DRAM LED not being lit, not booting

[Computer101]

The problem is that whenever I shut down the computer, the DRAM LED does not light up. I have gone through 4 PSUs now, all of them will power other systems... First one was a Antec NeoPower 480w, then I got a PC Power and Cooling Silencer 610w, then I used a Seasonic S12E+ 650w, and I tried a Antec TruePower 2.0 380w. I REALLY doubt it is the PSU, I have swapped ram, and tried with no ram. But everytime I shutdown the computer only the standby LED comes on, the DRAM LED never goes on. The only time I can get it to go on is if I take out the 24pin and re-insert it over and over, and eventually the DRAM LED WILL light up, and thats the only way I know how to get this working. So you guys tell me, what else could be the problem? I asked about this same issue on another thread, but noone replied, so I really want to get this fixed, and I need some help.

[THEnumber337]

I have the same problem as you do. Instead of taking out the 24pin Power Cord you can turn off and on your power supply and that should do the trick too. Right now I'm in the middle of performing the Long CMOS Clear (link in my sig) because I was told in another thread that it helped someone that had the same condition.

[Computer101]

I have the same problem as you do. Instead of taking out the 24pin Power Cord you can turn off and on your power supply and that should do the trick too. Right now I'm in the middle of performing the Long CMOS Clear (link in my sig) because I was told in another thread that it helped someone that had the same condition.

 

I did a 20hr CMOS Clear. Hooked up all 4 power connectors. Turned off PSU. Moved the CMOS jumper to Clear, and pulled the battery out. left it like that for over 20hrs. Then I left 1 stick of ram in the 2nd ram slot (1st orange one) and loaded optimized defaults. That didnt help. And I cant managed to flick the PSU button on an off to make the LED light up. The 24pin strategy works everytime, eventually. And I have a 120mm hole in my case since I cut a 120mm fan when my NeoPower 480 PSU was installed, and when I bought the Silencer 610w, it was really long and the 120mm fan had to go. So I plan to put a window on it, and mount a 92mm fan on top on the window. Anyways. This didnt help me, next tip?

[THEnumber337]

No idea, sorry. I hate having the board just not boot up when I push the power on button. It's rather annoying. I wonder what the problem is.

[thefabe]

Two of the power supplies would not work on your board, but the other two should have beem fine. I would have used the PC power and cooling psu and done a minimul build outside the case following the initial build guide to the letter. If you still can not get it to boot up properly then you may have a problem with your board since.Try this first step by step. http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread...ial+build+guide

[thefabe]

I have the same problem as you do. Instead of taking out the 24pin Power Cord you can turn off and on your power supply and that should do the trick too. Right now I'm in the middle of performing the Long CMOS Clear (link in my sig) because I was told in another thread that it helped someone that had the same condition.

You need to start your own thread. Your setup is totaly different than his. Your using a USB keyboard and mouse. known to cause issues during the initial setup of a system. You need to folow the initial build guide and build out of the case using a ps2 keyboard and mouse.

[Computer101]

It sounds as if you may need to RMA your board. Two of the power supplies would not work on your board anyway but the other two should have beem fine. I would have used the PC power and cooling psu and done a minimul build outside the case following the initial build guide to the letter. If you still can not get it to boot up properly then you may have a problem with your board since the leds seem to be functioning impropperly. Tr this first dtep by step http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread...ial+build+guide

 

This is my 3rd DFI Nf4 Build. I have built 2 SLI-DR systems and now my own Ultra-D. I have taken the mobo tray out, used 1 stick of ram, and took the PSU out and thats it... No CD-rom or anything else but the essentials. I can sorta see a dim light coming out of the LED, but its not completely lit... just one spec of it is orange. This is annoying I think I'm going to just get the Crossfire DFI board off of newegg for $60 then RMA this one. And use it for a backup mobo/ another computer since I have an old Winnie 3000 laying around. Im a sucker for 939 systems. :nod:

[thefabe]

Sounds like a plan

[ricerocket]

I agree, sounds like a mb issue. I wish with all the DFI connections on the board we could get some answers about these power supply issues. UPS just delivered my new Corsair 520watt. The system has been runing flawlessly for the last week on an unapproved coolmaster 450. The antec sp-500 I took out will boot other systems, just not the DFI board. Swapping the PSU got my LED's to behave normally though. I think you system has other issues. Keep us updated when you RMA your board, maybe you'll get an answer.

[Computer101]

I agree, sounds like a mb issue. I wish with all the DFI connections on the board we could get some answers about these power supply issues. UPS just delivered my new Corsair 520watt. The system has been runing flawlessly for the last week on an unapproved coolmaster 450. The antec sp-500 I took out will boot other systems, just not the DFI board. Swapping the PSU got my LED's to behave normally though. I think you system has other issues. Keep us updated when you RMA your board, maybe you'll get an answer.

 

Will do, just gotta wait for until my next paycheck...

[Regalk]

I thought I would share some of my experiences with the Ultra-D. I experienced the no boot problem like some people around here (4LEDs) at one time or the other and tried just about everything recommended - long clear cmos a few times, new OCZ 600W PSU etc. Nothing worked and it made no sense to keep throwing good $$ on this board since I had other spare boards in any event. After a bit more research I decided to do a hot bios swap/flash and it worked with a 350W generic PSU I have for testing. The "long" cmos clear I do now is easy - just shut down, switch off the PSU and immediately hit the PowerSw on the MB just before the power dies to drain off any remaining power. It seems that the bios chip is easily corrupted on these boards causing no boot issues (reminds me of a $1.50 part on a BMW). I am not holding my breath though.

Up and running again and I abused it for a bit just to make sure it was not a fluke. I find anytime you fiddle with this MB - either changing cases, RAM ,video card etc you are begging for trouble so unlike my several other non0Dfi boards.

I have seen recommendations to people to keep purchasing/swapping parts out for dfi-street recommended - this method will eventually work (as it should) but at what cost!

Well life is getting busy for me now so hope you guys are able to have a happy computing year - I am off..

[OneArmed Badger]

I've just had a similar problem to Computer101. My Antec NeoPower 480w was working fine for 18 months, then I switched it off at the mains. Big mistake. When I switched it back on the power led on the mobo was lit, but not the DRAM led. Bizarrely, the power led on the case was on. Pressing the power buttons did nothing at all. After about half an hour the power led on the case went out and the DRAM led slowly came on. After a while pressing the power button caused all four red leds to flash briefly and the fans twitched, but no boot.

 

I've just installed a new NeoPower HE 550w and its now booting normally. So, my problem is solved.

 

The old NeoPower 480w seems OK. It comes on when I connect the Power On pin to ground and will spin fans using 5v and 12v connections. It just won't boot the PC. I'll RMA it and see what Antec have to say.