Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
green-man

advice on my first h2o rig

Recommended Posts

I got some PrimoFlex 3/8x5/8x1/8" tubing for my rig, along with some PrimoChill reusable plastic tubing clamps, and after Fluid XP+ "so-called" Red Flame[Flaming Flamingo Pink Hemorrhoid, not "red" at all!!!] clouded and permanently stained my Tygon tubing, clogged my radiator with red waxy deposits, clogged my water block, fouled up the inside of my Delphi water pump, … I had to buy a new radiator, after multiple flushings with heated white distilled vinegar and heated distilled water never got out all the Fluid XP+ contaminants and re-stained my new replacement Tygon tubing! I bought some PrimoChill PC Ice in UV Green, ran some tests using a digital multi-meter and ran those against leftover Fluid XP+ Red Flame and Alien Green, then also tested some pure steam distilled water and regular tap water. Out of all those tests, the new formula for PC Ice came in closest to pure distilled water as far as being less conductive electrically; even better that Fluid XP+!!! PC Ice also runs clearer than Fluid XP+ dyed coolants and lacks the nasty waxy deposits found in Fluid XP+. There are others on forums having the same problems after using Fluid XP+ dyed coolants, so I’m not alone in this one. The Alien Green Fluid XP+ isn’t as bad as the others but the PrimoCHill PC Ice still tested better as a non- “less” conductive coolant vs. Fluid XP+ Alien Green. I’m never using Fluid XP+ again, especially after contacting the makers of the stuff and being told I’m SOL.

 

Inside of my rig looks much better now, using PrimoChill PC Ice and PrimoFlex tubing. I have some Tygon on order; expecting delivery any day now but I'll most likely use it for my next build since the PrimoFlex is working out very nicely for me:

PC070013.jpg

 

BTW, Tygon does make some chemical resistant tubing that may be less prone to cloding and stains. I ordered some from one of their affiliates and I'm awaiting delivery. I'll let you know how that works out for me. In the meantime, you might want to check out the Tygon Website and look at the .pdf specs for their chemical resistant tubing for your rig. I think it might be here, if I remember correctly but I'll check later and let you know the product number.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I got some PrimoFlex 3/8x5/8x1/8" tubing for my rig, along with some PrimoChill reusable plastic tubing clamps, and after Fluid XP+ "so-called" Red Flame[Flaming Flamingo Pink Hemorrhoid, not "red" at all!!!] clouded and permanently stained my Tygon tubing, clogged my radiator with red waxy deposits, clogged my water block, fouled up the inside of my Delphi water pump, … I had to buy a new radiator, after multiple flushings with heated white distilled vinegar and heated distilled water never got out all the Fluid XP+ contaminants and re-stained my new replacement Tygon tubing! I bought some PrimoChill PC Ice in UV Green, ran some tests using a digital multi-meter and ran those against leftover Fluid XP+ Red Flame and Alien Green, then also tested some pure steam distilled water and regular tap water. Out of all those tests, the new formula for PC Ice came in closest to pure distilled water as far as being less conductive electrically; even better that Fluid XP+!!! PC Ice also runs clearer than Fluid XP+ dyed coolants and lacks the nasty waxy deposits found in Fluid XP+. There are others on forums having the same problems after using Fluid XP+ dyed coolants, so I’m not alone in this one. The Alien Green Fluid XP+ isn’t as bad as the others but the PrimoCHill PC Ice still tested better as a non- “less” conductive coolant vs. Fluid XP+ Alien Green. I’m never using Fluid XP+ again, especially after contacting the makers of the stuff and being told I’m SOL.

 

Inside of my rig looks much better now, using PrimoChill PC Ice and PrimoFlex tubing. I have some Tygon on order; expecting delivery any day now but I'll most likely use it for my next build since the PrimoFlex is working out very nicely for me]

PC070013.jpg

 

BTW, Tygon does make some chemical resistant tubing that may be less prone to cloding and stains. I ordered some from one of their affiliates and I'm awaiting delivery. I'll let you know how that works out for me. In the meantime, you might want to check out the Tygon Website and look at the .pdf specs for their chemical resistant tubing for your rig. I think it might be here, if I remember correctly but I'll check later and let you know the product number.

 

The clouding up concerns me a bit. I have only been running this watercooling for about a month, so it shouldnt be clouding up the way it is. I changed out the coolant for fresh mct-5 when I replaced the w/b and the old fluid did'nt look bad, just the tubing. I have heard the primochill ice is actually preaty conductive despite thier claims, but maybe they revised it. I'd definatly like to get some tubing that doesnt cloud up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Unless your motherboard has four mounting pins, that northbridge block is a piece of ..

 

I don't know the name, but there's one shown on xtremesystems that has clips, like that one, but with these screws that mount onto the clips.. so it actually has some force holding it down.

 

The tubing'll rip the block right off the northbridge if your motherboard has a mere two clips.

 

I do think it's worth it, though. Without loud airflow around the chipset, at higher voltages at full load with high overclocks, it gets really hot on air cooling. You could put a fan over it, but this defeats the purpose of watercooling in a way.. to quiet down the system and use water, not air.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The clouding up concerns me a bit. I have only been running this watercooling for about a month, so it shouldnt be clouding up the way it is. I changed out the coolant for fresh mct-5 when I replaced the w/b and the old fluid did'nt look bad, just the tubing. I have heard the primochill ice is actually preaty conductive despite thier claims, but maybe they revised it. I'd definatly like to get some tubing that doesnt cloud up.

 

I've been finding that even the clearest of fluids that contain UV reactive dyes will eventually do some clouding. Fluid XP+ is the worst, but not so much their UV Alien Green. The other colors contain more of a white waxy substance that clouds even the best of tubing and the dyes permeate the tubing as well. If you do look at the Tygon specs, check out various tubing they make. The water cooling standard has been R-3603, sold by most vendors. A closer look at the specs will reveal that in some sizes their tubing doesn't reach the pump PSI maximums and when it gets warm that blow-out point gets even lower. For example, my Delphi pump puts out 22 PSI, while Tygon R-3603 Laboratory Tubing in 3/8x1/2x1/16" tubing is only rated at around 20 PSI. This is a factor that many water cooling supply vendors don’t supply in the product descriptions for Tygon, but it’s a very important aspect imo to consider. The other is maximum temperature before failure, and the same Tygon tubing is well rated at 165F/74C, which is well beyond the max CPU temps most people will see at load. Tygon 2075 at the same tubing size, although chemically resistant, only has a maximum pressure of 13 PSI and a max recommended temperature of a measly 125F/52C, which in itself is almost less than half my pump pressure and at only 52C many CPUs can reach this while loaded easily in a hot room. I’m going to be getting samples of the Tygothane C-210-A Precision Polyurethane to ry as well, in the 5/8” OD size that’s not even in the product spec sheet. Tygothane appears to be slightly milky in appearance and not completely clear, at least in the product catalogue, so it will be interesting to see if it’s any clearer when I do get it. The max pressure is a much higher 33 PSI and a working temp of 200F/93C and 175F/79C prolonged, so the specs themselves show it to be a better contender for water cooling pumps and systems. Even with a high durometer of 82, Tygothane in the size above. it retains a minimum bend radius of 1-3/4”, a fairly big loop of nearly 4” diameter. The other thing to look at is the water absorption rating [lower numbers are better]. If the tubing absorbs water, then it’s obviously going to absorb dyes and additives contained within the coolants.

 

Here are a few ratings for water absorption and Tygon tubing:

Tygothane C-210-A = 1.12

Tygon 2075 Ultra Chemical Resistant = <0.01

Tygon R-3603 = 0.24

 

As you can see, the Ultra Chemical Resistant tubing absorbs far less water and as such should be a better candidate for cloudless/stainless tubing, but the other factors such as PSI and max temps are lower than the others. I’ll soon be running tests on all three, then putting the results up against some stock tubing from water cooling supply vendors and some PrimoFlex tubing I’m using now. I’ve spent a great deal of time researching the clouding phenomenon and I’ve contacted many manufacturers for product samples on which to perform various tests. I’ll be sure to log all my tests and relative findings as soon as I get the tubing samples, then I’ll be back to post the results herein.

 

Oh and BTW, where you'd mentioned "I have heard the primochill ice is actually preaty conductive despite thier claims, but maybe they revised it.", I've seen the same reviews most likely [big Bruin and PimpRig, to name two?]. Those reviews were performed some time ago and PrimoChill PC Ice has had changes made to the formula since then. That's why I tend to take those reviews and then run my own tests, at a time when I plan on trying/using the actual product. After a very bad experience with Fluid XP+, despite a couple of good reviews that talk only about the conductivity, I no longer trust in what those reviewers said about PC Ice and my own tests on the most recent version showed me un- questionably that PC Ice is by far a better product than Fluid XP+. I have yet to run tests on MCT-5 or 40, so I cannot comment on how well it works or does not work, but once again those that did review it show it as a pretty good product.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

nice rigs chaps. i'll try borrow sum1's digi camera and thak a few pitures as i start modding.

 

im less fussy about the prittyness so standard clear coolent will be fine for me. i dont fancy hav sum cemical-reactions going down that i dont understand. that would be . me off a treat to nightshadow.

 

i cant beleve that none of the fluid producing company hav a true inert coolent yet. im sure i saw a very high spec computer a few years ago, well maybe only a year im not 100% sure. it was using inert coolent back then, it might hav been a savrow pc.

 

cant i just use distiled water and anti-freeze. that was my orignal idea? would be a lot cheaper, as all the current coolents are water based eneyway.

 

cheers for the advice thasp to mate. i did remember reading that in one of ure post sumwhere before. im hopeing that the new dfi3200 will be out before i hav the time to install, as thats got 4 mounting points. but if it hasnt made it to the shops i'll give it a go eneyway on my infinity, dispite ure good advice;) . if i want to do sumthing that bad i can be very resourcefull. so i will get back to u if i find a good way.

again hopfully i wont hav to though. come on dfi3200:)

 

nice 1 FXed those h2o adsorption ratings for the tygon are v helpfull. the stuff im gonna get is the r-3603 tubing, so nice low absorption 0.24:)

 

radodrill i would bother with ure wires thay look cool like that, then again night's rig does look so nice and tidy. i'd be happy eather way. i also assumed that u went for ure intel cpu because u do loads of incoding as their still a bit better compaired to c2d's when o/ced.

 

going back to the amd/intel thing i was talking about earlyer. i sold my opty144 , dfi 3200dr & 2x 512 xms4400 to my friend for £330, so i only really paid for my ddr2 ram. it was a fairly cheap upgrade, as upgrading goes.

what i was trying to get at is, when at 3.4-3.6Ghz intel c2d speeds its like 4 times faster than my old o/ced 144 at 2.8Ghz . so with all ure badboy h2o setups u'd all be in heaven:angel: . with my old rig at 2.8 all my games ran nice a smooth like a few of u hav pointed out, pritty much 30fps and above.

 

naw on my new rig c2d, with the same single x1900xtx. all my games seem to bounce of theyre fps limiters. for example X3 the space game, it used to run on avarage say 35-55 fps. naw with my c2d setup it bounces off 75fps. both test were 1600x1200. im naw also running a better moniter but at 1920x1200 X3 still seems to only just bounce below 60fps, never less than 50fps. x3 is a very gpu based game as well so i wouldnt hav thought it would hav made so much difference. c2d's are just insaine when o/ced:drool: .

 

im going to try and order all the h2o stuff before the weekend, as ive got sum time off over xmas so i can setup then. if i order eney later i think i'd be lucky to get it all otherwise.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@green-man,

 

Since you are still finalizing your H2O plans; I've got a new-in-box MCW30 chipset cooler that I'd like to sell. I purchased it for my sigrig a few months ago, but it did not securely attach to my MB (Lanparty 925X-T2) and Swiftech does not want to RMA it.

 

If you would be interested I would sell it to you for 19 Pound-sterling (~$37 US), which would include Airmail (3-7day) postage to the UK; I paid $30US for the WB itself.

 

Please let me know (PM me) if you're interested.

 

radodrill

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
@green-man,

 

Since you are still finalizing your H2O plans; I've got a new-in-box MCW30 chipset cooler that I'd like to sell. I purchased it for my sigrig a few months ago, but it did not securely attach to my MB (Lanparty 925X-T2) and Swiftech does not want to RMA it.

 

If you would be interested I would sell it to you for 19 Pound-sterling (~$37 US), which would include Airmail (3-7day) postage to the UK; I paid $30US for the WB itself.

 

Please let me know (PM me) if you're interested.

 

radodrill

 

that would be a good deal for me, but i dont hav a paypal account or eney other account. so i would hav to send u a cheque then i'd hav to trust u'll send the block, or the other way round. eather way is bad for sum1.

also for the extra £4 i can get it delivered with all the other stuff im gonna order. hopefull before xmas. sorry mate cheers for the offer though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
nice rigs chaps. i'll try borrow sum1's digi camera and thak a few pitures as i start modding.

 

im less fussy about the prittyness so standard clear coolent will be fine for me. i dont fancy hav sum cemical-reactions going down that i dont understand. that would be . me off a treat to nightshadow.

 

i cant beleve that none of the fluid producing company hav a true inert coolent yet. im sure i saw a very high spec computer a few years ago, well maybe only a year im not 100% sure. it was using inert coolent back then, it might hav been a savrow pc.

 

cant i just use distiled water and anti-freeze. that was my orignal idea? would be a lot cheaper, as all the current coolents are water based eneyway.

 

cheers for the advice thasp to mate. i did remember reading that in one of ure post sumwhere before. im hopeing that the new dfi3200 will be out before i hav the time to install, as thats got 4 mounting points. but if it hasnt made it to the shops i'll give it a go eneyway on my infinity, dispite ure good advice;) . if i want to do sumthing that bad i can be very resourcefull. so i will get back to u if i find a good way.

again hopfully i wont hav to though. come on dfi3200:)

 

nice 1 FXed those h2o adsorption ratings for the tygon are v helpfull. the stuff im gonna get is the r-3603 tubing, so nice low absorption 0.24:)

 

radodrill i would bother with ure wires thay look cool like that, then again night's rig does look so nice and tidy. i'd be happy eather way. i also assumed that u went for ure intel cpu because u do loads of incoding as their still a bit better compaired to c2d's when o/ced.

 

going back to the amd/intel thing i was talking about earlyer. i sold my opty144 , dfi 3200dr & 2x 512 xms4400 to my friend for £330, so i only really paid for my ddr2 ram. it was a fairly cheap upgrade, as upgrading goes.

what i was trying to get at is, when at 3.4-3.6Ghz intel c2d speeds its like 4 times faster than my old o/ced 144 at 2.8Ghz . so with all ure badboy h2o setups u'd all be in heaven:angel: . with my old rig at 2.8 all my games ran nice a smooth like a few of u hav pointed out, pritty much 30fps and above.

 

naw on my new rig c2d, with the same single x1900xtx. all my games seem to bounce of theyre fps limiters. for example X3 the space game, it used to run on avarage say 35-55 fps. naw with my c2d setup it bounces off 75fps. both test were 1600x1200. im naw also running a better moniter but at 1920x1200 X3 still seems to only just bounce below 60fps, never less than 50fps. x3 is a very gpu based game as well so i wouldnt hav thought it would hav made so much difference. c2d's are just insaine when o/ced:drool: .

 

im going to try and order all the h2o stuff before the weekend, as ive got sum time off over xmas so i can setup then. if i order eney later i think i'd be lucky to get it all otherwise.

 

Thanks for the compliment. The setup looks a bit different now, as I added an 80mm exhaust fan, and the storm waterblock with 2 1 gig sticks of ram. I also replaced the tubing going from the rad to the waterblock, as the first one was not only a little too short, but it was cut a little jagged as well. Make sure when you cut you're tubing, that you cut it as clean and straight as possibe. Also, I am going to see if I can track down exactly why my tubing is clouding up, and do something to alleviate the problem. It is probably just due to the fact that the tubing is absorbing some of the chemicals in the coolant, and I hope that if I buy some form of tygon this will not happen.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

alright again people, i just need a tiny bit more advice before i order.

 

1 first thing is how much coolant will i need. this is the stuff im going for..

 

http://www.vadim.co.uk/Cooling+%26+Modding...atek+Protect+IP

 

will two bottles be ok??

 

2 second thing is how meny feet of taygon tubing will i need??. i was thinking maybe 6-7 foots worth what do u lot reckon??

 

cheers again chaps

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
alright again people, i just need a tiny bit more advice before i order.

 

1 first thing is how much coolant will i need. this is the stuff im going for..

 

http://www.vadim.co.uk/Cooling+%26+Mod...atek+Protect+IP

 

will two bottles be ok??

 

2 second thing is how meny feet of taygon tubing will i need??. i was thinking maybe 6-7 foots worth what do u lot reckon??

 

cheers again chaps

 

One bottle should be enough.. It took about half of the bottle of mct-5 to fill my system. I would recommend a good 10 to 11 feet of tubing. Better safe than sorry. Also, it will help to possibly have a little tubing left over in case you need to replace tubing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
One bottle should be enough.. It took about half of the bottle of mct-5 to fill my system. I would recommend a good 10 to 11 feet of tubing. Better safe than sorry. Also, it will help to possibly have a little tubing left over in case you need to replace tubing.

 

cheers night , ive just orderd.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×