saint-francis Posted July 1, 2007 Posted July 1, 2007 I am now ready to water cool my DFI 975 x/g. right now I have a Tuniq Tower and a giant passive heat sink on my video card. I also have the HR-05.The system is almost silent. My psu is very quiet so the loudest component is the HDD. I want to cool the cpu and nb with water. I have no size restrictions as I have an open air system. Here's a picture of what I'm working with. I am thinking about placing a 240 mm radiator on the left side with a shroud and 2 fans. So I need to know about pumps, radiators, shrouds, reservoirs, fans and water blocks. I want the system to be as quiet if not more so than it is now. So the choice of fans is important. Also I know some pumps can be noisy. I would also like the system to be able to cool a video card in the future when I upgrade. An other option is for me to use 2 pumps, a 360 mm radiator with 3 fans of any noise level and put it all in the basement which is right under the system. I could just plumb it right through the floor. I am concerned about the cost but I do understand that this will be a costly venture. My point is that while I want to do this right I don't want to just throw money away on all kinds of jazzy equipment. I currently have an E 6600 but in the future I will be upgrading to a quad core but I don't think that this has any impact on my choice of water blocks. So what blocks should I use for the cpu and nb? Lots of questions I know. Please feel free to be creative in your suggestions. I am open to exotic ideas that will help me cool my pc quietly and at the same time be an enjoyable project. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
radodrill Posted July 1, 2007 Posted July 1, 2007 A single 360mm RAD should be enough to cool CPU + GPU. I personally use the LIANG D5 (Swiftech MCP655) pump and it's actually quieter than my HDDs. In terms of quiet fans; you could use 6 low-flow Yate Loons (3 push + 3 pull) across the RAD. If you're going to upgrade to a quad CPU then you might as well get the Swiftech Apogee GTX WB for it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LookBackX2 Posted July 1, 2007 Posted July 1, 2007 Radodrill is offering very solid advise. :nod: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CPDMF Posted July 1, 2007 Posted July 1, 2007 The components radodrill has chosen are very nice. The D5 is pretty much silent. Throw in a fan controller for further adjustment of noise level. I prefer a T-line in silent loops, best bet with an open air system. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
General Septem Posted July 1, 2007 Posted July 1, 2007 The components radodrill has chosen are very nice. The D5 is pretty much silent. Throw in a fan controller for further adjustment of noise level. I prefer a T-line in silent loops, best bet with an open air system. Can you put a pump on a fan controller? I know AC motors lose torque when you try to adjust the voltage, but I don't know about DC motors. I know it wouldn't be as much of a problem for fans. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
radodrill Posted July 1, 2007 Posted July 1, 2007 Can you put a pump on a fan controller? I know AC motors lose torque when you try to adjust the voltage, but I don't know about DC motors. I know it wouldn't be as much of a problem for fans. The D5 actually has a regulator on the back of it. Technically you could put a pump on a fan controller; but I wouldn't recommend it. If you need more precise control over the pump, it'd be better to wire in a PWM regulator. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
General Septem Posted July 1, 2007 Posted July 1, 2007 The D5 actually has a regulator on the back of it. Technically you could put a pump on a fan controller; but I wouldn't recommend it. If you need more precise control over the pump, it'd be better to wire in a PWM regulator. The Sunbeam uses PWM if I'm not too much mistaken, are you referring to something different then? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
radodrill Posted July 1, 2007 Posted July 1, 2007 The Sunbeam uses PWM if I'm not too much mistaken, are you referring to something different then? Many fan controllers are potentiometer/rheostat based implementation of a voltage divider thus just reducing the fan voltage. Newer fan controllers may be using PWM though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
General Septem Posted July 1, 2007 Posted July 1, 2007 Many fan controllers are potentiometer/rheostat based implementation of a voltage divider thus just reducing the fan voltage. Newer fan controllers may be using PWM though. I don't fully understand, don't PWMs reduce fan voltage? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
radodrill Posted July 1, 2007 Posted July 1, 2007 I don't fully understand, don't PWMs reduce fan voltage? No; PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) pulses the power supply at the full supply voltage, to adjust the motor supply it regulates the pulse length and time between pulses (if you check it with a dmm it would appear to be a lower DC voltage). The advantage of PWM is that since the motor is driven at the full scale voltage it can operate the motor at speeds slower than achievable by just reducing the voltage supply; because motors have a min start voltage. With PWM the motor is always kicked with a voltage that is higher than the min start voltage, but the average voltage may be less; allowing the motor to be started/controlled at much lower speeds than achievable with analog control. The same is true with light bulbs; try slowly turning up a wall dimmer (these are voltage divider based), you'll notice that there's a point at which the light kicks on, but then once it's on you can dim the bulb below that level. Edit: See also http://diy-street.com/forum/showpost.php?p...65&postcount=11 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
grafton Posted July 1, 2007 Posted July 1, 2007 get tha thermochil pa 120.3 if you want the best rad out there Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
saint-francis Posted July 1, 2007 Posted July 1, 2007 Why use the MCP655 and not the MCP355? The MCP355 has 2x the head. And what WB should I get for the NB? Also CPDMF mentioned a T line. Could some one please elaborate on this? T line where in the loop? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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