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If case temperatures were warm, the surface area of the res could cause the water to be warmer than it otherwise would.

 

Possible, maybe; but it's not very likely for there to be a significant temp difference between the ambient air and the air inside the case.

 

Anyways, the tubing has a larger exposed surface area per unit volume; so if there were temp effects due to high temps inside the case, most of the infiltration would be through the walls of the tubing rather than through the RES.

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right i decided to go with the T-line method and after 3 rebuilds it running nice and cool.

after my first go my temps went up to 69 idel degrees before i noticed it , i thought i had put the waterblock on wrong , i re did it and temps were around 47 idle ,

i could not understand it so i did a bit of looking around and i then mounted my rad the other way round so that the barbs were at the top and not the bottom as they had been, my temps are now nice at 30 idle and 36 full orthos load.

i think my problem was that my rad was not filling up so the water was not cooling at all.

anyway thanks for all your help and ideas . everything is nice and cool now.

one more thing i have not aquired a Fill-Port as yet , as such my T-line is open ended , is this ok till i get a fill-port ???:):)

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one more thing i have not aquired a Fill-Port as yet , as such my T-line is open ended , is this ok till i get a fill-port ???:):)

 

Leaving it open isn't all that big of a problem, but I would strongly suggest getting some sort of plug to prevent any unwanted spills or unwanted dust and other misc. from ending up in your cooling loop.

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res = tline

tline = res

there is no difference using or not using one.

 

if your worried about your waters heat capacity and see that after usage, your waters avg temp is higher then when you start your pc.

YOU NEED ANOTHER RAD, or a bigger one to handle the load.

or you can just live with it. cause the water temps will go down eventually on idle for a hour or two

 

if you wanna cheap out on a fillport? just fold the line twice and ziptie it.

 

you say your gonna use a tline. heres some advice if you havent mounted it yet.

unmount your rad from wherever the hell it is.

while filling the system or if its already filled. shake it, upside down left right and get air out.

no air = no slooshing pump noise

 

coolant.. thats a preference, i use pc ice myself. but alot of other people use distilled. preference.

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There's an idea I never thought about, rather unorthodox; but it would work.

 

itll never leak. i can tell you that. lol

1 fold can leak. but two.. no. sry no mess here.

 

 

oh ya. woot post 1000. woot. i feel special. dur dur dur

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itll never leak. i can tell you that. lol

1 fold can leak. but two.. no. sry no mess here.

 

 

oh ya. woot post 1000. woot. i feel special. dur dur dur

 

Congrat on your 1000th post man. Your advices surely help a lot people (I'm one of them :D)

 

 

I thought the pump will contribute some heat to the fluid, won't it? Isn't it better to go from pump -> rad ->WB -> pump?? Just curious

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lol a pump heats is nothing compared to your cpu or gpu.

i hate how people bring that up.

please read my post earlier about how... GET A BIGGER RAD. ya..

 

 

edit- going rad wb

or wb rad, is the same thing.

only difference itll make. is how your tubes look.

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