the sets of memory started having problems.

 

If you're going to try, the same modules will be easier.

 

Well that is exactly what i'm shooting for.

 

New egg is listing this RAM on a 'on and off' basis. Luckily its still the same model number and timings. Only thing that scares me is after buying the sticks, i get to know that it was a bad decision.

 

Spending 90 USD makes sense rather than spending a bomb on a new system....

 

Wanted to confirm this with other DFI mobo users if 4 X 1 GB of the SAME RAM is fine.

 

Still holding back on the purchase and will wait for you DFIers to comment.

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