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t_ski

I opened the mod shop today

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Well, I haven't forgotten about this project, but I've been so busy I just never got time to finish it up. PLus, I've been testing so many heatsinks and stuff that going back to watercooling would be just a pain. With the looming possibility of testing some new WC gear, I needed to install the ol' loop to get some baseline numbers to reference.

 

So I took out the fans and built a simple loop with just the Storm, D5 and the Swiftech rad using Tygon 3603.

 

p1070430ez7.th.jpg p1070433qc9.th.jpg

 

The rad sits on top of the fans on top of the case. I had to go with this method because the openings on the rad for the barbs are a different level than the fan mounting surface. I had a 1/8" shroud I was planning on using, but the wacky M3.5 screws Switech includes weren't long enough.

 

p1070432ng9.th.jpg p1070435go9.th.jpg p1070436ey6.th.jpg

 

That Tygon is so soft and supple, it's hard to work with. Good thing I had the coolsleeves laying around, or my tubes would've been all kinds of kinky (well, except the good kind of kinky). I do still have some MNPCTech mesh I'm planning on using around the rad to tone down the fans, but it has the holes in there to still let some light through.

 

It would have been nice to have some quick disconnects in there, but the ones I had I never used so I ended up selling them. Plus, I need to figure out how to work it with the back barb being right by the MOSFETs and stuff (probably going to use a 22 degree elbow if I do). Of course, the best part is temps have dropped way down, even on this cool G0 stepping E6850. Idling at roughly room temp, and load is probably only around 32-34 C.

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Thanks. I'm still on the fence about whether or not to put a window in. I want one, but then again I don't. I had an idea of reusing the mesh fan grill from the top and putting it on the vide to where it could blow cool air onto (or exhaust hot air away from) the video card, then putting a window around that. I definitely don't want a full window, because I don't like the cables and stuff from the bottom showing. At most I'd want a 2/3's window like the ones at Performance PC's:

 

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/ind...oducts_id=21900

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Well, I haven't forgotten about this project, but I've been so busy I just never got time to finish it up. PLus, I've been testing so many heatsinks and stuff that going back to watercooling would be just a pain. With the looming possibility of testing some new WC gear, I needed to install the ol' loop to get some baseline numbers to reference.

 

So I took out the fans and built a simple loop with just the Storm, D5 and the Swiftech rad using Tygom 3603.

 

p1070430ez7.th.jpg p1070433qc9.th.jpg

 

The rad sits on top of the fans on top of the case. I had to go with this method because the openings on the rad for the barbs are a different level than the fan mounting surface. I had a 1/8" shroud I was planning on using, but the wacky M3.5 screws Switech includes weren't long enough.

 

p1070432ng9.th.jpg p1070435go9.th.jpg p1070436ey6.th.jpg

 

That Tygon is so soft and supple, it's hard to work with. Good thing I had the coolsleeves laying around, or my tubes would've been all kinds of kinky (well, except the good kind of kinky). I do still have some MNPCTech mesh I'm planning on using around the rad to tone down the fans, but it has the holes in there to still let some light through.

 

It would have been nice to have some quick disconnects in there, but the ones I had I never used so I ended up selling them. Plus, I need to figure out how to work it with the back barb being right by the MOSFETs and stuff (probably going to use a 22 degree elbow if I do). Of course, the best part is temps have dropped way down, even on this cool G0 stepping E6850. Idling at roughly room temp, and load is probably only around 32-34 C.

 

 

 

Looking great SKI! Awesome work!

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Guest Blooz1

That's incredible, ski!

 

The rad almost looks like it's "levitating".

 

I think you're right about the window size. A smaller window would look great, but a full-size window would be too much on that case. I've seen pics of cases where people made full side panels out of plexi on that series of Lian-Li's (and did a good job), but to me it ruined the whole "look" of the case.

 

If you had a window that just showed from the GPU-up, it would look great with the lighting from all those fans!

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I definitely don't want a full window, because I don't like the cables and stuff from the bottom showing. At most I'd want a 2/3's window like the ones at Performance PC's:

 

I'm with you.

Even the 2/3s windows at ppc look "too big" for my taste.

But those Blue LED fans and hoses are screaming for a window.

 

(Lian-Li rig to t_ski) DUDE! YOU FINALLY FINISH AND NOW YOU WANT ME TO WEAR A CHADOR!

I NEED A SEXY WINDOW TO FULFILL YOUR MANLY NEEDS!

 

So there you have it.

Done deal.

Can't ignore a case that talks (shouts)

 

Like a 50-60% window centered on the upper rear of the case :)

maybe somethin' trick.

heard about some "dang t_ski it's uber kewl ZOMG that is so friggin' awesome and l33t" 2-way mirror stuff and you can brush your teeth and come your hair when the rig is off in the mirror. :D

 

The "levitating" radiator/fan reminds me of a hood scoop.

velly velly nice

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How much force did it take to remove the cap off of the P5W DH's chipset cooler?

 

That little piece of thin aluminum? Nuttin' at all. Stuck on with double-sided tape, and I just took a screwdriver and lifted one edge, then ripped it off. I did it with the heatsink off, when I did my civic duty and replaced the TIM with some Ceramique. I did the SB heatsink the same way...

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Are those fans on the radiator pushing or pulling? Im thinking of modding the top of my case too and I was wondering what would work best - push or pull.

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What works better is to have the cool air go into the case. It you have the hot air exhaust through the rad, you have all the extra case temp to enter the loop. Whether that means pushing or pulling depends on how you stick the rad and the fans. It would be even better to have six fans on the rad - three pushing and three pulling.

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