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scyphe

Immersive cooling - ultimate cool?

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I saw a Google video where some Germans used vegetable oil in a sealed acrylic case, similar idea. I think I would feel safer trying the vegetable oil.

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But you also have to keep that massive amount of liquid constantly cool. I can be done like liquid nitrogen but that can only produce a small ammount with in a minute of liquid nitrogen with compressed air shooting over very very small pipes. I considered trying submersion cooling because I have an extra mobo lying around but I cant even adjust the voltage so its kinda pointless for ocing

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wow tas crazy?? but its not like your trying to oc your computer to the max.. of tas waht your trying to do then its best for u right???

 

how would you pulg ure ps2.. usb..etc etc.. cause it would be a mess going in and out in and out

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I've seen different cooling designs identical to this which needs to be sealed around some components and some components out of the water/oil.

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Heres an exampe of submersion cooling done with vegatable oil I think, the entire case was modded just for this.

 

diag5x4.jpg

 

You can either get extentions for th connectors to go to the top of the case out of the liquid, or you could mount your mobo with the i/o connectors facing upwards

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I have a concept for a case that would imploy submersion cooling with vegatable oil or a clear non conductive liquid that wont freeze easily. I would like some people to look at this and tell me where I am wrong because I do not have a degree in chemistry or physics.

 

By using two shells you could eliminate condensation on the outside of the case. Have an inner plexiglass box that houses the mobo, power supply, and harddrives. All connections to the motherboard are extended from it or connected, ie. ps/2, usb, firewire, serial port, dvi connections, and ata133 for the cd drives. The mobo sits virticaly in the container (like the other example) and is held in place by stand offs and hd/ps are bolted accordingly. Every chip on the mobo and video card hax a heatsink on it to increase the transfer of heat and the cpu sink uses the largest one possible. The plexiglass for this case is ~1/2 inch or more and is so for the outer casing too. The panes of plexiglass are held together with alumium or steel. The mobo's case sits in the seccond plexiglass case with a little contact as possible but both cases are open at the top. These are connected, secured, and sealed air tight at the top with steel and some air tight sealent (maybe even duct tape but probably not). the space inbetween the two cases (about 1/2 an inch) is pumped to a near vaccume (hense the air tight seal). This prevents condensation from building up on the case and it prevents heat from being transfered from the room into the case. atop this conraption sits the radiator and pump to cool the oil or liquid to negative temps. this is accompleshed through the radiator design that emploies pelter junctions (aka heat pumps) to force heat from the oil and to heatsinks and fans. the connections from the mobo are extented to the top to an i/o pannel and to the dvd drive and floppy drive.

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Couple of things to consider if you are tempted to do this...

 

For a large bath you need to circulate and agitate the fluid constantly to avoid temperature differentials (i.e. hot spots around certain components). Think of a circulator bath in labs they have a pump that draws the solution to the chiller and for large baths some sort of mixer to keep the solution well stirred.

 

How are you planning to pump down your two pane plexiglass wall? You will need a roughing pump for this and considering that you probably won't have a very good seal you will be running this roughing pump 24/7.

 

Instead of creating a vacuum you would be better off creating a positive flow of dry air between the walls but this would be expensive as well.

 

I don't see the need for any heatsinks on anything b/c the sink and the thermal compound will become a barrier to the transferr of heat.

 

For cooling the solution you are probably better off using a chiller like the ones found in circulator baths...The idea of using peltiers adds to the coolness factor of the idea but for practicality you would want some sort of freon based chiller.

 

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There are several ways that you can keep condensation off the outside walls and I've always preferred to use positive flow of dry air (bleed off of a LN2 tank works nicely). I used this method to keep condensation from forming on the AFM due to the temperature stage that I designed and built in grad school. It's not the most effecient way but if you ever need to access something there is less chance of a catastrophe as there is if vacuum is used. Also if you have never worked with trying to keep a vacuum, suffice it to say that a vacuum is a major pain in the *** to maintain even if you are working with a setup specifically designed to hold a vacuum.

 

Jim

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