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armygreen11

Voltage change in bios has no effect

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I hear where you're coming from, but I have read in more than one place that the ultra infinity / LPB have a Vcore "droop" problem at higher voltages. I found a mod to correct it that involves replacing some SMD resistors, which I can do, but now that I have the board at a reasonable speed, I'm just going to leave well enough alone for a little while. I would like to know what's wrong with my diode sensor though. Right now with the fan on low, the winbond core temp is 41, the diode is bouncing around between 24 and 30. If I crank my fan up to high, winbond drops to 38, diode bounces between 18 and 30. Maybe the heatsink is pushing on the core in a bad way. I have it bolted down, but it hits three caps on the one side. Thermalright's website says it's compatible though using the neo backplate. Go figure... I'm saving my pennies for a swiftech water cooling kit anyhow.

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Well, I guess I'm only good for questions regarding this topic and/or tributaries of it.

 

Would EMI/E (and the fluctuations of it) have some affect from areas other than the

diode itself, or the change in dissipation from areas surrounding the diode? Of course,

to some degree that ought to be the case and with changes internally to the

electrical switching and varying loads in the core. I also wonder how quickly the

diode's transition/dissipation would be?

 

I would think that pressure which would effect the diode would also effect the core, in

general, as well. I could be incorrect on that though.

 

Once again, there's the question of how the readings are established and how accurate

they would be. I'm hardly an expert regarding that question. Also, with less activity

the diode, and other areas of the core, dissipate rather rapidly(?), hence, the change

in readings?

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I doubt that EMI would be a contributing factor, mostly because I've seen other people's mbm displays with "normal" diode readings (1-2C over the core temp) on this same board. I'm more inclined to beleive that effects from my heatsink mounting are the culprit. I'm going to take a dremel to the heatsink where the caps interfere and see where that gets me. I think this is a problem beyond a sensor or A/D accuracy issue since the readings fluctuate so rapidly. I have mbm set to capture every 2 seconds and every reading is way different from the last in the ranges I noted in my last post. Unless the heatsink weren't mounted properly (possibility) heat dissipation in different areas of the core wouldn't be possible due to the large mass of the heatsink that is (supposed to be) in even contact with the entire surface of the core. This would pretty much average out any differences in heat dissipation between one part of the core and another. If it isn't mounted properly though, this may be a valid theory. More on this after the dremel....

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Well, the heatsink definately fits better, but it had no effect on the diode readings. I did change the fan from the tornado to an 80mm panaflo. Temps increased about 4C in all conditions. Everything is just as stable, but now cpu temps are up to 51C after 9 hours of prime. I can live with that. I was doing some reading about older athlon XP cpu's, and evidently they had problems with the diode when they first came out. I have a week 24/03 barton, so it isn't the newest chip in the lot. Playing with the fan speeds more, I can tell that the diode IS functioning as it's fluctuation range definately increases with cpu temp. One of these days I'm going to pick up a duron or something to stick in the other ulltra infinity I have with the bad SMbus for the wife. When I do, I'll stick it in this board first to see if the diode works.

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I just recieved a used nF2 Infinity and I have the SAME EXACT PROBLEMS!

 

I'm going to try to re-flash the BIOS, and see if that helps.

 

Does anyone know how to clear the CMOS-Reloaded settings?

 

EDIT: I tried Hellfire's 3EG-Rev3 and that was the same way, I'm now trying Shinobi's Exocet 6-19.

 

Here's teh rest of the specs BTW.

 

Athlon XP 1800+ T-Bred

2x 256MB CH-6

Antec 400w PSU (DMM Used to measure rails - all readings fine)

Zalman CNPS-3100-Cu

ATi Radeon 9700 Pro /Arctic Cooling VGA Silencer

80GB Hitachi DeskStar IDE

48x Lite-On CDRW

SB Live 2.1 (I'm going to try taking this out for testing purposes.)

 

EDIT2: With shinobi's BIOS it's the same. I noticed that when applying voltage settings it takes much longer to POST then before (monitor goes into standby for a sec.)

 

The previous owner never had any problems according to him :(

 

 

 

Thanks,

Nick

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ixI think it actually might have something to do with CMOS Reloaded, so I'm contacting Rgone on how to clear it. :)

 

Nick

 

EDIT: I honestly don't think a board can work without an SMBUS.

 

Plus, it works.

 

smbus_thumb.jpg

 

Click thumb to enlarge. It has it's own IRQ, etc.

 

CPU-Z read's the SMBUS, it's not broken! I have a deep feeling it's the CMOS Reloaded. Both our boards were bought used. That means that the person before us' CMOS Reloaded config's were on there, and cannot be cleared without the proper tool (which is not given out to the public.)

 

So, that leads me to my conclusion that the SMBus is NOT to blame, but CMOS Reloaded.

 

EDIT2: The SMBus also reports all temps, readings, etc. If this were broken NONE of that would work. Not voltage readings, fan readings, etc.

 

Pic to prove:

 

smbusproof_thumb.jpg

 

This further supports my conclusion.

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Yes but you can load default values to each of the 4 cmos reloaded sectors and that will overwrite what is there. Been so long since I messed with these things.

 

RGone...

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Tried that. Cleared CMOS and "Backed up" the settings in all the configs. It's weird, when I change voltage settings it takes longer to post than before, like it's loading a CMOS Reloaded config cause it thinks somethines wrong or something....

 

EDIT: Swapped out cpu for 2000+ Pally and RAM for 1x 512MB Centon, same problems persist. :sad:

 

Nick

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