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glug.glug.hic

Dual Core Upgrade - Potential temp and voltage problem?

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Hey, no problem. Just did not want to come off as not appreciating the advice and insight. So, I can secure for a really really good price an Enermax SFMA V2.0 (20/24+6)P 485W NoiseTaker (EG495P-VE). Looked at the list and didn't see it but saw it's cousin.

 

Bios is 11/14/05 and I will update it.

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Glug,

 

I my opinion and with your rig, I would go with a;

 

OCZ PowerStream 520W or the OCZ GameXStream 600W.

 

To cover any future upgrades like the Expert or SLI, I would go with a OCZ GameXStream 700W

 

If you can swing it, those are super PSU’s. It’s a real good investment for your rig. Just creeping over the min watts does give you any room. Look at peoples signatures and see what they are using for these high end rigs.

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Does anyone see any issues?

My thoughts:

1. Should I have reformatted my drive after upgrading?

2. Is my PSU enough to support the extra core (was fine before)?

3. Do I need to blash my bios to something else? It does show the dual core.

 

1. I successfully swapped my 3700 San Diego to my X2 4800 without a fresh Windows install. I cleared CMOS, entered BIOS and reset to optimized defaults. Booted to Windows and removed the existing AMD driver, soft removed the processor via Windows Device Manager. Shut down, swapped cpus, reset CMOS and entered BIOS once again and reset to optimized defaults. At next boot BIOS recognized the new dual core processor. Booted to Windows and installed the latest X2 processor driver and dual core optimizer. Everything is chugging right along just fine.

 

2. I think this question has been successfully answered. The only thing I would add is if there is any way possible choose one of the following psu's when you buy your new one;

 

Fortron FX600

Fortron FX700

OCZ GameXstream 600W

OCZ GameXstream 700W

Any of the above units will give you all the clean power you need and should suit your needs for awhile going into the future.

 

3. Flashing your BIOS is up to you. If everything is working fine then it's not necessary. The BIOS you are using supports dual core processors. My personal favorite for the NF4 Ultra-D is the 0704-2bta, but be aware that if you flash and can't flash back for some reason DFI may not honor your warranty.

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I have my system plugged into a UPS that says I'm drawing less than 300W. I don't have an SLI board, have one GPU, one SATA, one PATA, a floppy and two DVD/CD drives.

 

Long Version:

Remember, that's measuring how many watts on 120V AC current you're drawing. Wattage = volts * amps, so with 120V you'd "only" need to pull 2.5 amps before you hit 300W. When a power supply says it's rated for xxxW, what it's really saying is that's the total wattage it can pour out on the DC side. So basically, to figure out where you are, you'd add up

3.3 * (current drawn on the 3.3V rail) (this would be a few components on your motherboard, and a little bit of the video card) + 5 * (current drawn on 5V rail) (this would be things like USB devices and the electronic parts of hard drives) + 12 * (current drawn on 12V rail) (this would be your fans, the motors that spin hard drives and optical drives, quite a bit of your video card and a respectable part of the motherboard). If that number is close to 300W, then you're in dangerland, as 300W is the maximum output of your power supply under ideal conditions, which is almost certainly not attainable in the real world.

 

Short Version:

 

"xxx W power supply" means that it can output xxx W, not that it draws xxx W from your household power.

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Well, finally home from work and made some quick changes to the fan settings in bios. So now these are my temps - with no load except for my typing ;-) I have all fans on based on 35C.

 

Temperatures:

Motherboard 44 °C (111 °F)

CPU 38 °C (100 °F)

North Bridge 47 °C (117 °F)

GPU 44 °C (111 °F)

GPU Ambient 40 °C (104 °F)

Seagate ST3200822AS 36 °C (97 °F)

 

Cooling Fans:

CPU 2812 RPM

System 1288 RPM

Chipset 7031 RPM

 

Voltage Values:

CPU Core 1.31 V

+3.3 V 3.20 V

+5 V 4.89 V

+12 V 11.65 V

+5 V Standby 4.92 V

VBAT Battery 3.09 V

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Much better. Now get a decent psu and watch those temps drop even further.

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1. I successfully swapped my 3700 San Diego to my X2 4800 without a fresh Windows install. I cleared CMOS, entered BIOS and reset to optimized defaults. Booted to Windows and removed the existing AMD driver, soft removed the processor via Windows Device Manager.

 

 

how did you remove amd driver??

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i under stand that but you've written soft removed the processor and removed amd drivers or are both of the statements the same 1?

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DFI Lanparty UT nF4 Ultra-D (BIOS 11/14/2005)| AMD Athlon 64 X2 4600+ Manchester | 2x1024Mb OCZ Dual Channel Platinum (2-3-2-5) | 200Gb Seagate SATA | 60Gb Western Digital IDE | ATI Radeon X800XL | LG 16xDVD/48xCD GDR-8164B | Mitsumi 7-in-1 Reader/Floppy | Logitech MX700 Keyboard/Mouse | Altec Lansing Powercube | Viewsonic G90fb 19" CRT | Sonata Case with Truepower 380W | Antec and Coolmaster Fans
Is this a TP II ?

 

Single +12V rail or Dual Rails?

 

What is the +12V amperage & wattage rating?

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i under stand that but you've written soft removed the processor and removed amd drivers or are both of the statements the same 1?

 

Yes, if Windows is working properly when you remove the device via device manager it should remove the drivers also. However, I uninstalled the driver via device manager and then uninstalled the hardware. Make sure Windows restore is turned off.

 

I see no harm in just performing the single step of removing the device however.

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