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Angry_Games

IHS Removal Tutorial (AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!)

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I guess the little square plastic "cog"(someone else dubbed it this, so I'll use the name) in combination with the zalman just wasn't enough to make things tight. Someone suggested to shave the cog, which I did, but then I broke it...so, turns out, it was a beautiful mistake. I'm using no cog now, which let me bolt my screws as far as I wanted to make things nice and snug.

 

It definitely will make a difference, to anyone that is wondering, but just a warning, be prepared for some McGuyver stuff...lol.

 

Thanks for trying to help me out General and anyone else who replied.

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Just did my first IHS removal on my opty 165. Was nervous as could be sweatin balls as I was doing it.

 

I wound up taking apart a simple cheap single blade bic razor. The REALLY cheap ones....ya know the orange ones that come 100 in a bag for .50 cents or so lol.

 

Anywho, that blade was REALLY thin and flimsy however it turned out to work extremely well. It sliced through the silicon REALLY easily, but since it was so thin it also cut into my finger and that's not even the sharpened end. Finger isn't bleeding, just lots of loose skin from it diggin in at various places.

 

Successful first top removed. I swear my temperature monitor is off but this is what it read:

 

Before IHS removal: 38C idle - 54/56C Full load

After IHS removal: 38C idle(lame) - 44/46C full load

 

So it's approx 10C off at full load, but nothing at idle. I didn't tighten my block down anywhere close to how tight I did it with the IHS on but I don't know how much more I want to tighten it.

 

Temps are definitely better than before according to these readings, but still....this is on water cooling so the temps seem a little whacked. I did see someone else with the CCBWE stepping that was saying theirs was running hot so that could be it as well I suppose.

 

Thank you Angry_Games for that video tutorial as I watched it many many times before attempting.

 

13904462896-thumb.jpg

 

Opty 165

CCBWE 0551WPMW

 

Seems to be a rather mediocre clocker =/ 1.55 yeilded 2.7-2.75 but I haven't tried going further with the IHS off yet since I just completed doing that about 15 mins ago.

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Done...!!! Its quite easy and took 5 minutes..:). You don't even need a sharp blade...but I did cut my finger....lol. Anyway....immediately after 1 hr of use...my temp. has gone down 6 degrees. Needed to mod the bracket and HSF as well. Hope it'll get more down...after AS5 starts workin' properly.....THANKS A LOT ANGRY...!!! I'm installing another rig with ASETEK Waterchill with the X2 3800 in a DFI Expert very soon, probably a week...hope I'll see some great results soon after I undress her as well...;)....Lookin' forward to it patiently......

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Needed to mod the bracket and HSF as well.

 

The Thermaltake Venus 12 is a clip-on if I'm not mistaken. You really shouldn't use a clip-on with a bare CPU as it applies uneven and uncontrollable pressure which can crack the fragile edges of the chip. Did you mod it so that it would be a bolt-on?

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i have an athlon 3000+ venice core @ 2.5ghz fsb 280. my idle temp is about 33c and load is around 49c. how many degrees do you think i will drop without the ihs?

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i just removed the ihs on my athlon 3000+ about 30 mins ago.

temps:

before: 33c/49c

after: 32c/38c

my processor is runnnig very well, it seems to be opening applications faster, and running alot cooler. thanks for the guide

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wow i jsut tok of the IHS. and i have a zalman cu 7000..

the heatsink is loose!!! AHHH its looose man no one told me about this. i have the zalman on as tight as i can but its loose!!!

i think i need a washer or smth..to make the heatsink tighter...anyone got any ideas/

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wow i jsut tok of the IHS. and i have a zalman cu 7000..

the heatsink is loose!!! AHHH its looose man no one told me about this. i have the zalman on as tight as i can but its loose!!!

i think i need a washer or smth..to make the heatsink tighter...anyone got any ideas/

Try standoffs or spacers/washers. It's a bolt-on, right?

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