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High Temps with Opteron&Water?


Indyxc

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My cooling:

Swiftech MCW6002 waterblock

1/2 ID lines

Quiet One 300lph pump

Boneville Heater Core with 2x120 Panaflo fans

 

Here is the picture of the setup, except all new compter parts, cooling is the same:

http://www.ocforums.com/attachment.php?att...tid=35533&stc=1

 

Idle is around 30, and load is 38-40.

 

I was searching around and I noticed most of you guys are running mid 40s on good air. And idle is around low 30s.

 

Mine doesn't seem right? Seems a bit high. I investigated, and the water/waterblock don't even get warm when the cpu is under full load. As a matter of fact, I took off the waterblock right after a prime 95 run, and the CPU was barely warm.

 

So how can the load be 38-40?

 

Also, I'm running the 3-10 bios that default on the motherboard. Does the newer bios report lower temps?

 

Indyxc

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Well the temps above were stock.

 

The overclocked temps at 2900 are 32C idle, 42 load.

 

I'm using artic silver 5. Applied a small bb size in the middle.

 

I'm thinking my board isn't reporting the temps accuratly, because I touch the back of the board, and at 40C you'd think it'd be warm, but it isn't even warm.

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Assuming that the waterblock is sitting correctly, and the thermal paste is decent (and has been spread correctly) it could just be the IHS. I have seen people comparing Opterons to their 3700+s, with both having similair TDP ratings (heat output in W), and with the same cooling the Opterons repeatedly get higher temps. The IHS is mostlikely the same, but the TIM between the proccessor core and the IHS is either of poorer thermal conductivity or has poorer contact with the core/IHS.

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Guest thespin

Normal room temps are around 20-26*C which translate to 68-78*F. The maximum outdooor temperature people live in is around 50*C which translates to 122*F (very dry areas though).

So you see that 40*C which is 104*F is not hot in the sense of being uncomfortable to touch. Processors can run in the 60-70*C range. So your load temps are great. I would worry more about what voltages I am using to run the processor than about the temps.

 

The best air cooling today is almost on the level of water cooling. The benefits of water cooling, besides being a little better, is that it can occupy a lot less space in your case (depending on your water cool system), it's usually much quieter, much less stress on your motherboard from weight, and, to make a pun, IT'S SOOOOO COOOOOOL! But it's a lot more expensive, harder to install, and harder to maintain.

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The best aircooling beats the most expensive watercooling. Purely because the most expensive watercooling is made by koolos, and instead of using copper everything is made out of aluminium and gold plated (ofcourse, they don't mention that its only aluminium often).

 

Probably the biggest advantage of watercooling, besides temps, is that instead of 1 heatsink + tiny/noisy fan per significant heatsource (excluding PSU) you can end up with 2-3 quiet/large fans per the entire system (excluding PSU).

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Try mounting the radiator/fans on the outside. Makes a big difference.

 

Won't make a difference for me, because the CPU is barely transfering any energy to my WC loop. The coolant in the loop is at ambient temperatures.

 

I realize aircooling is effective these days, but I'm running a massive WC setup.

 

The Problem, like I said, is it seems absolutely no energy is being transfered to the WC loop. I suspect a problem with the IHS. In reality, I could probably run a radiator 1/4 as large and the temps would be the same.

 

Anyway, as far as overclocking.

 

I got the Opteron 148 running at 3003, at 1.56v. It quickly need more volts after 2900 to reach 3003.

 

Load temp is now 50-51c, yet again waterblock is cold to the touch. That extra voltage really increased the temp.

 

 

My goal was 3000mhz stable. I suspect the IHS is not transfering any energy to the water block. If it's stable at 3000mhz at 50C load over night in prime 95, you guys think I should bother with the IHS or just leave it?

 

Thanks for the advice.

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My 148 is running real hot to im on a Big T and my load is around 29 to 54 max load with 1.54vcore which is hotter than my X2 at 1.62 you havent got a Cabye 543FPMW by any chance?

 

I'll be buying phase change as of next week my Big T is good just to heavy and these load temps are . me off.

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Rapty-

 

Yeah exactly mine is 148 CABYE 0543FPMW, and it *was* running hot.

 

I took off the IHS, and thus far that has seemed to help 5-10c at load. Don't know exactly how much, but I'll let you know. Still testing. Although it's odd because I didn't notice bad contact with the IHS, so I wonder why our's is running hot with the IHS.

 

 

 

Anyway, for everyone else.

 

I guess the CABYE 148 0543FPMW run hot. I put the stock HSF on it, and at 2900 at 1.45 (what I had it with water). It was idling around 40F (water-32) and when I went to prime 95 it, it went up to 49F, and then prime 95 failed quickly.

 

So, my WC is working well. Decided to take off the IHS, and thus far it seems temps are down 5-10c under load, at least 5C for sure. But need to run more tests. So I guess this stepping is just running hotter than everyone elses.

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Well, I've got some results, without the IHS. It wasn't hard to remove, but I must say the first couple cuts were daunting!

 

Stock Speeds/Stock Voltage

 

With IHS

Idle-31c

Load-38C

 

Without

Idle-30C

Load- 34-35C

 

 

[email protected] Volts

With IHS

Idle-33C

Load-42C

 

Without

Idle-30-31C

Load-35C

 

[email protected]

With IHS

Idle-35C

Load-50-53C !

 

Without

Idle-30-31C

Load- 37-38C

 

 

Conclusion: At stock speeds, and at lower voltages. the difference with the IHS is minimal. But at 3000mhz and 1.5volts the load difference was roughly 12C ! And in the difference between stock and overclocked without the IHS was roughly 3C.

 

And what's even better. With the IHS at 1.5V +104% it wasn't prime95 stable for more than an hour. It's now prime 95% stable at 1.475 volts at 3000 mhz for 4 hours plus.

 

Only concern is I have a swiftech 6002 mounted directly on it right now. I had to take off the yellow bracket, because it was too high, and didnt' allow the waterblock to make complete contact. So it's just the screws and the bracket, but seems to be working ok.

 

I'll be working something out to support it soon. Anyone have any ideas? I was thinking of cutting the yellow DFI motherboard bracket tabs down, roughly the thickness of the IHS, therefore when it's fully tighten onto the bracket it should be level, and not too tight.

 

What have you guys done?

 

Indyxc

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