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some (obvious?) build tidbits


Guest Marcello_merged
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Guest Marcello

Hi,

 

Many thanks to all who have contributed to the threads here, especially the tutorials by Ed Jacobsen, Angry_Games, etc. which helped me greatly. Though I did my first build five years ago, a lot has changed and the information available here showed me things to avoid and things to do, as well as helped me come up with the new components (simply by reading the signatures!)

 

A few tidbits of my own:

 

As five years ago, I set up the basic components outside the case, to test and make sure everything was working, including installing Windows on a hard drive.

 

This time, I started by first checking the power supply. Though not documented, the Powerstream doesn't show signs of life until it is plugged into the motherboard (and has an electrical load). Otherwise its fans don't spin.

 

Installing the heatsink requires some pressure on the clips. I did a test run of it with some paper over the CPU slot, to get an idea of the amount of pressure required. Then I mounted the CPU and put the compound (Arctic Silver 5, as recommended by Angry_Games in the photo and video tutorial). AVOID pressing down the heatsink on the CPU. Thermalright's documentation (XP-120) calls for setting two clips on one side, then two on the other. This puts a lot of lopsided squeeze on the CPU. Angry_Games suggestion to set clips diagonally is excellent.

 

After a basic post, a second memory chip install, a memory test, a CD drive and HD drive attachment, a Windows install with basic settings (all outside the case), after some verification that all seemed okay, then I took everything apart and mounted in the case.

 

On the Thermaltake Armor, it was necessary to install the power supply before putting in the motherboard. The Powerstream also required temporarily removing the top ports as well, and will not allow the (extra supplied) top-facing case fan to be mounted. So you will only have 3 fans. However, air flow still works very well.

The cases's rear port panel must be swapped with the DFI provided port panel. Make sure the tabs are clear of motherboard ports while mounting the motherboard.

The case motherboard tray has 'A's that mark where the ATX standoffs need to go.

You will need a magnetized screw driver to fix the central motherboard screw under the heatsink. The screwing must be done at an angle.

 

The Thermaltake has an extra Firewire port at the top. Mounting this on the mothboard chip connector is a pain, as each pin has it's own plug. It is best to group the plugs together as if it were a single plug. You will need the Thermaltake manual AND the DFI manual to properly orient the pin plugs.

 

The lower drive cage just barely swings around the XP-120 heatsink. It's best to install all the hard drives in front first, despite the depth of the case.

 

The upper drive cage by the power supply can be the last thing installed.

 

That's it for now.

 

Marcello

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Hi,

 

 

The Thermaltake has an extra Firewire port at the top. Mounting this on the mothboard chip connector is a pain, as each pin has it's own plug. It is best to group the plugs together as if it were a single plug. You will need the Thermaltake manual AND the DFI manual to properly orient the pin plugs.

 

I know how you feel on the loose connectors. When I have loose connectors(USB or Firewire), I scrounge through my parts bin for a 10 pin connector & then rewire it according to both manuals. It is a whole lot easier to plug in one connectors than 9 or 10 loose ones.

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