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EllisD

1st Watercooling Setup. Bigger Rad? or...

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I have just purchased a little watercooling setup from 2 different threads here on the forums. This being my first setup, i just wanted a little input. What i have purchased is:

 

- Danger Den TDX 939

- Black Ice Pro Radiator

- Black Anodized Fillport

- Danger Den 12V D5 1/2 OD

- 120m pabst fan

- Low Profile Acetal Version MAZE4GPU.

 

So from this, i am going to be cooling my CPU and X1900XT only. Everything has 1/2" fittings.

 

The stuff is going to be shipped shortly so i have been thinking of what i need to get to be prepared when the stuff arrives. The seller of the CPU kit said that he would send me the tubing and clamps he used but because of the placement of his stuff, and the unknown placement of mine, i am going to get some extra tubing to be on the safe side. So far, what i think i need is:

 

- 12" ID Tubing, dunno, maybe 6-7 feet

 

- Some sort of liquid. I have seen the 'special' liquids like MCT-5 that are non-conductive, prevent algae growth, helps pump life, etc, etc. I have also heard to just use distilled water + anti-freeze combination. What is the general consensus on the path that i take when it comes to liquid? Or is it just 'if you want it simple and done, but spend a little more, just buy the pre-mixed stuff'.

 

- Rad? This is the real point of this post. My x1900xt can get pretty hot when loaded for extended periods of time. As well as my CPU being overclocked almost 50%, should i look at getting a 2x120 rad? Or will the 1x120 be sufficient?

 

- Syringe. Im guessing since i will be using a fillport as opposed to a res, i should snag one of these to make the process a little easier.

 

 

One thing i know for sure, is that this is gonna be fun, and a learning experience. Im gonna steal the camera from work here and take some pics of the process. The final product will be put in the case pic thread, so keep your eyes on it! :D

 

Suggestions welcomed and appreciated.

 

Thanks

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I got a 3x120mm rad and I'm only disappointed that I didn't go for a second one.

 

Watercooling is expensive compared to aircooling. IMO, if you're going to do it, do it big. Nice waterblocks, powerful pumps, huge rads. :D

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I'm waiting on the parts for my first WC setup too, good luck with yours! I have MCP355 pump with the Petra top, 2x120 rad, Koosah waterblock (need 1 more) and hopefully DD RDX cpu block... also looking into a chipset block that will fit under my video card... don't know which ones will fit...

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2 ellisd

getting 2 x 120 rads will reduce your flow rate a bit (more connections=more turbulance/restictions) so using a 1 x 240 rad is better.

get your self around 10 or so feet of tubing it don't cost much in the long run and to run out during a install would f##k me off no end and would probably do the same to you.

then theres the fluid de ionisd water with auto cooland will do nicely the fancy stuff is well just fancy stuff sure it's non conductive but if you have a leak then your parts a fried anyway so save your money for some quality clamps, i use cable ties(when testing parts)or worm drives (final build)depends where and what machine.

one thing nobody seems to stress that when filling MAKE SURE your pump DOES NOT run dry EVEN for a instant it will be the death of it.

a small funnell will do the trick and if you have an old psu sitting around with a on off swich at the back it's much easier.

a silly question do you know how to jump a psu cause you don't want to power the board when doing thie filling.

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Considering the CPU + GPU cooling; you'd definitely want the 2x120mm RAD.

 

Just to make sure the tubing works out right; I'd get 10ft and just replace everything.

 

I personally like the plastic snap clamps rather than the worm drives.

 

I'd use a funnel rather than a syringe; but that's personal preference.

 

The Distilled H2O + engine coolant works well (I use Zerex). IMO the premixed coolants are a waste of money and don't offer any better performance; the distilled H2O is extremely less conductive than tap H2O anyways.

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Thanks for the suggestions guys.

 

It seems like i still need to work on my terminology, lol. By 2x120 rad i meant one that had 2x120mm fans, or a 240 :P

 

So im looking at picking up a Black Ice GT Xtreme 240 w/ 12" barbs, 10' of tubing, & some fancy purple UV dye (think it would look good with my blue coolermaster fans) The premade liquid stuff isnt too bad at $20 a bottle and if the antifreeze + distilled water is only a little less, i will just get the premade stuff cause i will get all the new stuff from the same place, so its just easier.

 

Should be ready to go in about 2 weeks, then its time for the big overhaul :D

 

EDIT: Oh yea, im reading and re-reading lots of tutorials on watercooling and kinda know how to jump a psu. This is the only part that im somewhat :eek: :confused: about. I have an old psu laying around that i will practice with. Im also still trying to figure out what would be the best way to leak test. With everything attached to the hardware in my case (not running of course) and jumping the pump with a second PSU, or with the loop assembled outside the case (so i can still use my pc while leak testing). The second method i think will be trickier cause i need to make sure that all the hose is cut properly, and im sure trying to fit a fully assembled and filled loop would be tough.

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a 3x12- rad means same flow and better cooling. :D

 

Be careful jumping the PSU. If what you use exerts pressure in the left and right direction(like a paperclip, you'll mess up the PSU's connection to the board(it'll be looser).

 

I turned my computer on with the watercooling all hooked up outside the case, and the pump plugged in. I left tissues by each connection to make sure there were no leaks, then when I finished that, I plugged it in.

 

As far as filling it up, IMO, jumping the PSU is for chumps. I plug it into a fan controller, and turn the knob up/down depending on how much water I am pouring into the res. If I have too much water, I turn it up, too little water, turn it down and pour faster. It's so much better than the guides I'e read that say to fill it up a small bit, turn the pump on, turn it off, and continue doing this. It'll take forever to fill the loop up that way.

 

I use distilled water and some 91% isopropyl alcohol as antifreeze. WHen it's warmer, no alcohol. It evaporates out since the system is right next to a window eventually anyway, so it gives my loop a nice cleaning then leaves. I don't usually recommend spending extra on something but a gallon or two of distilled water, because if anything happens and you want to add/change a component, it's a pain in the butt to save the fluid. Not to mention, it's much better to spill distilled water than it is to spill colored sticky goo.

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I personally do the filling/leak testing inside the case ; simply because it's easier to get the WBs in and then connect the tubing while they're in place.

 

I honestly don't do a long leak test; I just run the pump until most of the bubbles are out of the line before turning on the system.

 

I just put together a new H2O rig for my prof and I'll post some pics in the case pic thread (probably this evening).

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As far as filling it up, IMO, jumping the PSU is for chumps. I plug it into a fan controller, and turn the knob up/down depending on how much water I am pouring into the res. If I have too much water, I turn it up, too little water, turn it down and pour faster. It's so much better than the guides I'e read that say to fill it up a small bit, turn the pump on, turn it off, and continue doing this. It'll take forever to fill the loop up that way.

 

Unless your fan controller can handle the power draw of your pump, (not many can) and your controller can provide clean power for the pump, I wouldnt do that. Fan controllers have a tendency to take nice, clean DC PSU power and fudge it up to some rippled DC.

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I just use a reservoir and it is filled up in a matter of a minute or two...just fill it up and turn it on....then repeat once or twice until it is full.

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if you got an old AT style psu there the best for filling up they have an on of switch build in also if you try and jump a modern psu ether it wont work (under current protection) or you might fudge it, again under current. i assemble every thing correctly and in place then remove the mobo for leak testing putting paper around the blocks and joins will show any fluid coming out. if your using a t-line and fillport you wont go right to the top so put a cable tie/piece of tape round the fluid level for a guide to see if your using any fluid. some loss is normal through leaching into the tubes(very minamal) and evaporation.

using premix can get a bit expensive as you need to change you fluid every 6 months or so also its a good idea to run some line cleaner through the system first before you do the final fill(vineger works)

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