No offense but I'm seriously not liking this Mobo!!!

[Angry_Games]

Quick question: will older LanParty nF4 BIOS work w/ the Expert?

please DO NOT USE ANY NON-EXPERT BIOS ON AN EXPERT BOARD OR YOU WILL KILL IT

[Kemp]

for overclocking...it is kind of foolish to think that just because you got X-amount of overclock on one board, that some other board will give you much more (or much less, or any for that matter).

 

I'm not trying to be rude, only realistic. The NF4 Expert board DOES overclock better than any previous board, but you cannot just jam your hw in and expect it to instantly clock.

 

As I've stated in many previous posts, and has been plastered all over XS forums, the Expert board is a very different animal than the non-Expert, and it all boils down to DRAM Drive Strength and DRAM Data Drive Strength values.

 

If you are having troubles overclocking, you need to really focus on those two settings and try every possible combination. I guarantee if you find a sweet spot for your particular RAM, you will come to realize just how good this board can overclock.

 

But again, it is foolish to assume that just because the hype about the board says it will overclock until your nose bleeds UV colored blood, that you can just instantly overclock according to the hype.

 

as for the temp sensor issue, I have and will again suggest that you write to [email protected] and ask them once again to correct this issue. We have asked many times and no fix as of yet, so that is the only thing Rgone and I and others can suggest.

 

As for SATA II, I have seen no problems with SATA II on this board so if you have, please let me know (I am running 3x80GB SATA II RAID-0 on my main Expert NF4 right now with zero issues, and have seen no issues in the forums other than a few minor issues that were easily corrected with some help)

 

Angry Man, I did not go indepth into my bios settings becasue i was lazy forgive me. I have used several settings even one of yours from teh overclocking database. As for teh Sata II problems I cannot install windows onto a 150G Raptor, I have tried slipstreaming the the nv files into windows. I always get a BSOD when it says "Starting Windows". It is ussually a memory error but Just last night I ran memtest for 12 hours which equalled 23 completed test , 0 errors. I am all out of Ideas as I have tried everything i could find in the forums.... everything.

[coolmonk]

I would say RMA the board to eliminate it (or validate it) as the problem

 

if you get a return board that does the same exact thing, you can rule out the board and start looking at your other components (specifically that VX if you are using high vdimm voltage, or possibly something else, or possibly the timings/config you are using)

 

Well, I've tested the VX memory time and time again....Memtest 8 hrs no errors, SuperPi32M 3 times in a row no errors....Prime95 24 hours no problems. As long as the system is "up and running" I experience no instability whatsoever. Let me be more specific with what's happening:

 

Scenario 1: System powers on, all fans spin. After 3 seconds or so the system powers off before Posting.

 

Scenario 2: System powers on, all fans spin. 4 debug LEDs stay solid and then start blinking every 2-3 seconds. The system doesn't power off here but just hangs, not even Posting....no video signal. I know 4 LEDs means system is powered and CPU is not detected, but the CPU works everytime with another ASUS board I have.

 

This leads me to believe that the board is faulty. I've owned 4 DFI boards before (all were great with no problems whatsoever) and so I hope a new Expert mobo will fix all issues. I also hope the incorrect temperature readings can also be fixed via a BIOS update (is this even possible?). My temps are currently reading approximately 6-7C lower than actual. I'm supposed to be sitting around 30-31C idle and the Expert reports it at 24-25C.

[Angry_Games]

kemp: we don't generally trust memtest for much of anything these days. Try the test requirements from teh Stock Speed Database / Overclock Database

 

 

 

coolmonk: go ahead and RMA the board to eliminate/verify it as the problem

[MerryOtter]

kemp: we don't generally trust memtest for much of anything these days. Try the test requirements from teh Stock Speed Database / Overclock Database

 

Wow.... don't trust MemTest, Don't use nTune, Don't use CMOS Reloaded... is there ANYTHING on this motherboard which works as advertised?

[SkewdLogix]

I'm running an Expert with absolutely no problems. The first thing I did on the build was to flash to the 12/07 BIOS because of my concerns about some issues that were raised about overvolting of the processor. That went smooth as silk. The only hiccup I experienced was that I initially installed the Plextor 716SA on the SiL 3114 SATA port and couldn't get WinXP to install from there (Later I found out that there is a BIOS selection to change the default setting from RAID to SATA so that is what I have done now). However, at the time, I merely switched the drive to the nVidia SATA port and everything ran perfectly. Install went without a hitch.

 

I was also concerned about the discussions on the Expert under-reporting temps so I installed 6 temp probes. One I installed on the side of the IHS of the processor, one beside the core of the chipset underneath the HS (I replaced the stock HS with a Evercool VC-RE), one on the PWMIC area, one on the RAM, one on one of the video cards, and one on the Raptor. The temps reported in the BIOS are only ~3 degrees C less than those reported by the probes on the PWMIC area and the chipset, and the temp for the CPU is almost identical (mind you, it is on the IHS so is probably under-reporting the temps by a few degrees). So no big deal here either.

 

So my experience is that pretty much everything works as advertised on this board. The issues with nTune and the nVidia firewall ae pretty much moot as far as I'm concerned.

[Guest Dynamic]

Put in your CPU/either one memory module or even try two if the first attempt on one stick doesn't work and put in only one of your GT's for the initial startup and see what happens. Unless you've already attempted it? Did you try running one GT only in either PCI-E slots, like if you don't get video did you try the bottom PCI-E slot? Which RED LED's do you get or get any at all? Get back to me dude, we'll do this one way or another.....okay

[Guest Dynamic]

Just like COOL & QUITE not to be installed or setup when overclocking your CPU/RAM on any DFI board. Actually they do tell you in red not to set this one up if you're overclocking, n/m hehe. Do not question or complain anything that Angry_Games suggests. He's been here along time and he knows what he's talking about. Just don't rely on one test and leave the rest out of the equation. You can try Memtest86 then shoot for PRIME95/OCCT and see what happens. Alot of times people asks why doesn't my windows work correctly even though i memtested my ram for 10hrs and it was stable, i wonder why....hmm... good luck people....

[Slammy]

Are you using the newest BIOS? Your board uses the same BIOS as my Nforce 4 ultra-d and i had the same problem as scenario 2 when i tried to overclock on that BIOS. I would startup my comp and get no video signal, power light on the case would flash on and off very slowly with long pauses, the last LED on the diagnostic lights would also flash and while all this was going on, all my fans would speed up and down. It was very weird. I flashed back to 6-23 BIOS and it hasnt done it since. I have a 3500+venice DH-E3.

 

 

 

Well, I've tested the VX memory time and time again....Memtest 8 hrs no errors, SuperPi32M 3 times in a row no errors....Prime95 24 hours no problems. As long as the system is "up and running" I experience no instability whatsoever. Let me be more specific with what's happening:

 

Scenario 1: System powers on, all fans spin. After 3 seconds or so the system powers off before Posting.

 

Scenario 2: System powers on, all fans spin. 4 debug LEDs stay solid and then start blinking every 2-3 seconds. The system doesn't power off here but just hangs, not even Posting....no video signal. I know 4 LEDs means system is powered and CPU is not detected, but the CPU works everytime with another ASUS board I have.

 

This leads me to believe that the board is faulty. I've owned 4 DFI boards before (all were great with no problems whatsoever) and so I hope a new Expert mobo will fix all issues. I also hope the incorrect temperature readings can also be fixed via a BIOS update (is this even possible?). My temps are currently reading approximately 6-7C lower than actual. I'm supposed to be sitting around 30-31C idle and the Expert reports it at 24-25C.

[coolmonk]

Clearly as previously stated by AG, the Expert does not use the same BIOS as older nF4 boards. My symptoms are not at all the same as what you have described...my fans do not speed up and down, and the power light on the case does not flash off/on.....it's just the debug LEDs that blink at 4 lights. Let me just clarify that out of 20 boots, I will get scenario 2 maybe once or twice. Most of the time, I get scenario 1.

 

Yes, I am using the latest official Expert BIOS 12/7. My system was ROCK-STABLE before on my Ultra-D whether it was stock or overclocked to 3.0Ghz 1.63v. I would normally run it at 2.9Ghz 1.568v w/o any issues. Temps reported on 4 previous DFI boards were all roughly around 31/43, now I'm getting 24/36 on the Expert. Clearly the board has flaws and there are FAR TOO MANY users out there with the same problems so I refuse to believe that I got a bad board. My opinion is that MOST Expert boards have this issue and it needs to be addressed by their engineers.

 

After hours of research and reading last night, I actually managed to find a "solution" to the cold-boot issue. If the computer is already up and running and I perform a restart from Windows...all is good. However, if I power it completely off and turn it back on I get scenario 1 (boots for 2 seconds, then powers off). It really surprises me that ExRoadie refuses to admit to the Expert's faults. It is not the fault of my PSU as many others experience the same thing and we all have higher-end PSUs (OCZ 520/600W, PC Power & Cooling 600W, etc). Anyway, the temporary solution to this cold-boot issue is, if I very quickly press and release the power button then the system boots fine. If I even remotely hold on to the power button for half a second, the issue remains. ExRoadie and others "claim" this to be a "switch bounce" issue yet they blame it on other components and not the Expert. I think if this is the case....I wonder why this exact problem never existed before on ANY DFI BOARD!?!??

 

I will not RMA this board for I have a strong feeling the issue will not be fixed with a new Expert (since others have already RMA'd 2-3 times to no success). I will keep the Expert for the next month or two and await any new BIOS updates which I "hope" will address incorrect temp sensor and cold-boot issues. I guess I'll just continue to power up my system by quickly tapping the power button (which is really ridiculous I think...but hey it has not failed on 30 boots yet with this method). If no BIOS updates can fix the issue, I will sell the Expert for an SLI-DR "non-Expert".

 

 

Are you using the newest BIOS? Your board uses the same BIOS as my Nforce 4 ultra-d and i had the same problem as scenario 2 when i tried to overclock on that BIOS. I would startup my comp and get no video signal, power light on the case would flash on and off very slowly with long pauses, the last LED on the diagnostic lights would also flash and while all this was going on, all my fans would speed up and down. It was very weird. I flashed back to 6-23 BIOS and it hasnt done it since. I have a 3500+venice DH-E3.

[palehorse]

A couple of ways you can go about improving your chipset cooling:

 

Ensure video card heat is going out of the case, not back into it. A fan in the side of the case over the cards can help draw that heat out, or you can use something like Arctic Silencers which vent all the hot video card heat out the back.

 

Ensure fresh cool air from the front of the case is supplied to the NF4 area. Use your imagination. No conventional motherboard design can circumvent the need for an adequately cooled case.

Solution 3: Purchase an $8 HSF that just so happens to fit perfectly without any mods whatsoever! This HSF and a little AS5 dropped my chipset temps ~10C! I'm now under 40C @ full load! (granted, i also have damn good airflow throughout the whole case, and two ACNV5r3 Silencers on my SLI video cards which exhaust the hot GPU air out the back of the case, so all of it helps! This HSF did drop the chipset 10C though, so it's worth looking into!)

 

http://www.jab-tech.com/Evercool-VC-RE-Twi...er-pr-2291.html

 

Oh, and besides grossly under-reported cpu temps (~15C low... DOH!), my build has been flawless, and I'm VERY happy with the expert board. I havent had ANY of the other major issues with it and it clocks wonderfully; so the ONLY thing I need fixed is the damn cpu temp sensor. lol..

[RGone]

MANY users out there with the same problems so I refuse to believe that I got a bad board.

You most likely are making a serious error in judgement there.

 

My opinion is that MOST Expert boards have this issue and it needs to be addressed by their engineers.

What revision 'expert' board to you have. From the sides of the PCi-e slots and not from cpu-z program like most do and get only the chipset revision.

 

I have a revision AB0 board that will not 'only' exhibit cold boot necessity to press power button more than once; rapidly and whatever crutch comes to mind but will absolutely refuse to boot but once out of 30 times with an Ocz 600watt ADJ power supply.

 

However that AB0 board will boot cold, warm, hot or other wise every time for me if I swap off the Ocz 600wattt ADJ onto a Seasonic 600watt A2 version; 550watt Sunbeam non-PFC and an engineering power supply that I have been testing. So on a one board sample which is what most of you have at the outset anyway> my start from power supply on but having shutdown from windows and not killing power to the power supply; symptom of having to do dances and voodoo to startup> most certainly changes to perfect booting operation based solely on the power supply I use to power the board. So I am not saying the boards have no issues but I do know the power supply of choice > fixes my issue. So there are likely boards that do not show this problem and certainly will not likely show the problem when coupled with what for 'a board'; is a compatible power supply.

 

Now there does arise the idea that perhaps you might email me as shown in my signature below as I will not post my POP address in these forums nor other personal contact information but will reroute to contact at a more personal level should you wish to speak to me.

 

RGone...

 

 

 

 

Clearly as previously stated by AG, the Expert does not use the same BIOS as older nF4 boards. My symptoms are not at all the same as what you have described...my fans do not speed up and down, and the power light on the case does not flash off/on.....it's just the debug LEDs that blink at 4 lights. Let me just clarify that out of 20 boots, I will get scenario 2 maybe once or twice. Most of the time, I get scenario 1.

 

Yes, I am using the latest official Expert BIOS 12/7. My system was ROCK-STABLE before on my Ultra-D whether it was stock or overclocked to 3.0Ghz 1.63v. I would normally run it at 2.9Ghz 1.568v w/o any issues. Temps reported on 4 previous DFI boards were all roughly around 31/43, now I'm getting 24/36 on the Expert. Clearly the board has flaws and there are FAR TOO MANY users out there with the same problems so I refuse to believe that I got a bad board. My opinion is that MOST Expert boards have this issue and it needs to be addressed by their engineers.

 

After hours of research and reading last night, I actually managed to find a "solution" to the cold-boot issue. If the computer is already up and running and I perform a restart from Windows...all is good. However, if I power it completely off and turn it back on I get scenario 1 (boots for 2 seconds, then powers off). It really surprises me that ExRoadie refuses to admit to the Expert's faults. It is not the fault of my PSU as many others experience the same thing and we all have higher-end PSUs (OCZ 520/600W, PC Power & Cooling 600W, etc). Anyway, the temporary solution to this cold-boot issue is, if I very quickly press and release the power button then the system boots fine. If I even remotely hold on to the power button for half a second, the issue remains. ExRoadie and others "claim" this to be a "switch bounce" issue yet they blame it on other components and not the Expert. I think if this is the case....I wonder why this exact problem never existed before on ANY DFI BOARD!?!??

 

I will not RMA this board for I have a strong feeling the issue will not be fixed with a new Expert (since others have already RMA'd 2-3 times to no success). I will keep the Expert for the next month or two and await any new BIOS updates which I "hope" will address incorrect temp sensor and cold-boot issues. I guess I'll just continue to power up my system by quickly tapping the power button (which is really ridiculous I think...but hey it has not failed on 30 boots yet with this method). If no BIOS updates can fix the issue, I will sell the Expert for an SLI-DR "non-Expert".