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carmaster22

First DFI board and I need help getting stable

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Here's what the PC health section of the BIOS states:

Chipset Fan - 0 RPM (I've never seen this spin, can I replace it with an Evercool VC-RE?)

since I don’t have the same MB as yours, I don’t know if you could replace chipset HSF, and Evercool is compatible. So your question remains to be answered by someone more knowledge with your specific MB.

As far as Chipset monitoring by BIOS is concern, and your fan not spinning; check if MB fan-connection is tightly plugged, and not loose. (Make sure PC is off and you have drained power by pressing the Power-Button, after you have removed the Power-cable from PSU. Then check the fan connection and integrity of the fan). Some times V-Card may be sitting-touching HSF.

 

When I run Memtest, do you need details of the failures?
I don’t think you do need details, because even if you know the error in detail, I don’t think there is something you can do about it except RMA-ing it, since the state of the memory module is in failed condition.

 

I have 512MB RAM, what should I set my AGP aperture size at?
IMHO, Video Aperture is and area of the system RAM specifically designated for video only, that your video card uses without CPU instructions, and no other programs have access to. AGP Aperture comes handy when playing games. You can leave it blank and give as little ram as possible (since you don’t have lots of ram to spare).

Remember whatever you give will be taken out of your 512MB. But you can upgrade RAM to 1-2GB and then give like 128-256MB.

 

If you could get 2x1024 modules, I think your problem would be solved, because that 512MB module did called a cab and left you hanging.

 

Hang tight, most guys are recovering from Hangover so be patient and hopefully some one with better knowledge with your MB will come along and satisfy you questions.

 

 

Good Luck.

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Hi,

 

I am glad I am not alone. I have the same board as yourself and I have to say, I am beginning to regret purchasing it.

 

I too experience problems with the system locking up, rebooting, bluescreening etc.

 

The memory was working fine in my previous system (before the upgrade).

 

Anyways, I seem to be making my system more stable.

 

First of all, I would recommend chosing the option "Load Fail Safe Defaults" in the bios. My system has been more stable since doing this.

 

Secondly, in Windows I would visit Nvidia and install the latest platform drivers for the nforce 3 chipset.

 

I have also set my network card to 100Mbp/s per second.

 

I am still looking into other options and will get back to you...

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These are my settings

Memory Hole - Disabled

Max Mem Clock - 200

Mem Timing - 1t

Cas# Latency - 3

Ras# to Cas# delay - 3

Min Ras active time - 8

Row Pre charge - 2

Write Rec Rime - auto

Ras# to Res# Delay - 2 bus clocks

Row refresh time - 16 bus clocks

Row cycle time - 8 bus clocks

Write to read delay - 2 bus clocks

Read to write delay - 3 bus clocks

Refresh rate 3120 cycles

Write cas latency - 7ns

Read preamble - 4ns

Dynamic indle cycle counter - 256

DDR output driving - normal

DDR DQ drive strength - auto

ECC Function - disable

 

CPU Vid control - 1.45 volts

CPU Volt adj - default

Chipset volts - 1.65 volts

Memory volts - 2.8 volts

 

Hope this helps. My system is very stable

 

Bruce

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I appreciate your help G-Code, however, your settings did not work for me. The board won't POST at all.

 

The only way to get things working somewhat again is to Clear the BIOS, then go in and change the timing to 2T, then I can boot to Windows, sometimes. Other times, even after clearing the BIOS and setting the timing to 2T, it still won't POST. I just have to keep clearing the BIOS and hoping it will go this next time.

 

and your fan not spinning; check if MB fan-connection is tightly plugged, and not loose.

I thought about that and I have already plugged the fan into the power connector just under the CMOS battery. The still did not spin when plugged in there.

 

If you could get 2x1024 modules, I think your problem would be solved, because that 512MB module did called a cab and left you hanging.

I was looking at getting these sticks: OCZ EB DDR PC-4000 / 500MHz / Enhanced Bandwidth / 2GB Platinum Edition / Dual Channel (OCZ5002048EBPE-K)

However, nobody has them in stock anymore.

But I can find this: OCZ EB DDR PC-4000 / 500MHz / Enhanced Bandwidth / 1024MB Platinum Edition (OCZ5001024EBPE)

Would buying 2 of the 1GB sticks be exactly like buying the 2GB kit? Because they say the 2GB kit is optimized for dual channel, is that just marketing crap?

 

Finally, I'm confused about the bad Memtest, because I've had this 512MB RAM for over a year and it's not like it's value RAM, it's Crucial Ballistix. Is it possible that my RAM just went bad all of a sudden?

 

Thanks again for trying to help.

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I thought about that and I have already plugged the fan into the power connector just under the CMOS battery. The still did not spin when plugged in there.
Did you check the V-card to make sure its not sitting/touching the chipset fan? If you did, there’s something seriously wrong there.

 

I was looking at getting these sticks: OCZ EB DDR PC-4000 / 500MHz / Enhanced Bandwidth / 2GB Platinum Edition / Dual Channel (OCZ5002048EBPE-K) However, nobody has them in stock anymore.

But I can find this: OCZ EB DDR PC-4000 / 500MHz / Enhanced Bandwidth / 1024MB Platinum Edition (OCZ5001024EBPE)

Would buying 2 of the 1GB sticks be exactly like buying the 2GB kit? Because they say the 2GB kit is optimized for dual channel, is that just marketing crap?

I don’t think your MB will be compatible with those RAMS. The highest you can get is the “Dual channel (128-bit wide)” PC3200, DDR400. So yeah you can get them dual channel 2GB-kit, but they have to be PC3200 DDR400.

 

Finally, I'm confused about the bad Memtest, because I've had this 512MB RAM for over a year and it's not like it's value RAM, it's Crucial Ballistix. Is it possible that my RAM just went bad all of a sudden?
Yeah I think so.

I had to send back $200+ Pair of Corsair TwinX PC3200Pro DDR400, twice. First, for failing after couple of months, and the second time, the replacement modules were DOA. I had to request second RMA. Memtest fail them both times when tested. Corsair had to RMA them twice.

Finally, the second replacements are what I’m now using, after they passed Memtest 6 times on row.

So yeah, Memory can and will die without prior notice, memtest is the best program to check dying modules. If memtest comes back with errors, mind as well throw them out the window or RMA them, because there is nothing that can be done by anyone, except manufacturer.

Check this thread and find what happened to me. http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53500

 

I very much think your memory modules are dying on ya, and you need to upgrade memory anyway. So get better bigger ones.

 

Good Luck.

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Ok, now after trying the settings G-Code posted, I can only POST with 1T Timing. If I try to enter the BIOS, it lets me, however, when I exit the system will not POST at all, no matter if I changed anything or not. And to get it back to POST and boot to Windows, I have to clear the BIOS. So I cannot change anything now, and even though I'm in Windows, I'll probably crash here in a few (its happened 2 time while typing this).

 

So now, my memory is running at 2-2-2-8 1T Timing. Just some more info for you guys trying to help me.

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After doing a search for my board and DDR500 RAM, I only found one person running that. So it looks like I'll get the OCZ EL DDR PC-3200 2x1024MB Dual Channel Platinum XTC (OCZP4002GK). I found them for a pretty decent price. So once I get those, I'll be back here for some more help.

 

Or does anyone know some good stable settings for that RAM?

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I also have the same board and have found the same problems that you have encoutered but the wierd thing is that they happen randomly. But what i found was that once i re placed my CPU and RAM the problems went away. I am currently using my old cpu and ram on another board and have found no probs. I would try the 2005/07/11 BIOS that worked for me. Or even trying using one stick of ram or different cpu.

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I also have the same board and have found the same problems that you have encoutered but the wierd thing is that they happen randomly. But what i found was that once i re placed my CPU and RAM the problems went away. I am currently using my old cpu and ram on another board and have found no probs. I would try the 2005/07/11 BIOS that worked for me. Or even trying using one stick of ram or different cpu.

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I feel your pain, bro. The DFI Lanparty NF3 Ultra D has been the hardest board I have ever worked with. Hopefully we can get this working...

 

Let's start from scratch. Shutdown your rig, unplug it from the wall, jumper the CMOS to clear it, then pull the battery. Disconnect your SATA drives... either unplug the power connector to them, or the SATA connector... whichever is easier for you.

 

Go grab a beer if you are old enough... if not, just kick back for a while until the CMOS is dead. 15-20 minutes should do.

 

Now, re-install the CMOS battery and put the jumper back to normal. LEAVE THE SATA DRIVES DISCONNECTED! They have a tendency to screw up your BIOS settings while making changes... it's best to just leave them disconnected for now.

 

Plug your rig in and boot it up. Go into BIOS. DO NOT TRY TO SET YOUR DATE AND TIME. Leave it alone... we can fix it in Windows when we get it running.

 

Load Fail-Safe defaults. Save. Load Fail-Safe defaults again. Save and exit. (Reboot)

 

Boot and go into Bios again. Load Optimized Defaults. Save. Load Optimized Defaults again. Save and exit. (Reboot)

 

Boot and go into BIOS.

 

Go into Advanced BIOS Features.

First boot device: Removable

Second boot device: CD-ROM

Third Boot Device: Hard Disk

Boot other device: disabled

OS Select for DRAM > 64MB: Non-OS2

Delay for HDD (Secs): 3

 

Go into Advanced Chipset Features

AGP Aperature Size (MB): 256M

 

Go into Integrated Peripherals

IDE Function Setup: (Enable all of the devices in this area)

Init Display First: AGP

OnChip USB: V1.1 & V2.0

USB Memory Type: Base Memory (640K)

USB KB/Storage Support: Disabled (Known to cause problems...)

USB Mouse Support: Disabled (Better safe than sorry...)

 

Go into Genie BIOS Setting

DRAM Configuration: (Press Enter)

 

Max Memclock: 200Mhz

1T/2T Memory Timing: 2T

CAS# latency (Tcl): 2

RAS# to CAS# Delay (Trcd): 2T

Min RAS# active time (Tras): 8T

Row precharge Time (Trp): 2T

(Leave the rest at AUTO for now)

 

Go into Genie BIOS Setting

 

CPU Overclock in MHZ: 200

Hammer Fid control: x10 (or whatever your max multiplier is... do not leave in auto.)

AGP Overclock in Mhz: 67

LDT/FSB Frequency Ratio: 4x (3x isn't bad either...)

AMD K8 Cool and Quiet: Disable

 

CPU VID Control: (This board undervolts pretty bad. Search the forum on this subject. Set it about 0.05 volts more than stock... maybe even 0.1 or 0.15 depending on your cooling and chip requirements.)

Chipset Voltage Control: 1.65V

Memory Voltage Control: 2.6V (The board will 0.1 over-volt here... so 2.6 setting is really a 2.7 volt setting.)

AGP Voltage Control: 1.5V

 

Save and exit setup.

 

If she boots, then let it continue to try to load until you get a message that says that it can't find a boot disk. Shut down your system and reconnect your SATA drives. Boot and go into your BIOS again.

 

Go into Advanced BIOS Features

Hard Disk Boot Priority: (Press Enter) Set your boot drive here...

 

Save and exit. Boot into Windows.

 

If it doesn't boot, we have to go back to square one. (No boot = bad ram timings.) Set it up as before, but set your RAM to these settings:

 

Max Memclock: 200Mhz

1T/2T Memory Timing: 2T

CAS# latency (Tcl): 3

RAS# to CAS# Delay (Trcd): 3T

Min RAS# active time (Tras): 8T

Row precharge Time (Trp): 3T

(Leave the rest at AUTO for now)

 

You might try setting yout RAM voltage a bit higher or lower... some like more voltage, while others can't handle more than 2.6 and be stable. (I run mine at a setting of 2.7 volts, which reports back at 2.79 volts.)

 

That should do it. If you can't get it to boot, or can't get it to pass MemTest after this, your RAM is suspect. Let me know if this helps. Best regards.

 

Mark

 

p.s. Yes, you can replace the chipset HSF with an Evercool VC-RE. Here is mine:

 

Accelero%20X1%20I.JPG

 

Be careful of the components... I have to file the HSF to clear a component on the board.

 

Evercool%20VC-RE%20II.JPG

 

I broke my HSF clip trying to put mine on. It's tight by the caps. (I tried to bend the clip. Spring steel snaps when bent too hard. :P ) I made a custom metal band to hold it, and re-used the spring loaded clips as shown in the picture.

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Thank you very much for your info, however after failing Memtest, I just went out and bought new RAM. So instead of the 512MB Crucial Ballistix, I have 2GB (2x1GB) OCZ Platinum XTC PC3200 in slots 1 & 3.

 

I thoroughly read through the DFI NF4 BIOS Memory guide by johnrr6 and set all my memory settings to the most stable settings. I then reinstalled Windows because it was corrupt from all the previous crashes I had. Memtest gave me no errors after 4 passes and I am currently running Prime95, it's only been going for 3 hours, but so far so good.

 

Will the settings you listed above still apply, even though I have different RAM?

 

I'm not very crafty when it comes to installing things that aren't made to fit. If I follow the guide for installing the VC-RE on an NF4 board, do you think I'll be alright? Or is there something else that I can buy that will be a direct replacement for the chipset fan?

 

Thanks again for your help.

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