smolt Posted May 20, 2006 Posted May 20, 2006 LoL man if the paper got hot enough to cause a hazard. You CPU has already gone bye bye Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fast Hot Rod Posted May 20, 2006 Posted May 20, 2006 I have a TT Big Typhoon and it's great! Except for the mounting part, that is. I hate that part of it. I saw the metal back plate and even with the protective pad I didn't trust it. The instructions say to put the sponge on the MB, then the mylar sheet on the sponge, then the metal plate on the mylar. (Backplate installation.) It's labled as (LGA775/P4/K7) but I believe that it is implied to do it for all back plates. I agree that it's not very clear in that regard. I reused my DFI backplate... but had to go buy longer screws to make that work. Needless to say, it's a bear tightening the screws unless you have a right angle screwdriver! (I wanted to buy cap screws and use a hex key, but no luck.) With a thickness of only 1/16" the metal plate bends under the pressure... they should have made it a bit thicker, IMHO. So what's the hacksaw trick? I didn't see a need to cut anything when I installed mine. Mark Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
smolt Posted May 20, 2006 Posted May 20, 2006 I have a TT Big Typhoon and it's great! Except for the mounting part, that is. I hate that part of it. I saw the metal back plate and even with the protective pad I didn't trust it. The instructions say to put the sponge on the MB, then the mylar sheet on the sponge, then the metal plate on the mylar. (Backplate installation.) It's labled as (LGA775/P4/K7) but I believe that it is implied to do it for all back plates. I agree that it's not very clear in that regard. I reused my DFI backplate... but had to go buy longer screws to make that work. Needless to say, it's a bear tightening the screws unless you have a right angle screwdriver! (I wanted to buy cap screws and use a hex key, but no luck.) With a thickness of only 1/16" the metal plate bends under the pressure... they should have made it a bit thicker, IMHO. So what's the hacksaw trick? I didn't see a need to cut anything when I installed mine. Mark Myself I also used longer screews but used the nuts to hold the screews tight and used wingnuts on the braket makes it real simple to tighten up. I also cut that funky top rizer off so the hold down braket set flush with the cooler. thats a kinda messed up way to make one cooler fit alot of apps Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rezag1000 Posted August 17, 2006 Posted August 17, 2006 So if you use longer screws and keep the original ultra-d backplate, I assume motherboard removal is not necessesary...am I correct? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
smolt Posted August 17, 2006 Posted August 17, 2006 well if you got room to put them little butt screws on and tight well guess not. Man taking the board out is all the fun. because you find better and cleaner ways to re clean your install Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
n_w95482 Posted August 18, 2006 Posted August 18, 2006 Not when you have to take it out like four times to put the damn heatsink on it . It's so big it was blocking my FDD cage so I had to remove the board just to insert my Raptor. At least everything seems to be working okay. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
smolt Posted August 18, 2006 Posted August 18, 2006 well that Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
smolt Posted August 18, 2006 Posted August 18, 2006 well thats good;) now you know how to do it the first time Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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