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Watercooling my $19.99 case (t_ski's version)


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Unfortunately, no, I'm not done. :( Watsonte has asked me to add my cost of the watercooling parts to the list, so I will do that soon. As for the case modding itself, I spent ~$38 on the case (with shipping), $7 for the mesh, $7 for two cans of paint, $3 for the weatherstripping, $5? for the JB Weld, and $2 for another roll of masking tape. I still have to buy some radgrills and the plexi for the window, and I also bought a roll of chrome tape for $6 that I may or may not use inside the case. Again, I have not had to purchase any tooling at this point, including cut-off wheels for the dremel.

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Really fine work t_ski. Thread's got me all hot and bothered as well.

Some questions for you.

1) can you give us what the actual dimensions of the case are please?

2) how tall is the opening for the removeable motherboard tray?

I had a WaveMaster whose tray height was just a little too short, it required removing the fan from an XP-90 before I could pull it out.

Some of the newer HSF are just too tall to use the removeable tray.

Got a "t_ski Approved" ruler handy?

3) I'm not sure I'm following how you are going to increase the air flow through the front of the case to let the new 120mm reach it's full potential.

Are you cutting open the front bezel and using the moders mesh on it? Or increasing the size of the "slots", adding holes?

I thought someone had mentioned the front panel is "translucent". Will an LED fan behind the front panel give off a glow or is it too opaque.

4) Thinking the Dual 80mm's in the rear would be the way to go for an air cooled rig.

(Dual 90mm if possible)

Can you give it a quick look and see if it would be possible to move the PSU to the very top of the case and mount Dual 80mm fans below the PSU? Thinking that a PSU with a bottom intake fan and the Dual 80s might really help me with case air flow.

5) How does the side panel mount/connect?

I'm wondering about the feasibility of replacing the entire side with a piece of plexi rather than cutting a window?

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3) I'm not sure I'm following how you are going to increase the air flow through the front of the case to let the new 120mm reach it's full potential.

Are you cutting open the front bezel and using the moders mesh on it? Or increasing the size of the "slots", adding holes?

In the 6th post compare the first pic to the third pic. In the first pic you can see that there is a handle of sorts to grab the bottom of the front bezel. This actually goes all the way across the bottom of the case, and the only air that can come in is through the slots in the bezel. Now in the third pic that whole grab handle has been removed, as well as some extra portions of the bottom of the bezel. From the front it looks the same, but from the back and the bottom you can see that there is a lot more space for the air to move through.

 

I thought someone had mentioned the front panel is "translucent". Will an LED fan behind the front panel give off a glow or is it too opaque.

Yes, wangerin said it is translucent, and he plans on putting an LED fan behind it to give off a blue glow. I actually did not want that, plus the mod mentioned above may have scratched up the bezel too much to allow the panel to look good with light coming through it (without taking lots of time to sand it back smooth, that is).

 

4) Thinking the Dual 80mm's in the rear would be the way to go for an air cooled rig.

(Dual 90mm if possible)

Can you give it a quick look and see if it would be possible to move the PSU to the very top of the case and mount Dual 80mm fans below the PSU? Thinking that a PSU with a bottom intake fan and the Dual 80s might really help me with case air flow.

Yes, there should be enough room. I can measure it if you want to be exact, but by eye-balling it there seems to be plenty of room for dual 80's, not sure about the 92's.

 

5) How does the side panel mount/connect?

I'm wondering about the feasibility of replacing the entire side with a piece of plexi rather than cutting a window?

The side panel has clips like most cases do, but the panel goes in at a light angle, then swings into place. Of course it would be possible to use just some clear plexi on the side, as long as you have the time and the skills to figure it out right. maybe some piano hinge and some screws into tapped holes? What did you have in mind?

 

The other questions about the size of the case I will have to check out tomorrow oranother day this week, as I'm inside in the nice AC resting from a hard day of doing sanding and mudding on the new bathroom, as well as adding an outlet on the wall and swapping out the old box for the lightswitch (the old one wiggled around too much). Plus, it's raining out. :P

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well the front panel pictures certainly explain it well enough now that I look closely.

I don't think the scratches left by removing the handle will screw anything up for me.

Hope to have one in a week or so.

 

Gonna try moving the PSU and using dual 80mm below.

 

I'll have to check out the side panel before I can tell if a ful plexi side is do-able.

Really appreciate the info so far and if you do get a chance to do some measuring of case and mobo tray height it would be much appreciated.

 

I didn't notice a link to the case on SALE at SVC in the thread so I'll add it here for others.

It's in the clearance section.

 

DFI-street Link to SVC

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OK, I'm sorry for the delay Carl, but I have your numbers. The case itself meausres roughly 7.5 x 21.5 x 16.5 inches. The mobo tray to opening measures 5.25", and the total space from current PSU opening to the edge of the top panel measures 6 5/8".

 

Time seems to be getting less and less on my side, so updates are not going to be as big, and I don't have any pics right now. I have the front painted, the bottom painted, and the main side cut for the 120mm fans and now the window. I have a light coat of paint on it right now, and I will throw one more on before school, amybe a couple after. This paint seems to stay soft for a while. As I was painting the bottom I made a few marks on the top, so that had to be repainted. I'm finally starting to get a few bux together so I may have the radgrills soon, or at least one of them.

 

Unfortunately it looks like the upcoming three-day weekend will be spent mostly on the bathroom. Oy... :(

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OK, here goes. The inside with Carl's Chrome Tape:

 

dsc04541cu2.th.jpg

 

I've got the front fan installed and the wires for the reset switch and LED's sleeved. Here's the back:

 

dsc04542fl9.th.jpg

 

Here's the foam weather stripping applied to the inside top of the case:

 

dsc04544kh1.th.jpg

 

Here's a nekid shot of the front for you pervs:

 

dsc04545wk4.th.jpg

 

That's foil tape on there to help plug the holes and keep air from being recirculated by the front case fan.

 

And a mock-up of the window:

 

dsc04547zf0.th.jpg

 

The window is not installed yet because I haven't totally decided on the mounting method. I know I want something that doesn't show the screws through the side panel.

 

Here is the back of the front bezel. As you can see I added some more weatherstripping there to assist in the recirculation problem. Now air only will come through the bottom:

 

dsc04549ot3.th.jpg

 

Finally, here are two shots to show the case back together:

 

dsc04550ag2.th.jpg dsc04551lh8.th.jpg

 

I need to get my Radgrillz soon. I'm about $20 short in my paypal account to buy both. I don't want to buy just one now and the other later, since that will practically double my shipping charges ($6.35 for one and $7.05 for both). For the time being, I'm using some plain case fan screws to hold the ones in on the side, but I only have four black ones. I had to do some slight adjustments to the grill above the PSU location, as the mesh was a little thicker than I thought. I have the rad test-fitted in place right now and it looks decent.

 

Hopefully I can start moving into the case on Friday. :D

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