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Z3R0-CooL

DFI Expert new BIOS BETA

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Well my expert reports 29c idle 33-34 full load so I think it's close. Also if the sesors are bad on some boards how are they going to make a bios that corrects the setting on every board? I agree they should offer a RMA to those who's boards are reporting 7-10c light but then who's to say your new board won't do the same unless they test everyboard before hand, and then still they have no idea how many boards to get ready or how long the RMA will take by the bottleneck created by mass RMA's. And yeah it is a Ferrari but think about it how many of you have heard the joke yeah I got a Ferrari but it's in the shop. They as well are tempermental as a high matinence gal. Overall they are a great board besides what other board even comes close?

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i agree, but still, i get 16c-18 @ idle, and what can i say, i dont have a temp sensor, you know how much it .s all the cpu fan? goes on and off like a bee, even if i put it on 25/26 sttop/start...

bah.

paying 200$ for this might have been a mistake, should have goen to the sli-dr, or something else.

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yfital....25/26/start/stop? Thats why dude. put your fan at 25 to start up and 75 to stop. That way it will never go off. Unless you think your pc get to 75degrees which is highly unlikely.

 

Guys with the temp rpobe problems....

 

Really if you think you're pushing your temps too high then you probably are and you should have the cooling adequate for the achieved speed. If you have any experience in overclocking you really must have an idea what your system is capable of. If 10c degrees is gonna make or break your system by overheating it, then you best get better cooling or stop what you're doing and come to your senses.

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ah... dude, if i put it on 25 to start, it will only start when im @ totall load, cause my idle temps at 16, and my load at 25...

that aint gonna help me.

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ah... dude, if i put it on 25 to start, it will only start when im @ totall load, cause my idle temps at 16, and my load at 25...

that aint gonna help me.

 

Well 25 is the lowest it will go and if your temps are idle at 16 then you have no worry. That means the fan wont start until your temp hits 25. Y is that a problem?

If you want your cpu fan to be on all the time then y dont you plug it into a socket other than the cpu fan socket.

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it is a problem, because for a 200$ i would like to have a normal speedfan use of my cpu fan, and other socket means it will run at full rpm all the time, and im watercooling and that really aint what i want, and dont forget that i cant even use a nice and handy program like speedfan as the last time i ran it my whole mobo just died. (and dont tell me i cant use the switch, 1 dead board is 'nuff).

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"I agree they should offer a RMA to those who's boards are reporting 7-10c light but then who's to say your new board won't do the same unless they test everyboard before hand" Quote

 

Surely they will be testing all of their boards before hand, isnt that the last stage of manufacture? A product sold, should in UK law be "fit for purpose" if it has a temperature function listed, it must work, simple.

 

I thought that this was just an issue with Opteron's on Experts, and as such an unsupported cpu should receive no support for this problem, BUT if this is a generic issue with all expert boards and cpu's, DFI should have the balls to own up that there has been an error, either recalling or offering some kind of fix.

 

On another vein, I found some discussion on a different forum about a program called 'amd central brain identifier', this program gives as one of its parameters an offset of temperature on mine this did give a -10*c. However I have no idea where this figure is generated from, it maybe just a database for example the chip is identified as an opteron so that means the temp must be 10*c out.

 

As far as i know though there is only the temp sensors on the motherboard? The chip doesnt have one internally does it?

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:confused: :confused: :confused:

it is a problem, because for a 200$ i would like to have a normal speedfan use of my cpu fan, and other socket means it will run at full rpm all the time, and im watercooling and that really aint what i want, and dont forget that i cant even use a nice and handy program like speedfan as the last time i ran it my whole mobo just died. (and dont tell me i cant use the switch, 1 dead board is 'nuff).

 

Seems like you just need something to complain about to me. IMHO

In one statement you say you cpu fan is coming on and off and in the next you say you'reon water cooling.

If you're water cooling then why worry about a fan that s non existant. you dont even need it. Hmmm water cooling with a cpu fan. lol. I'm confused. :confused:

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I love my expert, it has been the best mobo ive ever owned..

As for the temp problems, I dont really care, I load at 46 so I dont know if thats 56 or 7 more or wut?

I honestly dont care either, it runs great and Im not changing anything then :P

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ah... dude, even if the cpu block is cooled, something needs to cool the mem, and everything around the cpu, and ya, it makes a difference, espcially with VX mems with 3.5 volts running through them.

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I see. So you're saying that you are running a case fan off the cpu fan power plug.

 

I run a whole separate 500watt psu for my memory fan, case fans and water cooling setup. I use a rheostat to manually control the fan speeds. Turn the speeds up when i'm overclocking (cause i crank my utt rams with 3.65 and they get hot) and down when i want silence. This way i give the board, cpu and ram the purest power i can from my Enermax 600watt psu. And the board or the main psu dosnt have to run all that crap. Keeps the voltage stable.

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MVC-023S.JPG

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