Ultra-d, Freezing and boot problems.

[moforila]

My problems began the last time I did a bios flash.

 

The current bios is the latest version from the dfi site. 2006/04/06

 

I have the bios set to optimized settings, no overclocking, on extra settings.

 

I have windows xp 64 bit installed, thats been on for a while so its getting a bit cluttered. For no apparent reason the system would freeze.

This would usually happen before login or soon after. Once windows had log in and got past a few minutes of use it didn't freeze.

 

This only happened sometimes, so i would just restart and try again. This problem however got worse and would happen a lot.

The machine would need to be hard powered off, which caused it to not boot (3 leds). To solve this I would unplug power to PSU and leave it off for a 10 minutes, its like the something needed to be discharged. Sometimes an overnight power off was required.

 

Has any one seen this happen before?

 

Back to the freezing, I did 12 hours of prime testing and memtest all good.

 

So i reinstalled windows xp and the problem seem have stop until today.

 

The freezing had start, and I cant get back into windows, I am using linux atm.

 

I will be doing some stablilty testing tonoght on linux.

 

But this is still confusing me, what can be causing these lockups, since the hardware seems fine?

[Kingfisher]

memory timings and/or power supply

[signmeuptoo]

UPS or surge protector could be problematic, they fail you know. Supply may be failing or flaky. HD could be very quietly developing errors (don't count on SMART, it seems to be useless). HD power and/or data cables loose/intermittant/flawed. Flaky drive controller. Dirty RAM slots/RAM not seated as well as needs be/RAM dieing...

 

I had this issue with my Antec TP II 430, the supply would read normal but it wasn't. Only sophisticated dynamic load tests revealed the ensuing failure mode. Supplies today endure much tougher loads and conditions than they used to.

 

Also, you just MIGHT have dirty house current. The step down transformer feeding juice to you home could be crappy. AC or heating or washer dryers or refridgerator or even entertainment center line noise might be bothering the power supply. (You need a high speed oscilloscope and step down probes to read such a thing to detect such conditions, or a power line monitor that some more well heeled electrician's might own (they are expensive as hell). The power company might run a test on your house power if you think you have a problem and can prove it somehow. Even noise from your immediate neighbor's homes can pose a threat! House current is very communal, if you will...

[moforila]

Kingfisher, If the timmings were the cause of the problem wouldn't it show up in memtest.

The timmings are set to auto which is picked up by the bios as default 3-3-3-8.

 

About the dirty power, This is a OCZ oversupply that has 5 years warranty and has seem solid since I got it.

Any way to test the PSU, I dont think checking the rails are correct will help thought.

 

signmeuptoo, the power going to the PSU is straight from the wall socket. It is not being shared or surged protected.

 

The funny thing is that when power consumption is at its maximum like prime testing I have not seen it freeze, Its only freeze prior to OS load or staright after with in 10mins.

 

Another thing, my OCZ PC4000 vx gold is really give me the crap, It doesnt work at its rating, 250 with default timmings and 3.2 it fails memtest. Like wtf I paid like twice the prices for this set.

Bloody OCZ waste of money, and I know its going to be an ordeal to get it RMAed.

[bldegle2]

"my OCZ PC4000 vx gold is really give me the crap"

 

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

 

you will get better results when you ferret out the correct ram timings, the one thing i can tell you is the DFI boards are solid when you get this worked out.

 

there are many posts regarding this, even here.....

 

DFI can humble you or make you look like a champ, it just takes research, a lot of reading, massive rebootage.....................

 

also, just so you will know, the OCZ unit you have is not on the approved listing, i believe the approved units start with the 520w flavor, so you may be lacking in that department, yes, it can make a difference....

 

laterz,

 

baldy

[moforila]

See the thing is ram rated at a certain speed should run at that speed, because thats stock.

 

You buy any other set, stick it in and it works at stock or its an RMA, but something must be magical about this OCZ set, since it needs extra settings to have it run at stock, and no way in hell are you going to push it past stock.

 

Thats called overclocking ram, other brands give you stock then let you play with it to get better performance. OCZ sells you a set rated at a speed that needs to be achieved by tweaking.

 

Honestly, after hours and hours of this crap I just cant be stuffed.

 

About the PSU, I have gone into this before, The minimum wattage is relative, to what the current market is selling.

 

In the orginal printed manuals, which I have, state 400w is minimum, then the forums up it to 450/480 6 months later and then to 520 a year laters.

 

It doesn't matter, work it out by adding all power usages up, 1 hdd, 1 video card, 4 fans, 1 drive does not need 700W.

 

I know it can make a diffrence for that dude running a SLI rig, 12 fans, 8 HDD and heating his room via USB.

[bldegle2]

"See the thing is ram rated at a certain speed should run at that speed, because thats stock."

 

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

 

you need to do some extensive research, there are specific settings and secondary timing settings that the SPD on many modules doesn't address and they will perform like krap on a DFI board. visit extreme forums (a very good place to get some insight on your particular ramski) for some good help, and this site here (diy-street) will give you some uber settings if you search properly, then there is OCforums.....................and DFI global support forums.......and many more.....................

 

here is a rather nice posting that should help, and it is from this site:

 

http://www.diy-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20823

 

and here, hope this one works, it is the results page of a search i did for you over @extreme:

 

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/search...earchid=3413828

 

i apologize if i offended you (or if you have read the particular threads i posted above), but i have been tweaking with DFI for a while, i read a ton, paid attention to what people used and what settings worked the best, there are so many reports of disappointed users swearing their system was the worst thing in the world, they stumble across the 'correct' ram settings or other settings, and bingo............then they slobber tons of thanks you's, a complete 180 from what they were complaining about.....

 

i agree with the PS thing, there are proly many of lessor ratings that will run a basic DFI rig just fine....

 

maybe you should just get another 939 board, the DFI does require a bit of tweaking to maximize, you may not have the patience needed to get good results...

 

laterz,

 

baldy

[moforila]

I'm not offended at all, my tone is just bad because of this crappy OCZ set.

 

I know those extra settings are important, and they may get the ram working at its rating. I have done all this before, printed out pages of different settings, tired them all and I remember not being too happy with the results.

 

I don't know about other people with this set but mine can not be pushed past 250.

 

I have read a lot of articles in the past about the meanings off all the settings and how to get the best results.

 

I was really into all this before, now I just don't have time and its all a bunch of numbers, also the fact that a $1000 core 2 duo system can rape my rig doesn't help.

 

I will give it another go, but I still think, that the only settings required "should" be the timmings 2-2-2-8, voltage and frequency.

 

Your right about me not having the patience, I like my dfi board but hate my OCZ set, switching boards would do nothing, except limit me to 2.8v to the dims.

 

I just want to finish off my rant about OCZ.

 

I previously talked to the OCZ support guys trying to figure out why my ram was running crap and why it wasnt able to be pushed pushed to 250 with low timmings.

 

They were saying things like, play around with the settings make sure you have a fan on top of the sticks, try these billion diffrent settings to have it work at stock.

 

These guys seem to be basically picking out the best chips, checking they run at overclocked speeds in optimal conditions and leaving no room for error.

 

I have seen a geil ultra-x set pushed to ddr600 at 2-2-2-5, with less work then I put into getting mine to work stock.

[Kingfisher]

Moforila,

as far as memtest not showng errors, that's all good but you can still be windows unstable even after passing hours upon hours of memtest. Sometimes this can happen because either your voltages are off a bit or some secondary timings are not quite right.

I have found that setting certain timings on auto is not really a good idea.

 

OCZ RAM is solid, I have had great results with my set. If you feel their tech support is not helping you then drop Ryder an email and he will certainly get you some good results the best he can.

Don't give up on OCZ just yet, give Ryder a chance to help you. He and Andy are reps in our OCZ memory section.

You power supply should be adequate to power your set-up, but DFI recommends at least 480w for a reason.

 

DFI boards can be a bit of a pain, but alot of folks miss out in that it should be a fun learning experience if you let it. I know it's easy to say, but if you find yourself getting frustrated, take a break then get back at it.

Good luck to you.

[moforila]

I agree, this DFI board has been the best learning experience ever, far out ways all the frustrations it has caused.

 

I will try get a new PSU for testing and see what happens.