Need some input on corrosion.

[GutBuster]

Hello all, need some input. The system in my sig is the system in question, I am currently running "Fluid XP" which seems to be a thicker fluid then most, mainly to keep the pumps lubed or some jazz. Here's my question, it's been about 12 months since the fluid was changed so I bought new tubing and fluid to do the swap, now, I've noticed some sediment in my fluid.... the "Fluid XP" that was originally put in was blue in color, NOW it's clear, and I'm thinking the sediment is the coloring? Maybe it's wishgfull thinking hoping it's not corrosion. The reasion I think it's NOT corrosion is on my danger den CPU block, the inlet that has the nozzle, theres a plate with fins and that looks like it's gunked up with a very light blue substance, but the channels that go down to the outlet, still looks like clean copper. So basically what I'm asking is, #1 has anybody had any experience with that particular fluid and corrosion? #2 If my blocks were corroding would/could it just be in certain spots? Or would all the copper in contact with the fluid be turning green? My fluid tank has only been opened 2-3 times to top off the fluid, it's been kept shut tight ever since.

 

Thanks in advance!

[radodrill]

The primary source of corrosion in H2O loop is using mixed metals (i.e. copper WB and Aluminum RAD).

 

Premixed coolants (and engine coolants) contain additives to help prevent corrosion in mixed-metal loops.

 

Most likely it's the coloring agents that have settled out of the fluid.

[grafton]

hey radodrill, how far are you from morgantown?

[radodrill]

hey radodrill, how far are you from morgantown?

 

I live in the neighborhood of Suncrest. Not far from the Evansdale campus; just outside of Star City.

 

For me; about a 20min bike ride to downtown.

[axia]

Well you could just run it on sentinel x100 with a food additive color should last 10 yrs or so without any degradation..

 

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.js...=79683&ts=54466

[GutBuster]

Most likely it's the coloring agents that have settled out of the fluid.

 

Is that normal over a certain period of time? Could I have a slight clog somewhere? Maybe I'm just worrying too much.

[radodrill]

Is that normal over a certain period of time? Could I have a slight clog somewhere? Maybe I'm just worrying too much.

 

It's quite common.

 

Over time clogs can build up in the WBs so it's best to clean them out with Vinegar every so often (probably at least once a yr) and either clean/replace the tubing.

[carholmes]

Yea its not corrosion many people useing that fluid xp crap noticed white film on thier res, white particles floating in thier tubing, and the blue coloring disapearing. I'm surprised you haven't seen anything like this sooner. There was someone who posted on another forum who noticed junk in thier loop within a week of filling his loop. link. Your best bet would be using Pentosin G11 + some biocide + distilled water. When you use coolants that are meant to be mixed with water you can control how much coolant you want to add. If you want lower temps and have little concern for corrosion add more water than usuall, and if you want maximum protection from corrosion (or if you have a aluminum rad) add more coolant. This solution is much cheaper and much more affective than many premixed coolants.

[GutBuster]

It's quite common.

 

Over time clogs can build up in the WBs so it's best to clean them out with Vinegar every so often (probably at least once a yr) and either clean/replace the tubing.

 

Which is the best fluid to use? (pre-mixed or DIY mixing) I'm running koolance pumps and I'm affraid that fluids like "FluidXP" and "MCT-5" are maybe too thick? When the system was first installed it ran great, temps in the 30's (idle), but over time they started to heat up. I have all new tubing, AS5, fluid (MCT-5.... will bring it back if need be) going to clean all the blocks and pretty much redo everything. Planning on taking my chipset cooling block out of the loop and getting a copper air cooler for that, just to make the loop that much shorter and short of another heat source. Would that be worth it IYO? I know this thread is going a little off topic but at least I have some one's attention

 

Another question if you don't mind. Which is the most effective?

 

Pump ---> Blocks ---> Radiator?

Pump ---> Radiator ---> Blocks?

[GutBuster]

Yea its not corrosion many people useing that fluid xp crap noticed white film on thier res, white particles floating in thier tubing, and the blue coloring disapearing. I'm surprised you haven't seen anything like this sooner. There was someone who posted on another forum who noticed junk in thier loop within a week of filling his loop. link. Your best bet would be using Pentosin G11 + some biocide + distilled water. When you use coolants that are meant to be mixed with water you can control how much coolant you want to add. If you want lower temps and have little concern for corrosion add more water than usuall, and if you want maximum protection from corrosion (or if you have a aluminum rad) add more coolant. This solution is much cheaper and much more affective than many premixed coolants.

 

Thanks for the reply, I'm definitely thinking about going the distilled route. And yes, my radiator is aluminum.

[GutBuster]

Wow, thanks for the link carholmes, I'll be ripping apart the whole system to clean it out thanks to that crap fluid. You have me pretty set on distilled and pentosin g11. A question for you though, since you seem to have more experience than I (obviously)... given that my radiator is aluminum, what is the safest ratio to ratio mixture of distilled to pentosin? Is it that the distilled will corrode the aluminum? Also, reading your links, I see most people are using a couple drops of PT Nuke in their mixtures, is it safe to use 3-5 drops to be safe? I know I'm about a pain in the a** right now to you guys but I really do appreciate the feedback.

[carholmes]

First of all you should consider getting a new copper rad. And to tell you the truth I am not all that experienced. I have yet to put together my first loop. I first got interested in water cooling about four months ago and I have been doing research and reading ever since. The only thing holding me back from starting my first loop right now is money. So I may not be able to give you alot of answers.

 

It may help if you list all of your water cooling components.

 

The instructions on the PT Nuke says to add one or two drops for every liter of your coolant mixture. The recomended ratio for Pentosin G11 is one part G11 to nine parts distilled water. If you get a copper rad and you are sure your loop is not mixed metal you may not need a anti-corrosion colant. Some people have G11 in thier loop anyway, maybe just to be on the safe side or just for the blue color.

 

Anyway your first priority (besides cleaning out your loop) should be to get a hold of a copper rad. Depending on what kinds of fans you want to run (being either low noise or high cfm fans) and what size, a copper rad will set you back $25 - $150

 

Considering your computer parts you are cooling, I woud recomend getting at least a double rad, or maybe a triple. If you upgrade your video card or cpu to something hotter you'll be covered with a triple rad. If you want to use low noise fans and still get good cooling you should stick with Swiftech and Thermochill PA series rads. But if you want to use high noise and high cfm fans you should stick with HW Labs Black Ice series rads.

 

I hope I've helped and good luck.

 

Rads Here G11 and PT nuke found here