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Shadowdogg

Help again please

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Hi,

 

the only connection i dont have is the 4 pin drive connector and thats because i dont have any more connections from my PSU as its already in the drive itself.

 

But surely that wouldn't affect my hard drive from working?

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Do they sell Dell ready-mades over there? I have read this entire thread now as it is merged together and get a sense of dis-orientation on your part. Could be wrong since this is print not voice and sometimes that creates gaps in communication. Regardless, am going to make one more 'text' stab at digging out of this and IF it will not work> you need to rma the board, memory, power supply and hard drive and contemplate you another route of passage to computering; I fear.

 

DO NOT jump around but follow as closely as I am able to write this in steps. Jump around and you will be off the path again. NOTE: make no plug or unplug changes of components into or out of the board without having power supply completely unplugged from a/c input or wall plug.

 

A long way around clear cmos and prepare for booting.

Remove power from the system. Pull cord from wall if you must. Or from rear of power supply.

 

Remove the battery.

 

Move the CMOS jumper to clear postition (pin 2 and 3).

 

Move the speaker jumper to on position. Page 7 (?) quick start manual.

 

Make sure you have a wired keyboard plugged into the PS2 port. Not USB in other words. USB to PS2 OK.

 

Leave the CMOS jumper at clear for at least 30 minutes.

 

Put ONLY one ( 1 ) stick of memory in ORANGE slot closest the top edge of motherboard.

 

Replace the battery.

 

Set the CMOS jumper back to normal (pin 1 and 2).

 

Press and hold down the "Insert" Key on the keyboard.

 

Apply power to power supply again WITH "Insert" key still pressed down.

 

Press the start/power on button on the rig. WITH the "Insert" key still pressed down.

 

When you hear the beep from the speaker. NOTE: on RDX-200 you may not hear beep but see action on the monitor screen and then>> Release the "Insert" Key and quickly press the "Delete" key and enter the bios and load optimized defaults. Save and Exit bios and reboot to enter bios to make necessary adjustments.

 

This is ALL done with only a single stick of memory. DO NOT ADD anymore sticks YET!!!

 

Now you have optimized defaults loaded in bios hopefully. Go back in bios and turn off any Raid you see. Sil3114 for sure. You will be trying NVraid controller as single drive controller. Sata port #3. Turn off un-used IRda/serial and Lan not used. Do not enable raid anywhere. Check that drive for a jumper to allow jumpering for 1.5Gbs setting. It is better if set to 1.5Gbs since Seagate gives problems and their newer drives have a jumper setting for 1.5Gbs transfer setting. That jumper drive setting can be made during CMOS clear above since the power to power supply and board "should" be removed. But I put it here to make sure it is done.

 

Ok now all un-necessary off in bios and drive to 1.5Gbs as we hope there is a jumper. Do this in bios.

Bios > Advanced BiOS Features > (scroll down) Delay For HDD (Secs) > Enter > SET to 4 > Enter > Save and Exit .

Some drives spin up slow and are not spun-up and ready to be recognized when the bios is ready to 'read' them.

 

Oh by the way you should have turned OFF that dang booting LOGO in bios so you can see what in the world is going on. NOW after setting hard drive delay and hard drive jumpered to 1.5Gbs we hope> do you see the sata drive showing up in the bios at the first menu top left. You should!!! Yes or No?

 

If YES, proceed to the link below and follow it for testing the memory and to make sure you have an idea of where the journey leads next. Basic Configuration for WinXP install:

http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showpost.p...04&postcount=49 Mini How to Setup...by Ed...

 

IF NO, then I see only a couple of things left.

1. Sata cable bad.

2. Drive bad.

3. Power supply weak with the load of 7900 video card causing problems with power to drive.

4. Board bad.

 

With those listed 1 thru 4 you see why I said up above that you need follow all the steps exactly and if nothing worked to rma all that stuff and seek another route, because we are thru troubleshooting your current parts. I do all these procedures from memory like the large hand on a clock going to 5, 10, 15, 20 around the dial and in order all the time. Hard to write it down in text form for the un-knowing. Not a writer. Tried though.

 

I do not know anything else. You don't get some relief there; then you need to start rma'ing as I said. I don't like Seagates anyway.

 

EDITTED: You need to print this out for reference as you go step by step for your reference thru the steps. END EDIT...

 

RGone...

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I will try this tomorrow - personally i think its the drive so i have a RMA ready to go.

 

As with the RAM i spoke to OCZ about it and went through the Memtest with each ram stick and the CAS seem to be of slightly different timings which could have contributed to it not woreking.

 

And thanks for the help

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the CAS seem to be of slightly different timings which could have contributed to it not woreking.

 

NOT could but WILL. Luck man.

 

RGone...

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U seem to have to exact same problem as I had.

 

I´ve got 2 solutions for you...

 

1. Hotflash bios with newest driver and be happy.

 

2. Get hold on some really old Amd64 cpu like winchester and try with that.

 

As I can see I had the same problem, except i managed to flash the oldest driver to my bios.

 

2x ram gives 3 red led´s

1x ram in orange slot gives 1 red led wich means it cant boot, only problem solver to that is those two stuff i wrote earlier...

 

Or RMA....there is no other way around if all your cables are attached and all parts work..

 

And here u have a nice picture on a DFI board u can share to your friends and family about "How to remove battery".

And yes, Paint-skills-man is back!

 

(I was THIS close to write "Dont lick here" on the bios chip but I realized that probably someone would try that cous it says not to...)

 

headers.jpg

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Don't lick here!!! Hehehehehe. That is about the funniest thing I have heard. And your logic was probably correct about not saying it; in this day and age.

 

Good freeken picture man. Yours? I want a copy. Thanks man.

 

RGone...

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Don't lick here!!! Hehehehehe. That is about the funniest thing I have heard. And your logic was probably correct about not saying it; in this day and age.

 

Good freeken picture man. Yours? I want a copy. Thanks man.

 

RGone...

 

 

hahaha

 

Nope, google is my friend ;)

 

Just typ ultra-d and "pictures"... :)

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I am having a similar problem. I just recieved OCZ PC4200 Platinum Edition RAM as an RMA for PC4000VX, which was working in dual channel when one stick decided to die. When I put the new modules in, they will not work in dual channel (3 red led's). Only with one farthest from CPU and one in top yellow slot (single channel mode) or with only one in orange slot farthest from CPU. If the modules are together, they need to be run in 2T to make it work.

 

I am pointing my finger at the RAM. I don't believe it has anything to do with hard drive or floppy power connectors, or clearing the CMOS for hours or even days.

OCZ told me to test other ram known to be working in dual channel on my board, but I don't have access to any.

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