New To Watercooling

[CrAsHnBuRnXp]

CPU WB: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5588/ex-...Waterblock.html

 

GPU WB: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5487/ex-...ce_8800GTS.html

 

Chipset WB* (?): http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2062/ex-...l?tl=g30c89s149

 

Tubing: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2266/ex-...ear_Tubing.html

 

Coolant: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5599/ex-...Steel_Blue.html

 

Reservoir: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2226/ex-..._and_38_ID.html

 

Pump: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2128/ex-...?tl=g30c107s155

 

*Not sure if my 8800GTS will fit over/inbetween that.

 

Is there anything else im missing? I feel as though there is. Mind you I will be overclocking. as heavily as I can.

 

Also, say I were to get AMD's new dual or quad core. Will the WB still work for the new CPU? I would say no. Just want to make sure though.

 

Say I cant water cool the chipset right now. Also say that when I got a new system where I could water cool the chipset, how would I work that in? Would I have to buy a new pump or anything? Im not to bright when it comes to water cooling so bare with me.

 

I more than likely will either be building an AMD quad core within the next 6 months or an Intel quad core. This must be kept in mind.

 

Also, I have the ThermalTake Armor case.

 

Budget is no more than $400. No more than $300 if it can be helped. Feedback is welcomed. Rig is in sig.

[radodrill]

Check out www.petrastechshop.com they have very competitive pricing (IMO better than FrozenCPU).

 

You're missing the most important part of a H2O loop; the radiator. Considering that you want a Quad CPU + 8800GTS; you'd need at least a 360mm (3 x 120mm) RAD or 2 240mm Rads.

 

The Swiftech Apogee GTX should handle an OCed Quad CPU.

 

I'd avoid the Koolance GFX block; Koolance is known for poor quality H2O components. Stick with either DangerDen or EK-waterblocks for full-cover GPU blocks.

 

In terms of coolant, I'd recommend using Pentosin and mixing that with distilled H2O.

 

With regard to tubing, keep in mind that it's sold by the foot. On average it takes about 10' for one case.

 

Adding/removing waterblocks is simply a matter of re-arranging the tubing.

 

The MCP655 (LIANG D5) pump will easily handle a this loop.

[CrAsHnBuRnXp]

Is the radiator external or internal? Or can it be either? Id like for it to all be internal if possible.

 

Does that Apogee support both Intel and AMD? I coudlnt exactly find the specs on teh site I listed and PTC says its Intel only?

 

What with the size of the fans and the amount, how loud or silent will it be? I want something that will cool great and allows me to overclock as high as I can push it and yet still remain quiet. If possible of course.

 

What size tubing to you recommend?

[radodrill]

The Radiator can be mounted either internally or externally. Internal mounting often involves some form of case modifications such as cutting blowholes. One of the cleanest solutions I've seen for external mounting is the Swiftech RADbox; it allows you to hang the RAD right on the back of the case.

The ThermalTake Armor listed in your sig is not well suited for an internal RAD (unless you either move the HDD cages or put in a new top panel without therir vent/fan system). The easiest with that case is to hang the RAD on the back from the 120mm exhaust fan mount.

 

The hardware included with the Apogee GTX only works with the LGA775 socket; however, Swiftech does sell a replacement hold-down plate for Intel Xeon socket 603, 604, 771 and AMD socket 754, 939, 940.

 

 

Radiator fans are selected based on RAD dimensions (i.e. 360mm RAD requires 3x 120mm fans). 120mm fans are inherently quieter than 80mm fans and are also most commonly used for radiators and increasingly more for case cooling as well.

The case itself should have at least 1 intake and 1 exhaust fan to maintain airflow for the passively cooled components (RAM, HDD, PWMIC, etc.); some of these fans can also double as RAD fans.

 

I prefer using the 1/2" ID tubing (the bigger the better; less restrictive) but many people go with 7/16" ID because it's easier to route; however, the ends must be heated to get them onto the 1/2" fittings.

[CrAsHnBuRnXp]

Ive seen a pic of the radiator on the outside of the TT Armor case and I think I can deal with that, but if it has 3 fans inside of it, I dont see how all three fans can suck out air from the inside of the case if all three fans dont have holes to suck the hot air out. (get what im saying? Sounds a bit confusing i know)

 

What purpose does the radiator serve? Does it actually hook up into the watercooling? Or is it just 3x120mm fans? Dumb question, but is the radiator necessary? Wouldnt the provided case fans be enough if that were the case? (radiator not being needed)

[p0tter]

I wouldnt go with a fullcover block and go with a triple rad if you are cooling gpu and cpu.

 

www.petrastechshop.com is a very good seller, after using them they are the sole place I get my W/C gear from.

[CrAsHnBuRnXp]

I wouldnt go with a fullcover block and go with a triple rad if you are cooling gpu and cpu.

 

Why?

[radodrill]

Ive seen a pic of the radiator on the outside of the TT Armor case and I think I can deal with that, but if it has 3 fans inside of it, I dont see how all three fans can suck out air from the inside of the case if all three fans dont have holes to suck the hot air out. (get what im saying? Sounds a bit confusing i know)

 

The Swiftech RADbox is installed between the case and the RAD. This creates a gap that allows air in to be circulated through the RAD.

 

What purpose does the radiator serve? Does it actually hook up into the watercooling? Or is it just 3x120mm fans? Dumb question, but is the radiator necessary? Wouldnt the provided case fans be enough if that were the case? (radiator not being needed)

 

The Radiator is a crucial element in a H2O cooling loop. As the H2O flows through the waterblocks, the heat from the CPU etc is being absorbed by the H2O. The Radiator is a heat exchanger that serves to extract the heat from the H2O and transfer it to the air passing through it. Same exact process than takes place in an engine cooling system.

 

With passive and air cooling the air is pulled across fins on the heatsink to remove the heat from the chip. In a water cooling loop the H2O absorbs the heat and transfers it to the radiator, which has fins through which the air can absorb the heat.

 

The whole point in H2O cooling is that it's more efficient than air cooling. with a standard heatsink the heat must travel through it's mass and into the fins before it can be removed. In contrast, H2O conducts heat a lot better than copper. In the H2O process, the heat is transferred into the water, the H2O is moved to the RAD and transferred directly into the radiator's fins. Basically allowing the heat to go directly from the CPU into the fins resulting in a lower temp at the CPU.

[radodrill]

I wouldnt go with a fullcover block and go with a triple rad if you are cooling gpu and cpu.

 

Why?

 

Fullcover blocks are somewhat more restrictive than regular GPU blocks; and with most GFX cards you wouldn't have much of a performance difference between a full-cover block and using a GPU block with RAMsinks

 

If you're cooling the CPU and GPU a dual (240mm) rad may not be enough; a triple (360mm) is a wiser choice.

[p0tter]

Fullcover blocks are somewhat more restrictive than regular GPU blocks; and with most GFX cards you wouldn't have much of a performance difference between a full-cover block and using a GPU block with RAMsinks

 

Yep, Ive learn from experience.

 

Ive had a 6800GT and 7900GT under Fullcover blocks and didnt gain 1 mhz more overclock than air (not volt modd'd). It dumps more heat into your loop and adds restriction.

[CrAsHnBuRnXp]

Here is what I am looking at now:

http://order.store.yahoo.net/ymix/MetaCont...ionId=ysco.cart

 

Since there a few items out of stock, I will link them directly:

 

Chipset* - http://www.petrastechshop.com/dadenmachwad.html

 

RAD - http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmcqposerab1.html

 

GPU - Probably going to be the Danger Den 8800GTS WB from Frozen CPU or somewhere cheaper

 

Coolant - not sure yet. Up for suggestions.

 

*Would this work with my current board even though it is not an Expert board? Would the 8800GTS fit in between it? It just barely covers the HSF on the chipset now.

 

Anything else that I am missing? Any other parts? Fittings? Anything?

 

Thanks for your feedback thus far. It sure is appreciated.

 

Do I still need ramsinks for the GPU?

[radodrill]

Please link items directly as I can't load your cart.

 

Almost all waterblocks etc include fittings; but you may need to purchase hose clamps separately.

 

Probably the best choice for coolant is the Pentosin and add some Biocide.

 

Bottom line about the GPU cooling; if you get a standard WB, such as the Maze5, then you'll need RAMsinks; if you opt for a full-cover block then you don't need them since the WB actively cools the RAM as well.