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Guest EFiNi7

Clearing CMOS clears a lot of issues!!

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Guest EFiNi7

I wanted to share this info with fellow noobs as it has cleared up some strange occurances with my OC.

 

I had my PC OC to 2920 MHz and running prime stable for over 10 hours when i first began my OC. Then after reading a few threads in this forum i decided to try my RAM in the orange slots to see if i could clock my ram a bit more. This turned out to be worse, couldnt even get it runnign stable at 2900 so i switched the sticks back into the yellow slots.

 

WHen i attempted to run prime again at 2920 it would fail within an hour. Even when i took it down to 2900 it wouldnt run stable. :confused:

 

So last night i decided to clear my CMOS. I left the jumper on the pins for 3 hours and then reset my BIOS, load optimized defaults, and setup my 2920 configuration again. I left prime runing over night and it ran for 11 hours stable before i stopped it this morning. :D

 

TAKE IT FROM ME AS I WAS PRETTY DISSAPPOINTED AND CONFUSED WHEN MY PC WASNT RUNNING STABLE LIKE IT USED TO, CLEAR THE CMOS AS YOUR FIRST STEP.

 

CLEAR YOUR CMOS AFTER SWITCHING OR CHANGING ANY HARDWARE ROUND. IT WILL SAVE YOU A LOT OF TIME!!!

 

This is my first DFI board and i am very happy with it. Though i must say that the BIOS is very sensitive on these boards. But when configured and reset correctly it can be your best friend. :nod:

 

So noobs, when swapping rams modules in different bays, re-seating your CPU etc, any hardware change:

1. Clear that CMOS

2. Unplug power from PSU

3. Remove the battery and press the power button a few times to drain any charge left over.

4. Leave jumper on clear CMOS position pins for at least an hour, if not more. (time is up to you, longer the better)

5. Return jumper to normal position, install battery, plug power in, boot up and load optimized defaults, save and reboot machine into windows once.

6. Restart windows and go into BIOS again, THEN make your changes.

 

Hope this helps!!! ;)

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I wanted to share this info with fellow noobs as it has cleared up some strange occurances with my OC.

 

I had my PC OC to 2920 MHz and running prime stable for over 10 hours when i first began my OC. Then after reading a few threads in this forum i decided to try my RAM in the orange slots to see if i could clock my ram a bit more. This turned out to be worse, couldnt even get it runnign stable at 2900 so i switched the sticks back into the yellow slots.

 

WHen i attempted to run prime again at 2920 it would fail within an hour. Even when i took it down to 2900 it wouldnt run stable. :confused:

 

So last night i decided to clear my CMOS. I left the jumper on the pins for 3 hours and then reset my BIOS, load optimized defaults, and setup my 2920 configuration again. I left prime runing over night and it ran for 11 hours stable before i stopped it this morning. :D

 

TAKE IT FROM ME AS I WAS PRETTY DISSAPPOINTED AND CONFUSED WHEN MY PC WASNT RUNNING STABLE LIKE IT USED TO, CLEAR THE CMOS AS YOUR FIRST STEP.

 

CLEAR YOUR CMOS AFTER SWITCHING OR CHANGING ANY HARDWARE ROUND. IT WILL SAVE YOU A LOT OF TIME!!!

 

This is my first DFI board and i am very happy with it. Though i must say that the BIOS is very sensitive on these boards. But when configured and reset correctly it can be your best friend. :nod:

 

So noobs, when swapping rams modules in different bays, re-seating your CPU etc, any hardware change:

1. Clear that CMOS

2. Leave jumper on clear CMOS postion pins for at least an hour, if not more.

3. Boot up and load optimized defaults, save and reboot machine into windows once.

4. Restart windows and go into BIOS again, THEN make your changes.

 

Hope this helps!!! ;)

 

I learned that the hard way when doing a simple reseating of the heatsink and CPU. These DFI boards can be a real pain, but once you get them going there is nothing that can stop them.

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Guest Retratserif

I may just try thta before I RMA away. I had just removed my Water Cooling blocks and everything from my case. I am stuck at the 3 LEDs. I will slap it back to gether when I get home. I didnt know that just reseating it would reset anything. I have cleared that damn cmos at least 20 times, all being over 4 hours each over the last 2 weeks. Never got a boot once I hit 256 on my ram. I never got to loosen up anything, it just wouldnt reboot.

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Yeah...

I got an older board, much older, a nf2.

I clear my cmos alot, if needed.

The mojority of the time 2 times ina row.

Ie, clear, power on, save and exit, power off, clear, power on, setup and play.

 

I can tell if there's a setting stuck in the bios, the 1st thing I even notice is the vcore.

The next one I may notice is the cpu multi.

There has been other things stuck on from the previos cmos before, but thos are the ones I look for.

Even if I don't notcie, I found that I may have to clear a few more times.

But I have'nt had to do that in some time, I've gotten my rig much more controllable since then.

 

 

It's nice to see that someone else has noticed the same issue(clearing cmos brings some or all stability back).

I allways figuered no one else ever noticed the issue before or something, I know it exists on anyone's rig though...

 

Edit:

3rd led stuck prob is either:

Bios corruption.

Or badly programmed spd on the memory/perhaps bad memory or bad conenction.

Even leading to the cpu, because the cpu is the mem controller+some.

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Guest EFiNi7

Ive found that issue also, sometimes the DDR voltage selection over 3.2 volts doesnt appear and i worked out that if i go into the memory settings page then escape back out, the settings will be available again.

 

It would be good to find out why its this way. Could it be maybe a hardware issue with the type of bios chip or the programming itself.. Not to discredit anyones work or anything because i personally like the bios, the layout makes tuning so easy, and the options are numerous. If only it wasnt so sensitive. Perhaps its the constant rebooting that we do and configuring that just confuses it..

 

Ive never given the BIOS that much credit or thought in the past, but it certainly deserves it

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It's not the bios chip.

 

I have tried 3 diff brands of chips, winbond(stock), pmc flash and sst.

 

The best to worst order:

 

1. SST

2. PMC Flash

3. Winbond

 

The diffrence between the winbind and pmc flash are:

Reboots are more consistant, it actually boots correctly more offen.

PCM Flash holds a flash better, after it's dead, it does'nt allways need 2x flashes or more.

 

Note, that the pmc flash was still not enough for the abit nf7-s2g to bootup correctly 100% of the time at very low speeds.

50% of the time actually it failed to boot.

 

 

SST diffs between the other 2:

Faster flashing, much faster.

Fast chip lol.

Seems to hold a flash like pmc if not better I dn, but I still always 2x flash so whatever, so I'll never know now, I no longer perfomance that test.

Note that the winbond needed up to 4x flashes sometimes.

 

Allways boots up the nf7-s2g at normal people settings.

It's what the board came with lol, I traded my bud for it, I gave him my pmc in trade so I could test this chip.

It was an equal trade since I braught his baord back form the dead.

Plus it furthered my reasearch on the inpact of diff chips.

 

Good chip, my fav brand so far.

 

 

Btw, I have put together code that dumps the cmos.

however it only dumps it to the screen from dos, I have no learned hardrive code ffor asm yet to dump to the disk.

I have'nt really looked at it alot though.

Only ebnough to check to see what was setup, there's a few reg's I'm not sure what they do at all, gonna have to do diff to last comparisons.

Some of them I'm confused about because it's an award / pheonix bios after all.

Not a huge deal.

Maybe someday I will compare the diff between good cmos and a defenate bad one.

 

I would assume it's bad coding, not really bad, just no double checks or something, before it's re-writting.

With 2 checksums it can't be bad, well it might but I sorta doubt it, it's never detected that it's off or anything.

Then again maybe the 2nd checksum is ignored I dn.

 

In any case whatever.

I'm still glad others have notcied they need to clear the cmos once in a while :).

 

 

And btw, the issue were options are off but re-appear...

I have had the same issue.

One option was blanked out.

Not normal, but after adjusting memory timings it was back to being unblanked out.

Like it's tied to the memory timing menu's.

I think it was the sync memory bypass stuff.

It's not normally tied to that menu though...

 

 

I've also did some battery reaserch too.

Did ya know that the sanyo CR2032 kicks the crap out of all of them, or at least most of them(all of them that I've looked up anyways so far) ?

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I agree with you guys that sometimes you have to clear CMOS after computer refuses to POST or boot.

 

BUT - you do not have to reset jumper for 1 hour! If you unplug the power cord, then you should be able to reset CMOS in 1-2 minutes, and really up to 15 minutes max. but that should be overkill. Also, to be really really sure of reset, unplug the CMOS battery for 1 minute before resetting jumper.

 

Does anybody agree with this? Electrons always move to lower voltage (i.e. toward ground) and away from higher voltage (i.e, away from PSU) at very high speed (like .9999*C (where C=speed of light)), and they do not, or more specifically cannot, hang around for an hour, right? [This is about all I can remember from college physics.] Isn't this true? Am I missing something?

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They actually can though ^^.

 

However on the dfi's I don't see a need, just clear 2 times ina row, and that does the trick most of the time.

I mean you can't just put a switch on the jumper and click it twice, I do, but it does'nt clear it twice.

You have to boot, save and exit, then clear again to effectivally claer the cmos.

 

It seems that no matter how good of setup you have, 90% of the time you need to clear twice.

 

In any case, clearing only once will most of the time get you what you're looking for.

If you're on the extreme edge however it may take 2 - 5 times even.

I normamly only doit twice, I figuer it's not worth it if I can't get my rig stable within certain perameters.

 

I mean, if I need to have my cmos 100% perfect to get it right, then it's very likely it's gonna fork over real fast anyways.

To much time to waste and all.

 

You can pull a cmos battery out of these dfi's, and leave it for over a month, and it can still have your settings(Err oops lol, big exageration sorry, should of said 2 days, I'm so stupid, I've left mine out for 2 days before and it sill had it's settings)(Yes I discharged everything too).

Other brands of mobo's are goofed up in these kind of ways too.

Just that these dfi's have a hard time clearing with the actual jumper!

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I don't understand how to clear the CMOS, there are too many different methods!

 

Do I need to have the PSU plugged in and turned on when I move the jumper to clear, and how long do I keep that jumper there?

Do I have to boot up my comp with the jumper still set to 'clear' or just set it back to normal before booting ?!

 

Can someone explain the easiest method to me please? WITHOUT having to take out the battery, I don't trust myself doing that.

 

THANKS! =)

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Don't take this is final or anything, the method used on the nf4's is diffrent because of the voltage controller issue, you have to be careful.

Best a mod post on this.

 

Anyways my method for my nf2:

Put a swicth on the clear cmos jumoper area.

Not a few second one, a permnment type of switch, one that clicks and stays on or off.

 

Put the 2 wire's, that are on a jumper like clip thingy lol, easy to find.

Anyways put it on the run posistion or whatever it's called.

So when the switched is clicked in, the cmos is not cleared.

When you click it, it pop's out, the switch button, and it'll clear the cmos.

 

It's as simple as click-click, click-click.

Fast as possible if you want, does'nt matter.

 

Power must be going to the mobo though, it won't clear for shiz 90% of the time if there's no power going to the board.

 

 

Mods please like um, your inputs.

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