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scottR

NF4 Expert will not cold boot- psu issue?

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I have a PSU (listed in sig) does this PSU have a history of this "switch bouncing" problem??

 

If so i just rma'd my board for the wrong reason... :eek: :eek:

 

:spam: <--- this . is waaaaaaaaaaaay nasty!!!

I don't have any direct reports of the Enermax units exhibiting a problem like that. Mostly they have rail loading issues.

 

There's no telling which unit will exhibit switch bounce without testing with the capacitor.

 

I had one OCZ Powerstream 600 that wouldn't boot an Expert board. I put an OCZ GameXtream in and it's worked ever since. The original PowerStream 600 has been running in an nF4 SLI-DR with no problems.

 

I did have to "fix" a few Antec units. The customer requested the units and every single one needed the "cap fix" to resolve a power on problem.

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I may have found a solution to the cold boot problem, it appeas that the problem is related to switch bounce with the "Power On" switch. The M/B should really filter out switch bounce but it could be related to component tolerences on the board.

 

 

Solution 1 : Momentary press the Power On button really really fast, every time I tried it the PC booted up perfectly.

 

 

Soultion 2 : Solder a a 0.01 uF capacitor across the Power On button or Alternatively push the capacitor leads into the “Power On” header make sure the capacitor leads makes contact with the pins.

 

The first method seems to have not been mention in recent postings. I have a 600W Enermax Noisetaker and a DFI Expert board and have had the cold boot issue since purchasing the board about 3 weeks ago.

 

Trying to find a solution to the problem, I tried method 1 quoted here (rapidly pushing the case switch) and was suprised to find it has worked every time for me. Before either nothing would happen or if the PC had been left off for a few hours it would begin to start then just switch off again. If I then turned the rocker switch off on the PSU until the lights on the board went off, then back on again it would then boot perfectly until next cold re-boot.

 

Not a perfect fix, but it works for me and am very happy with the overclock this board gives me.

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The first method seems to have not been mention in recent postings. I have a 600W Enermax Noisetaker and a DFI Expert board and have had the cold boot issue since purchasing the board about 3 weeks ago.

 

Trying to find a solution to the problem, I tried method 1 quoted here (rapidly pushing the case switch) and was suprised to find it has worked every time for me. Before either nothing would happen or if the PC had been left off for a few hours it would begin to start then just switch off again. If I then turned the rocker switch off on the PSU until the lights on the board went off, then back on again it would then boot perfectly until next cold re-boot.

 

Not a perfect fix, but it works for me and am very happy with the overclock this board gives me.

Same MB, same PS, same symptoms, same work-around.

My son has an enermax liberty 620 Watt modular running his expert -- same symptoms and work-around.

 

As long as the work-around works, I'm not going to try to debounce the switch.

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ex roadie:

 

when i rma'd mine ages i thought it was the psu at fault and was assured by Hiper and DFI it wasnt.

 

but got mine back and it has the same issue, when testing for dfi beofre i rma'd the board the only 2 components left in the mix were motherboard and psu

 

but why isnt it consistent as not everyone with a cold boot issue psu has the cold boot issue?

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Guest mars

Does the cold-boot issue occur when you power the board on via the jumper??

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there is not jumper there is a dedicated power button on the expert board and yes mine does it with that

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Let me be perfectly clear.

 

If you've replaced your motherboard or sent it in for RMA service, the problem is not the motherboard. The issue lies elsewhere and should be resolved accordingly.

 

My turn to be perfectly clear.

 

If I pay for a functioning, high quality motherboard, that's what I expect to have. DFI should have worked out these PSU conflicts before unleashing this product on the public.

This thread now has 5 stars, 24 pages and TWENTY THOUSAND PLUS views, obviously a thread of interest.

Power supplies are a bit expensive, some cost more than the motherboard and it's not easy to just change if one doesn't work.

You bet, I'll RMA a board under warranty (in a heartbeat) if it has cold boot or any other problem that can't be resolved by any other means no matter how many times it's been to DFI.

It's easy to blame this problem on the power supply companies and try to take the heat off DFI.

The easiest way out of this dilemma is to find a fix and make it available.

:cool:

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For everyone reading this thread that does not understand yet?

 

The problem doesn't follow the motherboard.

 

This has nothing to do with DFI or your motherboard.

 

If changing the PSU resolves the issue, it is not the motherboard.

 

If changing the load on the rails resolves the issue, it is not the motherboard.

 

If fixing switch bounce for the PSU circuit resolves the issue, it is not the motherboard.

 

If you send your board in for RMA and it is returned to you, your problems lies outside of the motherboard.

 

DFI has no interest in sending back a board that won't work in the lab. They just don't do it. Every RMA costs DFI money. That's why we try to resolve these issues in the forum.

 

If you would actually read the many posts in the forum about this issue you would see that members have resolved their issue by using one or more of the provided solutions.

 

I don't know how much clearer I can be on this subject.

 

Once again for clarity.

 

IT IS NOT THE MOTHERBOARD!

My turn to be perfectly clear.

 

If I pay for a functioning, high quality motherboard, that's what I expect to have. DFI should have worked out these PSU conflicts before unleashing this product on the public.

This thread now has 5 stars, 24 pages and TWENTY THOUSAND PLUS views, obviously a thread of interest.

Power supplies are a bit expensive, some cost more than the motherboard and it's not easy to just change if one doesn't work.

You bet, I'll RMA a board under warranty (in a heartbeat) if it has cold boot or any other problem that can't be resolved by any other means no matter how many times it's been to DFI.

It's easy to blame this problem on the power supply companies and try to take the heat off DFI.

The easiest way out of this dilemma is to find a fix and make it available.

:cool:

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Stop and go back to the very first post in this thread.

 

If you post with anything that resembles the issues at the top of this thread your post will be deleted.

 

The only valid post below this one will be something that is entirely new and has absolutely nothing to do with the issues covered in the first post.

 

Any new threads started concerning an issue that has been covered will be deleted.

 

ExRoadie

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Roadie,

Deleting posts is a desperate measure.

I'm sure you are tired of hearing about this problem and I would be tired too if I was in your position.

I see no use in posting more about this subject. This is going nowhere.

jp

 

:cool:

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I think Ex-roadie has made it clear that this is a PSU problem and that the cap mod might help your PSU if it is having trouble with multiple power supplies.

 

http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showpost.p...9&postcount=303

 

Do they pay this guy to do this or does he just spew DFI propaganda for the hell of it? It seriously reminds me of Bagdad Bob. After 24 pages of this thread, one thing is clear: Ex-roadie has nothing to offer the many users suffering from the cold boot problem.

 

Try the cap mod... it is easy and might solve your problem.

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