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Sorry I had no time to answer before.


So you would recommend the Lanparty Ultra-D to me?


because in other boards they said that this mainboard is very difficult and makes a lot of anger...

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DFI main board begs the following questions:

1. Do you like tweaking hardware settings to optimize peformance to your individual liking? If yes, I recommend DFI.

2. Are you somewhat capable of basic software/hardware troubleshooting? If yes, I recommend DFI.

3. Do you want to overclock your equipment to squeeze the most dollar for performance ratio? If yes, I recommend DFI.

4. Do you enjoy being a part of a great community of tech-heads? If yes, I recommend DFI.


If no, I recommend Asus mobo as alternative (or what ever brand you otherwise prefer).


Ps. I use budget PSU but do not run two DVD drives and two harddrives so I am not worried about exceeding rated wattage. Enermax Liberty line has recieved great praise and will meet all expectations.


Invest in a digital multi-meter to monitor real voltage output from your power supply if you plan on a non-DFI qualified PSU.

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Thank you for your answer!


to the points:


1. yes i want to tweak my system but only my CPU (X2 3800+ from 2 GHz to 2.4 GHz) first and later i will buy other RAM modules and clock them to 240 MHz (1:1)

but at the moment i want to try my MDT modules at 200 MHz with a RAM divider...

but is your power supply also able for overclocking?


2. yes i think that i am capable of basic software/hardware troubleshooting but i think this BIOS and some of the problems aren't really BASIC...


3. yes


4. yes, i have to say that this is the best community of hardware(mainboards) i got to know (ok, the MSI board was German but they couldn't really help...)



i have another question: in nForce2 times ABIT also had very good mainboards and now they have the ABIT FATAL1TY AN8 but why isn't it recommended ?

is the DFI LANPARTY Ultra-D better?



which voltage i shall measure? in windows all the voltage lines are correct (within +/- 5 %) and the beQuiet power supplies have some good/positive reviews...

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The only real reason you might need for checking the voltage rails on your PSU would be if you are having boot problems, instability problems etc. Otherwise you can pocket the change for the digital mm purchase (but they do come in handy for alot of other things too, other than checking the voltage on your power supply rails!)


Check out the NF4 recommended power supplies listing here at the Street and find one that you can purchase in Germany. The minimum requirements are a high quality psu, with good efficiency, stable voltage rails at idle and load with the following; 480W minimum total output with at least 26A on the 12V rail. Anything less and you risk problems. And unfortunately, if you do have any problems with a psu that doesn't meet those minimum requirements, the folks here will be the first to point out that your power supply you've chosen doesn't meet the minimum requirements.


And I can whole heartedly recommend the DFI NF4 Ultra-D motherboard. It is SWEET!

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I just ordered a DFI NForce 4 Ut-d for my most recent build. I have 2x1gb sticks of corsair value select, a thermaltake 430watt silentpower ps, ATI x850 xt, and opteron 165. The system posts most of the time with no issues, and even shows both my sata maxtor and ide maxtor drives in bios. When I got to install windows however, even though I can see the hardrives, it always says there is no windows partition on the hd it can use. This is true even when I manually create a new partition, and I even created an ntfs partition on the sata drive in a different pc before putting in back in this rig, and still no go. Furthermore, sometimes on reboot the system will make a long beep followed by a shorter, and nothing will show on the screen. I'm guessing the mobo is defective and have it packed up for rma. If anyone knows something i may have somehow overlooked, please let me know. Thanks


Put your hardware in the sig so we can see it even if you haven't purchased yet.

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First, you should start your own thread so you may be better helped.


Second, you need to read the rules and create a signature so you may be better helped.


Third, Maxtor drives have issues with the nf4 chipset. A fix has been issued. Search and you will find lots of info about it.


Here are two build guides.








If you haven't qualified your RAM as working you should do it. Before I installed the OS I made sure my RAM was happy.


Use the built in Memtest which is embedded in the bios. It is located in the "Genie" section of the bios and needs to be enabled. It will run automatically after post.


Test ONE stick in the orange slot farthest from the CPU. Do 20 passes of test 5. To do this, when Memtest starts press "c", then "1", then "3", then "5" then "enter", then "0".


Repeat the above replacing the "5" with an "8" for 20 passes.


Then 5 full passes all the tests. Just let it run after boot.


If no errors are reported switch the stick with the other stick and repeat tests.


If both are good try both sticks in the orange slots and repeat the tests.


If everything passes you know your RAM is not defective but may still need tweaking.


If single sticks error try testing with DRAM voltage at 2.7 and 2.8.


If single sticks pass but errors in dual channel (both sticks in orange slots) test again with voltage at 2.7, then try 2.8.


If all of that doesn't work and you are getting errors look in the Stock Speed Database for your RAM and use those settings, repeating the tests above.


Stock Speed Database is here:





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After I unneccesarilly returned some working stuff plus the value select that was causing errors in memtest, and ended up with what you see in my sig (I already had the 6800 gt and antec psu sitting around) I discovered that the issue was having two harddrives installed while trying to install windows. I found that answer somewhere on this forum, so thank you to the person who provided it :)

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