Propeller heads needed (overclocking with mach1)

[ooztuncer]

Well, this is my first day after the installation of mach1 - spent a good time how to insulate against condensation and as of last night my rig is functional again.

 

My mach 1 is modified by chilly1 (seller before me sent him to chilly1 and made him do the mods) and I am not sure whether the temp on the lcd is correct or not (long story) but it shows -62 when I hit the down arrow on the control panel. Motherboard monitor shows -32 degrees (celcius) at stock settings (idle) and increases to -25 when I start prime 95.

 

My problem is with overclocking - it's a big jump for me from air to phase and I am aware of cold bug. I have an ultra-d (bios 11-14), Opty 146 CABYE 0540 FPMW, g.skill 2gb HZ, and 450w x-clio psu. Saw couple of members successes around 3.2 ghz and above, however my last 2 hour-trip was not bright.

 

Before using mach1 I had a si-120 with 120mm delta fan to run my opty at 2.9 ghz (10x290 9:10 divider, 1.48 vcore, 10 hrs prime stable/games stable) - load temps were lower 40s. I know that on air I needed more than 1.6 volts to hit 3ghz but without a prime95 success.

 

Now with the mach1:

 

1) Somehow I cannot boot 10x290 9:10 at 1.475vcore, I need around 1.6vcore.

 

2) It's so stubborn that I need 1.525x1.1=1.675 vcore to enter memtest at 10x305 and I couldnt boot with 306fsb - perhaps due to cold bug but I was expecting to reach 330ish. (on air I was windows stable (not games) at 9x322).

 

3) Up to 285fsb my 9:10 divider works but after that I need to use either 3:4 or 5:6. At 305 fsb 7:10 divider shows ram speed as 305 fsb in memtest!

 

I am totally going bananas

 

All of your ideas are welcome - perhaps I am missing a very obvious thing (I know I shouldnt play when I am tired but couldnt stop myself), please give me a hand. Thanks...

[ooztuncer]

Well more bad news, I am getting computer freezes even at 10x290 regardless of vcore (i mean I need > 1.58 but it doesnt matter if it is 1.59 or 1.72 volts).

 

I am running now 10x280 - will play oblivion and test its "orc" stability.

 

Definitely unexpected perhaps unheard: from 10x290 air to 10x280 phase :mad:

 

fck this cold issues - i never thought i need a heater for my cpu.

[CPDMF]

I got one of those Opty's that loses 200mhz if the temp gets below -10. It sucks.

[danzgpgt97]

Is there a manual control you can turn down the fan on the condensing unit?

I'll take that off your hands if u dont care for it. LOL

[ooztuncer]

There is a heat pad as can be seen here (red stuff):

 

 

It has a molex power connector but I am not sure how to "control" that stuff. No buttons are working on the mach1 panel except down arrow (Chilly1 did something but not sure what!). It shows 22.8 and if I hit the down arrow it shows -62.

 

Besides that, screen froze again 5 minutes ago - now running 2750, I dunno where am I gonna end.

 

Earlier: 10x290 1.475 vcore 9:10 divider

Now: 10x275 1.45vcore 9:10 divider (ram timings are same)

[danzgpgt97]

I wish I could draw you a diagram but its to complex but I will try to explain what I know. The heat pad I dont think is for warming your cpu that much, most likely its to make sure you still retain some heat on the cpu for the liquid comeing out of the condenser to evaporate over the CPU and make cooling. If there isnt enough heat the liquid wont evaporate and would sit in there as a liquid. After you CPU the water should be all vapor. Now its getting sucked through the compressor to the condenser where you get rid of all the heat picked up and since its a high pressure vapor getting cooled the boiling point is high and the cooling through the condencer makes it change to a liquid by removing heat. Now that I think of it your probably going to need all that fan speed blowing through the condenser to form the liquid to the evaporator on the CPU. So I think you really are stuck this way. Its really the only way with pressures and boiling points to evaporate and condense the R-22. I wish I new a way to heat it but there really is nothing you could do except maybe find some way to maybe set it to a certain temperature and have it cycle on and off to maintain the temp. Is that possible? ANd if the degrees are in celcius those temps probably are at the cpu evaporator -60 and at the condecer 22 or what ever or it could just be room temp either way. Let me know how it works out. Dan

 

 

 

Sure wouldnt have wanted to spend 900 dollars on one of them like I said in the other thread would you. You would be better off with water cooling. But if I could get that price I would go for it. If OCZ is 200 I may water cool my GPU and get that for my cpu but it is a real risk not knowing if your cpu is cold bugged or a bad OCer ecspecially if you buy like a expensive 4800X2.

 

 

And it appears that just looks like a heating pad I would plug it in and sandwhich it between two metals by the way it looks.

[ooztuncer]

I wish I could draw you a diagram but its to complex but I will try to explain what I know. The heat pad I dont think is for warming your cpu that much, most likely its to make sure you still retain some heat on the cpu for the liquid comeing out of the condenser to evaporate over the CPU and make cooling. If there isnt enough heat the liquid wont evaporate and would sit in there as a liquid. After you CPU the water should be all vapor. Now its getting sucked through the compressor to the condenser where you get rid of all the heat picked up and since its a high pressure vapor getting cooled the boiling point is high and the cooling through the condencer makes it change to a liquid by removing heat. Now that I think of it your probably going to need all that fan speed blowing through the condenser to form the liquid to the evaporator on the CPU. So I think you really are stuck this way. Its really the only way with pressures and boiling points to evaporate and condense the R-22. I wish I new a way to heat it but there really is nothing you could do except maybe find some way to maybe set it to a certain temperature and have it cycle on and off to maintain the temp. Is that possible? ANd if the degrees are in celcius those temps probably are at the cpu evaporator -60 and at the condecer 22 or what ever or it could just be room temp either way. Let me know how it works out. Dan

 

 

 

Sure wouldnt have wanted to spend 900 dollars on one of them like I said in the other thread would you. You would be better off with water cooling. But if I could get that price I would go for it. If OCZ is 200 I may water cool my GPU and get that for my cpu but it is a real risk not knowing if your cpu is cold bugged or a bad OCer ecspecially if you buy like a expensive 4800X2.

 

 

And it appears that just looks like a heating pad I would plug it in and sandwhich it between two metals by the way it looks.

 

Dan,

I believe u are right. Here is the Mach I manual (I was looking at MAch II manual due to modifications he done): http://www.crazypc.com/support/nventiv/MACHI.pdf

 

While trying to grasp it if you can also take a look at the manul it would be great. I believe related pages are: 16, 22, 23, 24, 25, and 26.

 

Now I understand why it show 22.8 on the screen - chilly1 took the temp diode on the evap or condencer not sure (he put r507 gas which gives temps less than -33; normally mach 1 gives alarm if it is colder than -33), and in current situation it somehow displays my room temperature in celsius (22.8).

 

I am trying to understand ST2, ST1 parameters which might regulate the heat by playing fans. If you find a way to regulate it please pm me - thanks.

 

And of course, I also wouldnt spend $900 - still believe that $280 is good though

[danzgpgt97]

OH I would 100% agree 280 dollars I couldnt resist. I now understand you see each one of the different refrigerents have different charectoristics as far as boiling points so he mounted the the thermister to the condenser so it wouldnt trip at a certain degree. There is your problem. Put it back on the cpu/evaporator. Its probably a thermistor like a thermastate and turns the pump off at a certain temp. Nothing you can do about the refrigerent unless you have a vacuum pump and a recharge machine. About 1000 dollars :nod: . But that shouldnt make to much a difference. Cant wait to see the manual you sent me I will look it over for you. If its real problem you may want to look and see if some other people have a solution like a thermastate or something to turn the systme of at a desired temperature. Also be careful not to try this on a real expensive CPU like I said some have killed them from CPU pin rot. And dont worry I know you got a real good deal on this I totally agree with buying it at that price just brand new 1000 dollar units are nuts. Dan

 

Will read through the manual as much as I can but I have HVAC class tommorow. And by the way the only way your going to control temps is by having a thermastate to regulate pump run time when it shuts off at desired temp. Only thing Im not quite sure of is where to find one that reads at -10*C im not sure if they would?

 

 

Already a mistake in the manual those coils arent compressor coils there the condeser coils. And Is that seal string the stuff that looks like double sided tape?

[ooztuncer]

OK, I think I understand the parameters:

 

By factory default computer starts at -33 degrees [equation: -33 (given) = ST1 - P1]

ST1 = -20 (can change the value if I want)

P1 = 13 (can change the value if I want)

 

full fan speed until it hits ST2's value

fan slows down/stops until it hits ST2 + P2 value (can change the both of the values if I want)

 

So right now:

fan starts and runs fully until we got -33 (-33=ST2)

then it slows down until it hits -20 (ST2 + P2 = -33 + 13 = 20)

then it runs fully again until it hits -33 - cyclic)

 

computer idles until -33 (this is not ST2 value, it is just default by factory)

at -33 degrees, it boots-up

 

Now, if there is a way to reduce -33 to something less it might help.

 

Side note: What is -62 reading that I am getting?

[danzgpgt97]

Did you hit the select button? Looks like that may be the place to change the perameters. -60 might be where the guy has it set. Its a cool and simple machine. It uses the reset to start the machine to -33 and then boots the pc. It simple it starts at -33 drops to -20 cyles the compresor and condesor fan up to -33 and so forth as you know. Looks like you have control over the fan. i dosnet really clarify to much becasue it says nothing about the compressor which actually does everything. The fan is what removes heat from the condesor. I dont htink it would work to turn the fan down becasue you still need it to remove enough heat to turn to a liquid. It has to be a compressor cycling thing. I will look at it more tommorrow. Sleepy time now. Mybe it will make more sense for you tommorow after some sleep. See yah. Dan

[ooztuncer]

Thanks Dan - i have couple of more hrs before the bed (4 to 5 hrs sleeps are the best)...

[danzgpgt97]

OK it looks to me like you change the fan speed by lowering the SP2 function by hitting select and then using the arrows to decrease it. Change the SP2 and the P2 they describe and that will cause the fan to come on at like 0 degrees or something and quit when you reach -10 or whatever. Try setting the output 3 SP2 to -15 and the p2 to 10. That should work good. Let me know remeber I cant see anything. Dan