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Well that's just freaking great.

 

It rebooted around 45 minutes ago. Which means after 7:30 of testing, it failed... I have no idea whether or not it was still running on all cores before that or not because I was asleep... ::sighs:: great. Now I have no freakin' clue what to do next because it could be anything that's wrong, all I know is the failure was between 3 and 7 1/2 hours.

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Well, this is an oddity that I'll let boggle everyone's brain.

 

My CPU temp is reading HOTTER than any core readout I'm getting from TAT or Everest.

 

Priming right now and my readouts are:

 

CPU: 52C

Core 1: 48C

Core 2: 45C

Core 3: 48C

Core 4: 47C

 

Shouldn't it be the other way around?

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Welp, I've officially thrown in the towel. I'm done trying to get stability at anything over stock. I don't even care anymore. Tired of the frustration, no one bothering to help in any way that's actually useful, but most of all I'm tired of dealing with arctic silver, and stupid liquid cooling system that has to be put on a certain way or it won't freakin' work right, and all the other bull crap of overclocking.

 

I probably won't be around much anymore, not that anyone else seems to be. I haven't seen any activity on the 64 threads I'm subscribed to in 4 days. Frankly I'm not surprised, overclocking is a pain in the butt and it's not worth it anymore, at least not to me.

 

Half tempted to sell the parts from this machine and buy a nice simple factory made computer... just tired of all the crap. I spent my whole two days off trying to fix this stupid piece of .. I'm done trying to do the impossible, it passed 7 hours and some change at stock with the RAM up where it should be with looser timings, that's good enough for me.

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Welp, I've officially thrown in the towel. I'm done trying to get stability at anything over stock. I don't even care anymore. Tired of the frustration, no one bothering to help in any way that's actually useful, but most of all I'm tired of dealing with arctic silver, and stupid liquid cooling system that has to be put on a certain way or it won't freakin' work right, and all the other bull crap of overclocking

 

I understand your frustration especially as you have top notch gear costing a fortune but overclocking is very time consuming & a great challenge as well as something I actually have fun with.

 

you are not alone 99% of the time when I spend big money on something that is supposed to be the best I end up disappointed.

 

I also have hundreds of pounds worth of decent water cooling gear & tubes of AS5 all over the place but to be totally honest I have far more fun trying to do my best with air & cheap generic heatsink paste where the challenge is trying to beat other peoples top end CPU etc etc with a budget one costing a fifth of the price.

 

I think you need to kick back for a while & have another go without such big expectations.

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3.666 is not a big expectation, cuz I've already done it ;) lol

 

I ordered new tubing, arctic ceramique (to redo my chipsets again and the volt regs), and another bottle of coolant. The plan is to reinstall my lc system once I measure out the tubing to fit well in this case, and get the new reservoir primed and leak free since it's the part that's leaking and I've had it with that ..

 

Then MAYBE I'll try for 3.666GHz again. Honestly at this point I'll be happy with stock as long as the damn thing doesn't run hot.

 

I don't know what I was doing wrong with that block, but five times total I mounted it and it didn't once run as cool as it did on the other board... which makes no sense as I'm using the EXACT same voltages. So the only thing I can think of is that I'm mounting it wrong... I don't see how cuz I'm mounting it the same way I always have.

 

Ah well, for now I'm going to relax and enjoy stock and game some... I know it's 100% stable cuz I tested for over 7 hours last night with the RAM all the way up... it didn't make it to 8 cuz one of the cores failed but honestly, I wouldn't be surprised if it was settings related, and right now I really don't care.

 

I may end up sending this expensive ram back and keeping the cheaper Mushkin kit, at least it was happy at 815MHz 5-5-5-18-2T 2.1Vs, no fussing. I dunno... I'll decide that when the new tubing and stuff gets here... I am definitely sending the OCZ kit back though, it ain't worth what I paid for it if it takes that much voltage to run it at it's "stock" settings... and it performed worse at 888MHz than my Mushkin 4GB HP2-6400s did at 815MHz. That's just sad.

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Charmed

 

What you are trying to achieve isn't beyond reach. But a brute force approach usually has the ending that you have found. Sure there are people that throw components together and reach really nice clocks. That is normally the result of having one or more above average component. They could get a lot further if they understood what it was they were doing.

 

While your enjoying your system at stock speed, which by the way is plenty fast, take some time and do some reading. If you can get a grasp on the various voltages and settings, what they do and how they relate to each other you will not only see results that you thought were unachievable but you'll also be enjoying it.

 

The following is a case in point:

 

I am definitely sending the OCZ kit back though, it ain't worth what I paid for it if it takes that much voltage to run it at it's "stock" settings... and it performed worse at 888MHz than my Mushkin 4GB HP2-6400s did at 815MHz.

The only way you would see those results is because of the SPD of the ram setting the values in the BIOS. If a person truly understands the timings and how they relate to each other the BIOS could be configured where at the same speed the different modules would be indistinguishable from each other.

 

Good luck with whatever you decide to do. Just be glad you didn't get that DFI board. Because without a handle on GTL's you wouldn't have got as far as you did.

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Well, what I'm doing now is taking a few days off, which I'm enjoying the hell out of already LOL Relaxation over frustration man.

 

I'm waiting on a DangerDen shipment of Tubing, Coolant and AS5 & Ceramique to get here, then I'm going to redo the chipsets again, and the volt regs on the board, just to be safe, with the ceramique. Then I'm gonna redo my liquid cooling from scratch tubing wise to fit inside my case (except the radiator of course) that way it'll work better, THEN I'm going to reinstall it once it's debubbled. The new reservoir I got but haven't installed yet is done curing it's caulking, and it looks great, no cracks and liquid-tight (I believe, haven't tested it yet). I thought about reinstalling it tonight but I think I'd rather wait til I can install it with the new tubing. I do need to drain the current system if I'm gonna do that... plus it'll waste less silver if I don't haveta redo it twice... I dunno, I'll think on that some more.

 

Mainly I just want to get my RAM SOMEWHERE near it's stock settings, 1066MHz, at 2.2 or 2.3Vs, with the CPU at 3.666GHz. Honestly, if I can do that, I'll be slap-happy if it's 8+ hours stable for good. But as of right now, when I had my liquid cooling installed anyway, it couldn't do that, yet. I'll figure it out I'm sure, just... needed the time off cuz working on it on both of my days off non-stop just really burned me out on it.

 

I'm sure once I have it all installed again and figured out, I'll be good to go.

 

Question for you guys though. In your experience, has overtightening a liquid block, or improper seating, ever caused your CPU temp to run higher than your Core temps? Cuz that's still boggling my brain, cuz as far as I know that shouldn't be possible. I can understand it running warm, cuz it did last time at 3.666Ghz, but running higher CPU temp than core temps? That just don't happen from what I've seen.

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I was getting higher temps when I cranked way down. Down I reseated and just tighten clockwise till there is resistance

 

Also, everyone seems to be lapping their quads but thats not an option at all on a $1000 chip imo

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Got the old-tubing liquid setup leak testing with the new reservoir... thing's quiet as a mouse without the fans on the radiator running... will have to fix them when I get it reinstalled to run quiet LOL

 

so far no leaks from the reservoir but it's only been running a few minutes... I think that caulking will be the difference maker though.

 

The fun part is going to be redoing the tubing cuz I'll have to either drain it completely or... work some kinda magic where an entire tube is empty at a time...

 

Whatcha think? Should I wait to reinstall it until I do the retube, or have to deal with the extra install/removal tomorrow and probably Saturday night?

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Charmed, if CoreTemp readings are the same as they were when using the other boards I wouldn't worry much about what the board is reporting as a temperature. Most likely a board sensor issue.

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