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ShadeZeRO

Anyone have a mitsubishi HDTV?

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happy, how is the convergence on your set? i have to adjust mine (both sets) every week or so if i want the crispest picture.... get annoying after a while, but, for $400, i cant complain.

 

shade: BEEYOOTEEFULL set man!

 

ya I have to adjust it regularly

 

about a year ago the lamp burned out and had to be replaced, and the guy adjusted it after he fixed and we've simply not adjusted it since then, so it is starting to look a little ragged.

 

but it still makes HD hockey and HD Xbox360 look great ;)

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do you know of videopictorial on wherehow to do this? i know how to solder fairly competently.

I was able to upload a couple of pics of the convergence ICs from the service manual. The ICs are IC8C01 and IC8C02. First time attempting this is probably a 3-4 hour job for someone not familiar with the internals of a Mitsubishi. And if not done correctly will result in a $400.00-$500.00 service call.

 

outputwi4.jpg

 

layoutti2.jpg

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cool, thanks for the pix! i'm not skeert... i had to COMPLETELY disassemble my TV to get it into my room anyways.... for some god forsaken reason, my bedroom door is a CLOSET door, E.G 26" vs 31" wide. i may try this.... maybe i can W/C and over clock it while i'm at it.....

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man thats cool...I have a RCA that the convergance is out on...(horizontal)

 

I have a Mitsubishi 60" projection and I havent tried any games on it other than Playstation (the real old one)

 

This thing is a tank... the kids alway slam off of it running thru the house...I havent adjusted it since I got it over 2 years ago... and it's still very clear...;)

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What's great about the Mits sets is what you can do with them. I've got the factory software. Just hook the set to the computer and a complete low level calibration can be done. There are all kinds of settings and adjustments that aren't available through the on-screen settings. A handy feature of the software is recalibrating the on-screen adjustments. Using the contrast as an example. Before calibrating with the software I would set the on-screen adjustment so it is centered. Then calibrate the contrast with the software and lock it. If anyone messes with the on-screen setting just move it back to the centered position and it's back to the calibrated output.

 

I've got a pair of 65" sets. I had to reflow the solder for the convergence ICs on the one before it was a year old. The other one I've never had a problem with till this week. Monday morning when I turned it off it was fine. Turned it on Monday evening and nothing. It turns on for 3 seconds and shuts off. It shows a code 22. With the symptoms and code I'm pretty sure whats wrong with it. I'll have to try to fix it this weekend.

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I was wondering if I could fix the convergance on the RCA box...(it's a 80's model) but if it has to be soldered it maybe best for a pro...I am no good at soldering... I guess I could learn..???

 

I really like my big screen...I got it new for cheap and havent had any issues with it at all...;)

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Are the mitsubishi's a good brand for hdtv?

Everyone has their favorite brand. But properly calibrated, a Mitsubishi is hard to beat.

 

Picking the correct one is a little more complicated then it used to be. You'll find sets at places like BestBuy and Circuit City that look identical and have almost the same model number as sets in high end A/V stores. But there a difference in quality and capabilities between them. They are still excellent but I don't think you can elevate those sets above any other brand's high end sets.

 

If the time table doesn't change, sometime late next year there will be a new product line from Mits. Instead of DLP or LCD they will be using lasers to reproduce the image. From what I've heard the quality is unbelievable.

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Seaside_Tyson

 

Unfortunately for me the part that was bad in my Mits was on the board with the convergence ICs. So while I had it out I snapped a few pictures.

 

This is the large heatsink for the convergence ICs. On the backside of the heatsink is an aluminum bar about 3/4" wide and the same length as the heatsink. Three screws secure it to the heatsink. The two ICs are clamped between these. This is looking back to front as you would see it looking at it from the rear of the tv.

 

01lw8.jpg

 

 

A little different angle.

 

02kp2.jpg

 

 

A front view of the two ICs with the heatsink removed.

 

03vq2.jpg

 

 

Backside of the circuit board where the two ICs are soldered.

 

04zw7.jpg

 

 

A closeup of one of the ICs solder pads.

 

05nd9.jpg

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I've not yet hooked up a decent vid card that can do HD output through the composites yet...but i bet it is pretty hardcore for gaming (especially the new 1080p lcd's)

 

You're not missing that much. The steps over 1280x1024 all have a higher vertical res than 1080.. so I can't use them, but I do waste a lot of horizontal screenspace. If 1920x1080p compatible games come out, it would kick butt, but for now, if I do get into gaming, I think a used higher res LCD would come in very handy. Plus, 1920x1080p gaming for bigscreen TVs would be awful due to overscan, I get about 1824x1020 useable resolution here, and this TV is supposed to be GOOD at not overscanning too much. Nothing too important is put there for TV so you'd never notice(infact more retarded stations that don't crop the video love this, so they can leave all sorts of static and garbage on the edges), but in gaming, you'll probably get killed a lot more with an HDTV if you run at the true res..

 

Then there's the issue of using a program that costs extra money to set the new non-overscanning res into windows if you're unlucky enough to use an ATI card that doesn't allow you to input custom resolutions. The irony is that while the HDTV overscan controls work on my CRT(which doesn't need them, the options remove themselves in the ati control center for my HDTV.. and their tech support isn't helpful much at all. heh.

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am i seeing things, or did they actually get SO hot that it singed the PCB?

The pads are discolored from the heat but they aren't hurt . The ICs get extremely hot. That's why the service manual specifies a maximum/minimum value for HSTA and VSTA. The farther those values get from zero the more current the ICs draw.

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