Anakin_hollan Posted August 7, 2006 Posted August 7, 2006 Tried a 30min CMOS-clear, with no avail. Keeps stopping at 2 lid LED's. If I interpret the Hardware installation manual correctly (Page 67, bottom-halve) It doesn't get past "DRAM detected". I then tried replacing the GPU with an Extremely old but dedicated 2MB Diamond S220 PCI-card, but that had the same result... I reinstated the CMOS-clear situation, and the next time I'll be able to try is tomorrow-evening 8PM, so that'll be 32 Hrs... Just tried booting, but it still doesn't get past 2 lid LED's... I'll just wait for the new PSU to arrive, and have one final go at it. Greetz! Anakin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowboy Posted August 7, 2006 Posted August 7, 2006 When you do try with only 1stick memory in orange slot furthest from cpu.As 2leds indicate memory hangup. Good Luck. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anakin_hollan Posted August 7, 2006 Posted August 7, 2006 When you do try with only 1stick memory in orange slot furthest from cpu.As 2leds indicate memory hangup. Good Luck. Done so uptil now, will do so in the future! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
red930 Posted August 7, 2006 Posted August 7, 2006 Two LEDs is the Video Card. Here is the way to read the Diagnostic LEDs. 4 LEDs on = Power applied, checking CPU 3 LEDs on = CPU has been detected OK, checking RAM 2 LEDs on = RAM has been detected OK, checking VGA 1 LED on = VGA has been detected OK, entering BIOS 0 LEDs on = System has booted to the Operating System. As long as you are in the BIOS including running memtest from the BIOS option, there will be one LED on. Example: If you are getting 2 LEDs on, it means the rig is having trouble detecting the Display Adapter. The lower(PCI) Amber LED is the 5VSB indicator. The upper Amber LED is the RAM voltage indicator. Once the rig has started and been shut down the RAM LED will go out until the PSU is power cycled. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReelFiles Posted August 10, 2006 Posted August 10, 2006 LMFAO @ you sig, that's sweet. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anakin_hollan Posted August 11, 2006 Posted August 11, 2006 Just tried booting, but it still doesn't get past 2 lid LED's... I'll just wait for the new PSU to arrive, and have one final go at it. Greetz! Anakin Well, that made my day. Hell, it made my MONTH!! I plugged in the OCZ PSU, and it booted first time!! Remark: It "walked through" the 4 LED-rail 3 times over before displaying POST?? After rebooting twice Windows even displayed 2 cores instead of 1 (I replaced the Opty 148 with an 4800+ remember?). At all stock and auto, it ran through SuperPi 1M and 2M in 35 and 82 secs, against and 51 and 118 secs on my Opty at stock speeds... Glad to say it seems like it's only been the PSU that kicked the bucket!! Anakin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spdinny Posted September 20, 2006 Posted September 20, 2006 The capacitor goes in parallel with the power push button switch (ie., across the terminals). If you can put the capacitor wires into the top of the MB push-on connector(s), you don't have to modify any wiring. Depending on how much room there is in the top of your connectors, you put the connectors on and then push the capacitor wires down from the top into each pin of the connector (along the wire that's already in the hole) as far as they will go with the object of getting the wires down in contact with the pins on the MB. If you're successful, you can short the cap wires to start the system (as a test). I have a spare MBlaying around, if I also have a cap laying around maybe I can take a picture if this isn't clear. Let me know... I would love to see a picture of this fix or a link to a picture Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchie Posted September 20, 2006 Posted September 20, 2006 There's actually a photo in this thread: http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showpost.p...6&postcount=313 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spdinny Posted September 21, 2006 Posted September 21, 2006 Thanks Frenchie: The picture helped, I'm still a little confused. The "extension wire" is a spare "hdd led" from an old p.c. The "power switch" is from the case. i can't see the .22 capacitor What is connecting them in the picture, It looks like a female molex connector? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchie Posted September 22, 2006 Posted September 22, 2006 The capacitor is the green thing that looks like a chicklet next to my fingers. It has two leads that come off of it. Those get plugged into the female power switch connector (one lead in each hole of the connector), which is part of the case. The extension cable has one end that is female and one end that is male. The female end is exactly the same as power switch lead from the case. The male end has two pins coming out of it. Those pins also get connected to the female power switch connector (Capacitor leads are very thin. So, you can plug the leads and the pins from the extension cord into the same hole of female power switch connector). The remaining female end of the extension cable is what gets plugged into the MB. There are no molex connectors in the photo. The thing connecting the two cables is the female end of the ps lead, coming from the case, and the male end of the extension, going to the MB. The capacitor is in between them, in parallel with the switch circuit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spdinny Posted September 23, 2006 Posted September 23, 2006 Thanks Frenchie, I've got it now. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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