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Testing connector with DMM

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Was that 12.38v under load or no?

 

Also, it takes more than .3 Amps to kill you. 5 amps when applied directly to your skin will kill you definitely, 1 amp properly applied within your body will kill you.

 

.3 Amps isnt much.

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Was that 12.38v under load or no?

 

Also, it takes more than .3 Amps to kill you. 5 amps when applied directly to your skin will kill you definitely, 1 amp properly applied within your body will kill you.

 

.3 Amps isnt much.

 

Well I didn't shut the system down or anything, so yes I guess it was under load.

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under load = measure the lines while right in the middle of say 3dmark2006 benchmark run when the system is stressing

 

Ah, you mean with the system under load. Alright, I'll try that.

 

EDIT: Yeah, that didn't make any difference. Like maybe .01V but that's it.

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Was that 12.38v under load or no?

 

Also, it takes more than .3 Amps to kill you. 5 amps when applied directly to your skin will kill you definitely, 1 amp properly applied within your body will kill you.

 

.3 Amps isnt much.

 

Actually whether or not it would kill you depends on whether it went through your body or not. I've had 120V go through my hand once while we were remodeling the kitchen and had outlets hanging out of the walls. My hand was shaking for about a minute but I was fine afterward.

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Guest erico
Was that 12.38v under load or no?

 

Also, it takes more than .3 Amps to kill you. 5 amps when applied directly to your skin will kill you definitely, 1 amp properly applied within your body will kill you.

 

.3 Amps isnt much.

.3 amps is 300 milliamps. That is a lot of current! Take a read on the net or in any electrical/electronics safety book. It will kill you. If you don't believe it.. give it a try but leave a note or will for your loved ones.

 

120 Volts AC is not quite as dangerous as DC voltage. It is Alternating Current and will normally throw you through the actions of your muscles from the source voltage. DC voltage/current does not give you that chance..it lets you stay where you put your hand or whatever part of your body. PC PSUs are powerful devices..especially the ones we use in our DFI motherboard.

 

If you guys want to play at being electrician/electronics technician without a little knowledge of what you are dealing with..its your own life you are playing with. You can't say you have not been cautioned.

 

The statements you have made speak for themselves.. you know next to zip about voltage and current.

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Guest erico
Which diagram was wrong?

 

If my PSU was wired wrong, can't I just rewire it? I don't want to pay shipping to get it replaced, plus I've had it for almost a year.

If it is still under warranty an RMA is best. If you feel confident enough in your abilities as a technician the pins are easy to extract and place in the correct slots. Don't use diagonal pliers to cut the wires. If you do not know how to extract the pins get someone who knows how to show you how. It is simple to do it right for an experienced person, but not so easy for an inexperienced one.

 

I assume this means that you know for PSU is definitely wired wrong. You can take a digital photo of it showing the wire colors and pins and post it here and then we can verify it. OCZTony(an OCZ Tech Representative) is a member of this forum. so he would be the forum member to contact.

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If it is still under warranty an RMA is best. If you feel confident enough in your abilities as a technician the pins are easy to extract and place in the correct slots. Don't use diagonal pliers to cut the wires. If you do not know how to extract the pins get someone who knows how to show you how. It is simple to do it right for an experienced person, but not so easy for an inexperienced one.

 

I assume this means that you know for PSU is definitely wired wrong. You can take a digital photo of it showing the wire colors and pins and post it here and then we can verify it. OCZTony(an OCZ Tech Representative) is a member of this forum. so he would be the forum member to contact.

 

No, it isn't wired wrong. I'd thought it was because of the diagram you showed me. But the plug is fine, and I put a DMM on it and it consistently reads 12.38V (load and idle). Maybe it was the card after all. :/

 

I'm not going to find out for a while though because I think this card's going back for a refund, and I'm not getting a replacement until I recover from the damn $50 restocking fee and also have a little extra for a new PSU should I need it. Yes I could RMA this one if it gives me more trouble, but for a lower end system it's served me well for almost a year, and I'll just get a GXS700 and build another computer for this one. :D

 

What the hell are they going to restock anyway, a cinder? :sweat:

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